EPAS Conversion and Clean Tach Output

RocketcarX

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I finally converted the ole girl to EPAS and took the time to tap the Clean Tach Output option the factory left out.
Tackling the CTO at the same time as the EPAS makes sense if you purchase the 2012 EPAS harness Lito recommended because it includes a PCM plug you can steal a pin from for use in your original PCM harness. It is as close to OEM as you can get.
The Clean Tach Output works perfectly, I was able to completely remove the Tach Adapter I was using to send a clean tach signal to my Quick 4 and the ProMax nitrous controller.
As far as the EPAS goes it works perfectly, it is Cadillac easy in parking lots with perfect resistance on the highways. It's pretty cool how you can feel the resistance increase with speed.
Tapping the CAN wires was simple, I went to the PCM to keep everything under the hood, neat and clean.
The Motorcraft wire harness provided everything needed to fully wire the EPAS.

2012 EPAS wire harness part number:
MOTORCRAFT WC-96240

2014 EPAS rack:
DR33-3D070-CD



The green wire that goes off to the left in this picture is the Clean Tach Output I added to the body harness
IMG_9303.JPG

IMG_9308.JPG IMG_9309.JPG IMG_9310.JPG IMG_9312.jpg


 

07gts197

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If doing a coyote swap you wont have to find a place for the power steering pump, alternator and ac compressor to go. Otherwise I guess it could be to declutter the engine bay, free up some (minimal) hp or the cool factor. Oh and Im sure itll help the autocross guys so they dont have to worry about the power steering fluid getting too hot.
 

RocketcarX

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For me the benifit was a few things. If I ever swap in a 351 based combo or a coyote I won’t have to mess with the power steering.
I had a manual rack in the car and it was a little easier to go to this in order to get power steering back instead of messing with another belt, fluids, and the mess of installing it.
It frees up a good 10 horsepower or so and keeps clutter out of the bay.
Not to mention in the future I never have to worry about the pump going out or a leak.
The rack isn’t quite as big as it may look, but it does protrude more towards the front of the car.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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It frees up a good 10 horsepower or so and keeps clutter out of the bay.

There are indeed some benefits from an EPAS conversion as mentioned above but the HP gain is the least of them. At best you'd gain 5rwhp and even less if you have underdrive pulleys.
Decluttering the engine bay by deleting the manual PS pump, mounting bracket, lines, and reservoir is a definite plus.
 

RocketcarX

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There are indeed some benefits from an EPAS conversion as mentioned above but the HP gain is the least of them. At best you'd gain 5rwhp and even less if you have underdrive pulleys.
Decluttering the engine bay by deleting the manual PS pump, mounting bracket, lines, and reservoir is a definite plus.
I dunno, Lito said it was a 10hp difference for him.
The main reason I went to EPAS was the simplicity of the system and like you said decluttering the engine bay, it’s comparable to the manual rack I was running as far as space space savings and was pretty simple to install compared to going back to the hydraulic system.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Is there any weight saving with the EPAS?
Are any other parts in addition to the steering rack and wiring harness required to complete the conversion? Perhaps a shorter drive belt?
I think this thread should be made a sticky so it can be used as a reference for anyone else contemplating retrofitting EPAS to an 05-10 Mustang.
 

RocketcarX

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Is there any weight saving with the EPAS?
Are any other parts in addition to the steering rack and wiring harness required to complete the conversion? Perhaps a shorter drive belt?
I think this thread should be made a sticky so it can be used as a reference for anyone else contemplating retrofitting EPAS to an 05-10 Mustang.
Yes, you need a shorter belt, I have a part number for a shorter belt but it didn’t work for me. The belt I have on the car now is one that was laying around my shop. I need to measure it.
No other parts are needed at all, you just wire it up and bolt it in.
There is zero weight savings, if memory serves it adds about 3 pounds to the car, but I doubt the measures the weight of the fluid, so it may be a wash weight wise.
I’ll go back and add some detail during the day to round out this thread. Lito made a thread with a lot of the same info I’ve provided, that’s how I learned what wire harness to order.
 

RocketcarX

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The twisted pair in the top right corner of this plug, pins 11 and 23 are the CAN + and CAN - respectively.
fullsizeoutput_9db.jpeg

This is how the harness looks after you separate out the 5 wires you actually need along with their plugs. What is needed is the wires off the right of the picture.
IMG_9355.JPG
 

RocketcarX

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The PCM plug you are working with is the center plug of the three that plug into the PCM, I don't think I mentioned that
 

hockeygod

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I finally converted the ole girl to EPAS and took the time to tap the Clean Tach Output option the factory left out.
Tackling the CTO at the same time as the EPAS makes sense if you purchase the 2012 EPAS harness Lito recommended because it includes a PCM plug you can steal a pin from for use in your original PCM harness. It is as close to OEM as you can get.
The Clean Tach Output works perfectly, I was able to completely remove the Tach Adapter I was using to send a clean tach signal to my Quick 4 and the ProMax nitrous controller.
As far as the EPAS goes it works perfectly, it is Cadillac easy in parking lots with perfect resistance on the highways. It's pretty cool how you can feel the resistance increase with speed.
Tapping the CAN wires was simple, I went to the PCM to keep everything under the hood, neat and clean.
The Motorcraft wire harness provided everything needed to fully wire the EPAS.

2012 EPAS wire harness part number:
MOTORCRAFT WC-96240

2014 EPAS rack:
DR33-3D070-CD



The green wire that goes off to the left in this picture is the Clean Tach Output I added to the body harness
View attachment 68247

View attachment 68248 View attachment 68249 View attachment 68250 View attachment 68251


I am a little confused here. I have a 2010 mustang GT is it possible to swap over to epas? If so what parts don't need and where can I source them. My power steering pump just died and now would be a good time to swap I think. Are there any down sides to the swap?
 

RocketcarX

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What are you confused about? The 2010 is mechanically the same as my 08, everything you read here should apply directly.
 

RocketcarX

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I went with an add-a-circuit in the under hood fuse panel, for my car this was easiest.
 

VistaBlueS197

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Which fuse/circuit did you tap into? I’m having trouble identifying a key on circuit in the engine bay fuse box. The MAF is in there and is key on but that wouldn’t be a good choice imo but I suck at all things electrical.
 

eighty6gt

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Here's where I get the accessory trigger for my intercooler pump relay and for my steering rack. I split it and got a weatherpack plug from the junkyard so I could disconnect.

hot wire.png
 

police351

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Hate to resurect an old thread. Anyone know the length of the wiring from the EPAS rack to the battery and what gauge wire that is? Looking at the pic I'd SWAG it at 6-7 feet of 8 gauge? 6 gauge?
 

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