2008 4.6L Unusual Noise Engine Failure

msvela448

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Oil Pressure looks okay to me too.

Have you been able to check for any stored codes? Might point in a direction of the problem.

The other easy things to check with this being an intermittent problem is the connections to:

1. VCT solenoids
2. Cam position sensors
3. Crank position sensor
4. MAF sensor
5. Coil packs
6. Injectors
7. Fuel pressure sensor
8. Throttle body

I'd pull the plug off each sensor / injector / coil and spray both ends with electrical contact cleaner, blow them out with compressed air and reconnect. The crank position sensor in particular is prone to oil seepage.

You can also pull out the MAF itself and spray the electrical contact cleaner through the slots to clean off an oil and debris from the filament / heater wire inside. Be gentle with this though. No compressed air, just blow on it to dry.

I also noticed your first post said you deleted the charge motion plates... If this was recent, or close to when this problem started... Have you checked for a vacuum leak? Maybe a gasket got torn or pulled out if its groove when the intake manifold was reinstalled. Spray some starting fluid or carb cleaner in the area where each intake runner meets the cylinder head to see if the idle changes. If idle speed goes up when you spray it you have a vacuum leak.

If these things do not do the trick you might need to pull the valve covers and make sure the reluctor on the front of the cam phaser gear is still attached and / or not loose, and the coiled spring between the reluctor and phaser is not broken.

After all of the above you might be into checking all the timing components... Pulling the front cover and checking: Timing Chain tensioners, VCT valve bodies and gaskets, cam phasers, crank reluctor wheel, etc.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Jericho

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Had the car out early this afternoon running errands. Probably 1.5hr total drive without issue.

I guess we will see.
 

Marble

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Minor update with potentially relevant question.

First, had the oil pressure tested today but unfortunately I don't have the numbers available to me right now, Mostly looked spec, roughly 75 psi, peaked to 90 during start but I do know that there was one reading ~ 2000 rpm when warm where the pressure dropped to 20 psi. Can and will post the complete results tomorrow when I have access to them (forgot at work).

It occurs to me that I had my oil changed the day before Thanksgiving and began experiencing the issue within 100 miles of that change; used 5w20 full synthetic.

My question is this, could a shoddy oil change produce a situation where I have pressure problems? i.e. Wrong filter/incorrect filter install, jarred or displaced sending unit, etc?

My apologies to those of you who are regularly checking this thread, I had intended to have functional data to provide you by this evening, but a brainfart derailed that plan.

Also, to Marble: You're indisputably correct but I sometimes have to weigh my lack of knowledge against the cost of swapping components as a means of troubleshooting; I know it's not ideal but I really am trying to learn where and when I can. People like you are helping guys like me learn to keep my car on the road.

Once again, my sincere thanks.

Well thank you! I only have the advice because of retarded things I have done to my own car. My biggest teacher on my car is failure and any knowledge i have to share, I'll share.

In my Haynes manual at home it has a chart saying what thr oil pressure should be at start up, idle etc. 20 sounds low but im not sure.

I do know at start up the oil is bypassed through a high pressure bypass designed to let cold oil flow through the motor until its warm. The bypass opens at a certain temperature and then the engine operates normally.

Be patient and keep looking for a solution to the problem. Hopefully it's an extra vehicle.
 

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