Rub after new wheels/tires

BMR poly bushing arms for the win. A little more road noise, but a more solid ride.

redfirepearlgt said:

BMR poly bushing arms for the win. A little more road noise, but a more solid ride.

Click to expand...

Just make sure that the poly parts are no longer than the metal sleeves that go inside them - you don't want to be "wasting" any installation torque compressing the poly instead of developing clamp load in the inner sleeve. As side benefits, it'll probably ride a little nicer and the poly will be far less likely to develop squeaks.


Norm

^^^ Excellent advice. The bushing sleeves in the BMR product are larger and provide a heavier surface area to apply the 129 ft/lb torque rating during assembly. I purchased an inferior design by another company some years ago not knowing at the time what I was getting. The sleeves in those bushings were cheap. One side actually crushed under torque during installation and I had to put hte stock LCA's back in. I just threw them away. I bought BMR, saw their design upon arrival and have used them ever since. METCO also makes some nice stuff for the record to show I am not completely partial and biased.

That does seem to make sense as the noise may continue in short burst after a particular hard bump. The UCA definitely had cracks in it, I really have to take another look at the LCAs to confirm.

For the LCAs, do you guys recommend poly bushings, on car adjustable? For all those parts, it's quite a bit of cash, so I want to do it right.

I run fixed on the lower and adjustable upper. Poly bushings will generate more road noise just so you are aware. They will also transmit noise form the differential as well.

When I put my 13 back to stock (left the aftermarket springs and adj. panhard on it) and drove it 6.5 hours to trade on my 14 auto, I had forgotten how quiet the car was in its stock condition in comparison. Any time you modify a car for improved handling/traction through suspension improvements you will be making things more solid and road noise, and NVH may be more noticeable.

Hi Guys,

I recorded the noise this week by putting my phone in the console. It's about halfway through the video (got stuck behind some slow vehicles). You may have to turn the volume up.

Let me know what you think.

2010GlassGT said:

As a basic idea (and I know this is not very scientific) I measured from the ground to the wheel well lip (car sitting on the ground). Rear driver side was approx. 29" and rear passenger side was approx. 28". Front sides are equal at about 28". Is it possible the axle is bent on the passenger side? Wouldn't it be that the axle was bent upwards on the passenger side and have the higher height? Sorry for not mentioning this before.

Click to expand...

Just reading through this thread, I think this is your problem right here. One inch difference in ride height left to right is huge. And no, if the jack fell on the right side and bent the axle tube upward, that side will sit lower not higher. The wheel will be sitting in a more "compressed" position (the axle is bent upward) and therefore the right side will be sitting lower.

All this talk of bushing materials, LCA, UCA, etc. is interesting but I don't think it will cause the rubbing you are experiencing. I also have 275/40/18 square and as oldVOR and others have said, tons of room with this setup. That's not your problem.

Good luck!

This is the BMR non adjustable LCA's I use on my 2010. 1.25 x 2 boxed construction.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=156&superpro=0

DON'T mess with the cheaper BMR version of their LCA's. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1280&superpro=0 These use smaller 1 x 2 boxed construction.

Here is the mating BMR UCA mount I use. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=160&superpro=0

This is the adjustable BMR UCA I use on my 2010. Tubing is DOM. Adjustable portion is Chromolly steel. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=163&superpro=0

BMR LCA relocate brackets, use the middle holes. If the car is lowered, you require these..or get severe wheel hop. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=170&superpro=0

Both the BMR pair of poly LCA's and also poly UCA come with grease nipples. Only synthetic grease is to be used, and the tube of synthetic grease needs to be in it's own dedicated new, clean grease gun. Grease used on initial install, then again after 500 miles, then every 6 months after that. Then they are quiet.
There are tiny holes around the perimeter, on the sides of the poly bushings. Enough synthetic grease is pumped in, till grease oozes out the small holes. Also, grease is initially slopped on the sides of the poly bushings.

Adjustable BMR PHB . https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=172&superpro=0
Again, made from DOM. Adjustable portion made from chromolly steel. Poly bushings...same deal, requires synthetic grease. Slick unit, since the adjustable portion resides in a bit..on the PASS side. You can slide under the car to tweak it, no jack or lift required.

BMR mating PHB rectangular DOM tubing support rod. Oem version is junk, made from stamped steel.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=173&superpro=0

I got all my BMR items in red (also available in hammertone black). Then it's all colour coded. You see red, then you know a poly bushing needs to be greased.

Suspensions are a pita as is. Just do it right the 1st time around. As to the 1" difference between the rears, something is amiss, like a partially collapsed / defective spring / and / or spring perch, etc. A rear shock would not be the issue. The springs reside inboard, the shocks reside outboard of the springs. Rear shocks could be entirely removed, and ride height would not be affected. On 2nd thought, a defective rear shock might just be a possible issue, if it was stuck, partially compressed etc. Since the axle is ok, find out what is causing the huge 1" difference between the rears. Check the rear sway bar, it might just be bound tight on one side.

Did you trim the bumpstops on the axle when you did the suspension?

Pentalab said:

Since the axle is ok, find out what is causing the huge 1" difference between the rears. Check the rear sway bar, it might just be bound tight on one side.

Click to expand...

Pentalab, did the OP confirm the axle is ok? He might have but I don't see it. It seems totally possible falling off a jack stand could bend the rear axle, especially where the tubes come out of the pumpkin.

Hey everyone. To answer some questions: Yes, I installed the new bumpstops with the Ford Racing kit. Axle looks fine, is there anything I can do to confirm?

Also - did anyone listen to my short video above with the sound? You'll know when you hear it. Thanks.

Just want to bump this. Still no progress on my end. I'd like some more info before spending money on parts I don't need quite this second. The video above may help.

OK, have some progress. I now know when the car does not rub: going over bumps or upgrade when in neutral or with the clutch pedal depressed. It also seems to be more frequent when the car is hot. Transmission and clutch are working perfectly. Any ideas?

Bump for some help if anyone has other ideas. Thanks!

I wanted to post the solution for others. My transmission mount (from less than 2 years ago) was totally trashed and cracked. I replaced it with a Energy Suspension polyurethane and all is well.

Thanks for the update.

Glad you got it figured out!!