Panhard Adjustment Question..

Forty61

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So I know HOW to adjust my panhard, it’s a f-cking hassle but that’s not my problem.. I noticed about a week ago that my axle seems to be off center, poking just a little further out on the passenger side, I had previously adjusted it and had it perfect but obviously something shifted. My question is what would/could cause the shift?

It’s not a dramatic jump but noticeable if you compare both sides.. I thought I had shocks sagging or something in the rear at first but the geometry would make it poke the other way of it was that so what do I need to check out?
 

GriffX

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Did you rock the body of the car several times left right before measurement? I think there are some millimeter flexibility in the bushings.

I'm not sure, but for exact measurement you need perfectly level ground and the driver seat occupied for weight distribution?
 

pass1over

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parked on level surface?
sometimes I notice one wheel poking out a little then realize i'm on uneven ground
 

Forty61

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Did you rock the body of the car several times left right before measurement? I think there are some millimeter flexibility in the bushings.

I'm not sure, but for exact measurement you need perfectly level ground and the driver seat occupied for weight distribution?

I didn’t rock it side to side but the poke seems to be consistent every time I park it. I had not contemplated the driver being in the car however..

parked on level surface?
sometimes I notice one wheel poking out a little then realize i'm on uneven ground

I checked it on my driveway so it should be level but I may move it around to be sure.
 

Pentalab

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What brand of adjustable PHB did u use ? The BMR on car adjustable PHB is easy to tweak. It's made from DOM tubing. The adjustable portion is made from chromolly steel..and resides inboard several inches. Adjustable portion is on the pass side. I can just barely slide under..and tweak the lock nuts, while a helper tells me how far to tweak. Done on a level surface of course. Bounce the rear end of car up /down several times.

Some adjustable PHB's are at the extreme ends of the PHB..and are a major pita to adjust.
 

Forty61

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What brand of adjustable PHB did u use ? The BMR on car adjustable PHB is easy to tweak. It's made from DOM tubing. The adjustable portion is made from chromolly steel..and resides inboard several inches. Adjustable portion is on the pass side. I can just barely slide under..and tweak the lock nuts, while a helper tells me how far to tweak. Done on a level surface of course. Bounce the rear end of car up /down several times.

Some adjustable PHB's are at the extreme ends of the PHB..and are a major pita to adjust.

Hell, it’s been that long since I bought it I don’t even remember. It was on sale but it’s one with the jam nuts all the way at both ends so it’s a hassle for sure, hence why I was curious if I need to check anything else in particular while I’m under there.. I don’t want to have to do it again if I miss something!
 

Norm Peterson

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Was the car also lowered? If so, how much, and did you re-clock the bushings of any arms that retained the OE rubber bushings? How full was the fuel tank when you centered the axle the first time? More stuff in the trunk now that wasn't there before?

It is geometrically possible for lowering past some point to start pulling the axle back toward the passenger side.


Norm
 

Juice

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I had to tweak mine twice after initial install/adjustment of adj. panhard. It has since remained centered even after several track days w/slicks.

And yes, uneven surface can make it appear the rear end has moved.
 

Forty61

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Was the car also lowered? If so, how much, and did you re-clock the bushings of any arms that retained the OE rubber bushings? How full was the fuel tank when you centered the axle the first time? More stuff in the trunk now that wasn't there before?

It is geometrically possible for lowering past some point to start pulling the axle back toward the passenger side.


Norm

Car was lowered on Eibach Pro Kit springs a few years back, didn’t have any issue until about 6 months ago and even then it was just super minor but I couldn’t un-see it. Tweaked it in, was great until just recently so I’ll be tweaking it again. No dramatic changes to anything so really scratching my head on it!
 

ChewyR

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Maybe your springs settled a bit. Air pressure low in one or more tires. My driveway is pretty level but not perfect and I can tell a difference between my driveway and my garage.
 

PonyDNA

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I have an '05 S197 GT with the entire Steeda suspension catalog installed, Steeda/D-Spec coilover struts, adjustable camber plates w/#625 rate front springs, strut tower tie bar, lower G-Trac brace, relocated inner LCA pick-up points, adjustable camber plates at the bottom of coilover struts, adjustable anti-roll bar with adjustable end links, anti-roll bar mount frame reinforcements, GT500 FCAs, adjustable chrome-moly upper RCA w/spherical on axle end, adjustable UCA mount, adjustable chrome-moly LCAs with sphericals on the axle end and poly bushings milled out with larger diameter aluminum core added on the chassis side, welded in adjustable axle end LCA pickup points, adjustable PH bar, PH bar stiffener, Steeda/D-Spec adjustable dampers, rear damper upper tie bar, adjustable height #200 rate rear springs, original version (small) Steeda rear anti-roll bar with billet end-links.

My car has the same odd shifts of the axle which was due to the geometry of Panhard bars in general and the way the S197's 3-link works. But mostly I disliked the fact that the car felt different when under power exiting a low speed corner turning left vs right so I installed a Steeda Watt's link which improved the handling feel left or right under power and the axle is always perfectly centered, well give or take a few thou based on the way a Watt's link works anyway.
 

Forty61

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I have an '05 S197 GT with the entire Steeda suspension catalog installed, Steeda/D-Spec coilover struts, adjustable camber plates w/#625 rate front springs, strut tower tie bar, lower G-Trac brace, relocated inner LCA pick-up points, adjustable camber plates at the bottom of coilover struts, adjustable anti-roll bar with adjustable end links, anti-roll bar mount frame reinforcements, GT500 FCAs, adjustable chrome-moly upper RCA w/spherical on axle end, adjustable UCA mount, adjustable chrome-moly LCAs with sphericals on the axle end and poly bushings milled out with larger diameter aluminum core added on the chassis side, welded in adjustable axle end LCA pickup points, adjustable PH bar, PH bar stiffener, Steeda/D-Spec adjustable dampers, rear damper upper tie bar, adjustable height #200 rate rear springs, original version (small) Steeda rear anti-roll bar with billet end-links.

My car has the same odd shifts of the axle which was due to the geometry of Panhard bars in general and the way the S197's 3-link works. But mostly I disliked the fact that the car felt different when under power exiting a low speed corner turning left vs right so I installed a Steeda Watt's link which improved the handling feel left or right under power and the axle is always perfectly centered, well give or take a few thou based on the way a Watt's link works anyway.

I’d love a proper rework of the suspension, a Watts link would be sweet too, but the budget doesn’t quite allow right now so panhard it is!

For the record on this, I readjusted the panhard to center, bounced the car a few times and rocked it side to side. Locked it all down, took a quick spin and it seems to have stayed correct. I did find the passenger side mounting bolt for the panhard a touch loose but not enough to really explain the issue.. so we’ll see how long it lasts this time!
 

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