My Street Car

Anti

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Some more upgrades, making progress little by little. I went to this intake hoping to avoid fuel puddling and match my RPM range when I change valves springs and go to more aggressive cams. Also added an automatic bottle heater for the nitrous system.


I assume you have already accounted for this,
, right?
 

RocketcarX

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I assume you have already accounted for this,
, right?
So, I'm not sure if you have followed this guy before but he is sort of a tool, not to mention he openly admits to using a Mustang dyno and a Dynojet dyno for these comparisons, hardly scientific.
Now, to start with his engine didn't need the FRPP intake, and he did not compare apples to apples by swapping the intake and blaming the charge motion system.
Had he done back to back comparisons with the stock intake using charge motion delete plates on the factory intake you would see the benefit of eliminating the IMRC, instead he changed the entire intake manifold and blamed the lack of charge motion for his poor upgrade choices.
My car is not a regular daily driver, I have 4.30 gears and a 3800 stall converter in a 4r70w transmission. My cams are far more aggressive than the factory cams, I have long tube headers and a full 3 inch exhaust, along with a progressive nitrous system that adds more torque than any form of boost is capable of per horsepower.
The youtube tech has no idea about how to upgrade a 3v, only touting "stages" which don't exists and referencing science that isn't actually science.
I added the manifold last, after I had far more into my engine and drivetrain than this guy with his basically stock Mustang.
I also mentioned I am trying to eliminate fuel pudding and improve nitrous distribution, this is a concern when you are doing what I am at this level.
 

Anti

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Lol, a yes would have been enough. I was just curious overall. The charge motion plates seem the be important for fuel mixture and I don't really know when it is a good time to ditch it.
 

RocketcarX

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Lol, a yes would have been enough. I was just curious overall. The charge motion plates seem the be important for fuel mixture and I don't really know when it is a good time to ditch it.
I could have said yes, but then you don't learn anything or understand the logic that led me to my decisions with my upgrade path. A simple yes would endorse the flawed logic in this Youtube tech's video, he is fairly typical of a "car guy" who knows just enough to be dangerous.
They aren't an issue with a regular bolt on car, once you go to a power adder they become an obstruction to airflow.
The charge motion system has nothing to do with fuel mixture, and has near zero effect on torque and horsepower production on a stock engine, from what I understand they have more to do with emissions in some fashion.
I removed mine so they don't come apart and wind up being sucked into my engine, or cause the nitrous/fuel mixture to puddle, I had the stock intake with delete plates for a long while before I went to the FRPP Intake manifold, I went to the FRPP intake manifold to enhance nitrous delivery.
Most guys pick up 2-6 horsepower with a stock intake and installing charge motion delete plates, no loss of torque. They require a proper tune to compensate for their removal of course, so before going to delete plates make sure you have your tune lined up.
I realize text makes this seem like I'm being aggressive or "harsh", I'm not, lol. I'm just passing information.
 

RocketcarX

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Added a billetIMG_8620.jpg bottle bracket to make bottle changes easier, was getting tired of scratching the the bottles up prying them out of the strap style mounts I had.
 

RocketcarX

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Check this bad boy out! I already have -8AN lines from the pump to the rails, so all I have to do to make my fuel system a return set up is swap this regulator/filter assembly out with my current filter and add a return line to my fuel pump hat. Of course there is a wiring change but that is simple too since I already have a relay from the S&H wiring upgrade.
This regulator/filter is preset at 59.5 and presents a much better alternative to the C5 filter set up for a return system.
Super simple, rebuildable and ready to go!
I'm doing this to cure the fuel pressure drop and AFR fluctuation I see on the hit with my nitrous system, should make tuning the car and the nitrous system much easier.
IMG_E8651.JPG
 

RocketcarX

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Its like Christmas all year round as parts show up!! Dialing it in Final?
I’m working towards the car being consistent and safe, the returnless system would spike from 22-70psi in an instant, and visaversa. I’m trying to push the stock bottom end to its nitrous loving limit before I take the forged short block step.
With either set up I want safety in my tune
 
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RocketcarX

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Side note, this type of bypass return system will not work with higher boost levels because you would have no way to raise pressure in relation to boost.
As a NA/nitrous car this isn't a concern for me
 

EBABlacknChrome

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Side note, this type of bypass return system will not work with higher boost levels because you would have no way to raise pressure in relation to boost.
As a NA/nitrous car this isn't a concern for me
Good to know. I really have never studied return and returnless setups. Bolt on shit was easy back when cars were simple. Our mustangs seem complex at times.
 

RocketcarX

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Return fuel system is functioning perfectly, rock solid fuel pressure with a much smaller pressure drop when I hit the nitrous. The rewire at the FPDM was simple since I already have the S&H wiring upgrade.
Adding the return line was the most time consuming part of it since I had to pull the pump and modify the hat for the -6AN fitting. Works perfectly.
IMG_8658.JPG IMG_8659.jpg
 

RocketcarX

95% of my weight is fuel
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o2f74uWMTnam8xNdMjD4bQ.jpg ms4jxHh0RNqlSNTAkB8jhw.jpg raD%DWY3QB6XV6HhmUpeCA.jpg pSkt9BUyS3Sc0GIP3hiSXg.jpg I decided to upgrade to a Walbro 450 pump and ditch the factory fuel pick up for an -8AN fitting so there was no adapter to worry about leaking. I had issues with the fittings leaking at so I went back and added teflon washers that are not pictured in the last photo.
 

RocketcarX

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I've finally finished collecting parts to build my spare short block, now to have the machine work done so I can get the new combo together before spring. I have till April to send my converter back for the free re-stall FTI offers for the first year of ownership so my plan is to be doing testing before that deadline.
56530477995__0819CB96-1249-483F-8485-8AF5C03DF2E5.JPG ZLKpEJ1iRCekhXteeVE7Eg.jpg 68E0G2ItQ3+p2r+g3jlOLg.jpg BQEXjMhFSRaPPRUZOikrUg.jpg 2x80fwWgR+ia3qa4VAwzvg.jpg

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RocketcarX

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I've had it back out of the tank after a couple of months of use with zero issues. It is Aeroquip pushloc stuff
 

RocketcarX

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My Lentech auto valve body with a transbrake finally came in. It's installed and working great! Now to work out launching with the TB and nitrous

IMG_9859.JPG fullsizeoutput_9dd.jpeg 3PFuHgWOSe2qx7ixN5RTbQ.jpg 2fOKs3maSECluQB0JiyGvQ.jpg
 

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