Best brand oil catch can

I currently have an oil separator from Racetronix, 10AN lines fittings and a one-way check valve. Just put it on the car and will not know how well it works until the spring.









I had a JLT on the car and took it off when I went from OEM intake to a Ford Racing intake. Took me a couple years before I got around to making some lines to put the JLT back on the car. When I took the intake off to relocate the IAT sensor to the intake frankly I was shocked at the oil.

I've had 3 different oil separators/catch cans. First was the JLT, which despite traping small amounts of crankcase oil, it did not, however, prevent it from getting past the PCV barb connectors at the intake manifold. I had to literally remove the inlet tube at the throttle body and clean out the crankcase oil that the JLT did not catch. I then made the switch to Bob's oil separator and stuck with it for a little over a year. Although my results were much better over the JLT, crankcase oil would also get past the PCV connectors at the intake manifold if I didn't empty the can at least every 4-6 weeks or 300-400 miles. I then decided to sell the Bob's oil separator and make the switch to the UPR 4-chamber catch can. Out of the three separators, I've had the best results with the UPR 4-chamber unit. Not only does the UPR trap crankcase oil, but it also works as advertised from preventing crankcase oil from entering the combustion chamber, to begin with through the intake manifold via the PCV barb connectors. At any rate, in nearly 3 years with the UPR catch can, I've been really pleased with it and have no complaints whatsoever.

06 T-RED S/C GT said:

I've had 3 different oil separators/catch cans. First was the JLT, which despite traping small amounts of crankcase oil, it did not, however, prevent it from getting past the PCV barb connectors at the intake manifold. I had to literally remove the inlet tube at the throttle body and clean out the crankcase oil that the JLT did not catch. I then made the switch to Bob's oil separator and stuck with it for a little over a year. Although my results were much better over the JLT, crankcase oil would also get past the PCV connectors at the intake manifold if I didn't empty the can at least every 4-6 weeks or 300-400 miles. I then decided to sell the Bob's oil separator and make the switch to the UPR 4-chamber catch can. Out of the three separators, I've had the best results with the UPR 4-chamber unit. Not only does the UPR trap crankcase oil, but it also works as advertised from preventing crankcase oil from entering the combustion chamber, to begin with through the intake manifold via the PCV barb connectors. At any rate, in nearly 3 years with the UPR catch can, I've been really pleased with it and have no complaints whatsoever.

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Which UPR one?

I run their Mega-catch Can with CSS on my 2013 Ecoboost F150 and it takes a water bottle worth off every 300-500 miles, yes mostly water but a good amount of oil and other goop too.

So why is it, when I switched from Ford 5W-20 dino oil.... to 100% synthetic RP 5W-30 HPS, that the amount collected in the catch can dropped 80-90% ?? This is immediately after the oil type change, been like that for years now. I dunno know if it's cuz the RP is 100% synthetic, and / or some special proprietary ingredient in their formulation..like the 'snyerlec' and loads of ZDP they use.

5w30! She's gonna blow!

I run a mix of 5w20 cheapest ass mobil and the ford 5w50.

Pentalab said:

So why is it, when I switched from Ford 5W-20 dino oil.... to 100% synthetic RP 5W-30 HPS, that the amount collected in the catch can dropped 80-90% ?? This is immediately after the oil type change, been like that for years now. I dunno know if it's cuz the RP is 100% synthetic, and / or some special proprietary ingredient in their formulation..like the 'snyerlec' and loads of ZDP they use.

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It was probably a mix of the brand and oil weight. Not really an apples to apples comparison the way you did it.

Shotokan1509 said:

Which UPR one?

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07-14 GT500. It can also be used with 05-10 GT models, just mount on the driver's side firewall. It also includes an inline one-way check valve. Here's a couple of images of mine below including the UPR link.


http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-shelby-07-sc.html

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Not if you have a valve cover breather on the driver's side.

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1950StangJump$ said:

As stated above, a catch can on the passenger side for an 05-10 car would be a complete waste. With or without a blower, if you collect oil on that side, something is terrible wrong.

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Well if you just remove the vacuum from the drivers side everything comes out now through the passenger side. A breather is useless on the drivers side. Unless you remove the pcv valve, nothing will ever come out the driver's side cam cover.

07 Boss said:

Well if you just remove the vacuum from the drivers side everything comes out now through the passenger side. A breather is useless on the drivers side. Unless you remove the pcv valve, nothing will ever come out the driver's side cam cover.

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Yup, unless you remove the pcv valve on the driver's side cam cover as you mentioned, nothing will come out from the cam cover once the vacuum has been disabled on the driver's side intake port. If you're going to run open breathers on a 2005-10 4.6 3valve. The options are to cap off the vacuum port at the intake manifold located on the driver's side along with capping off the cam cover inlet also on the driver's side, then run a valve cover breather on the passenger side cam cover and also an oil cap breather which will then provide 2 outlets for ventilating the crankcase. Otherwise, in order to run breathers on both, the driver and passenger sides will require uninstalling the driver's side cam cover and then having to cut open the tube which houses the integrated pcv valve and remove it. Then reclose the tube and reinstall the cam cover. However, I wasn't willing to go through such a hassle just in order to run an open breather system which in my opinion isn't really beneficial unless you have outlets from both cam cover ports along with from the oil cap location for ventilating the crankcase in the most efficient manner. Therefore I decided it was in my best interest to run an oil separator/catch can that also includes an integrated one-way check valve with the active pcv system left intact.

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Not if you have a valve cover breather on the driver's side.

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Not true at all. The 05-10 4.6L 3valves all have integrated pcv valves located on the underside of the driver's side valve cover. Unless the pcv valve is cut open from its tube housing and then removed, it would be completely useless to run a valve cover breather, as the pcv valve requires vacuum pulled from the intake manifold port in order for the valve to open, otherwise, once the factory's active pcv system has been disabled, the pcv valve will no longer function properly due from not being able to open. Needless to say, I wasn't about to go through all that hassle just in order to run an open breather setup nor was I willing to settle for running a valve cover breather just on the passenger side along with an oil cap breather which would only provide 2 outlets for ventilating the crankcase. Being that I run FI, this was not acceptable and therefore decided it would be in my best interest to stick with the factory pcv system in place by adding an oil separator/catch can that also includes a built-in one-way check valve.

The crankcase ventilation set ups do, of course, need to be different from N/A when you have FI.
Mine's N/A and you're right that a breather on the driver's side is functionally useless. Mine's only there for aesthetics. I've also capped off the vacuum ports both on the intake manifold and the pipe before the throttle body, so the intake system is completely divorced from the crankcase and the inside of the system remains oil free.
On the passenger side VC I have a catch can with breather filter and it collects mostly water (condensate from moisture in atmosphere).

JG-1 said:

How often do you guys empty the cans? And does a blower require more frequent can empting than NA?

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Can't answer IRT a blower, but my driver-side can pretty much fills w/every oil change (~3K-3.5K miles).

JG-1 said:

How often do you guys empty the cans? And does a blower require more frequent can empting than NA?

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Depends on how often you run the car at WOT or under boost. If you run it quite often at WOT/boost, you increase the crankcase/cylinder pressure more than when running under normal driving conditions. As a rule of thumb, I always check my catch can every 4-6 weeks or every 300-400 miles just to be on the safe side. But every oil change is usually often enough as mentioned.

ghunt81 said:

I don't believe one is really recommended for the passenger side unless you have forced induction.

I empty mine at every oil change (5000 miles). It's usually got a good couple ounces of liquid in it by that point.

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Having a catch can on the passenger side is a catch-22, no pun intended lol. However, having forced induction isn't a factor nor has nothing to do with it. When running either naturally aspirated or FI, when driving at WOT, the factory PCV system is temporarily disabled and therefore has no vacuum coming from the intake manifold to pull crankcase oil vapor out of the driver's side PCV valve. Unless you add a one-way check valve as I have with my catch can, this will temporarily force the combustion chamber to relieve pressure by pushing crankcase oil vapors out through the passenger side cam cover outlet. So under this scenario, IMO it would make sense to add a second catch can to the passenger side. For my particular application, however, I run a single catch can on just the driver's side that also includes an integrated one-way check valve and also a billet oil cap breather which also includes a built-in one-way check valve as well. This provides 3 outlets for ventilating the crankcase when running at WOT/boost and also when under normal driving conditions. That being said, I would only recommend adding a second catch can to the passenger side when not adding a one-way check valve and or billet oil cap breather with an integrated one-way check valve.

1950StangJump$ said:

As stated above, a catch can on the passenger side for an 05-10 car would be a complete waste. With or without a blower, if you collect oil on that side, something is terrible wrong.

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Also as stated above, not necessarily.

Dino Dino Bambino said:

The crankcase ventilation set ups do, of course, need to be different from N/A when you have FI.
Mine's N/A and you're right that a breather on the driver's side is functionally useless. Mine's only there for aesthetics. I've also capped off the vacuum ports both on the intake manifold and the pipe before the throttle body, so the intake system is completely divorced from the crankcase and the inside of the system remains oil free.
On the passenger side VC I have a catch can with breather filter and it collects mostly water (condensate from moisture in atmosphere).

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The same principle applies to FI as well, at least when it comes to PD blowers anyhow lol. When running my Saleen blower under boost, the active pcv system closes vacuum from the intake manifold to the driver's side pcv valve, just as it does when running N/A at WOT which temporarily prevents the pcv valve from opening. This is when the Saleen blower's bypass valve takes over by relieving pressure from the crankcase when under boost. Prior to finding out about the driver's side integrated pcv valve, I also found out the hard way just how functionally useless it was to run an open breather setup. Like yourself, I also capped off the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and also on the inlet pipe before the throttle body. Once I discovered that only the passenger side was ventilating pressure from the crankcase, I thought about adding an oil cap breather but in the end, decided against the open breather setup altogether in favor of going back to the factory PCV system by adding a catch can that also includes an integrated one-way check valve to the driver's side and also installing a billet oil cap breather which also includes a built-in one-way check valve as well. Needless to say, I haven't regretted scrapping the open breather setup ever since

I bought one of these with the clean side. Haven't even put it on. Been sitting in my shed in a box for over a year now. Still got breathers on the car lol

https://juggernautpower.com/store/index.php?id_product=141&controller=product

I ought to just sell it.

Pulling the PCV valve is pretty easy. Took a dremel to it and was putting the cover back on in a matter of minutes. Also have the 710 cap breather on there.

Jegs air / oil separator, around $ 50.00, spliced into the Ford OEM tubing.
.
........2011 GT500, been on the car for 7 + years.

........2014 GT500, been on the car for 5 + years.

........2017 F150, 5.0, been on the truck for 20 months.

Do you have to replace that element in the Jegs separator?

Something akin to that Jegs was on mine when I bought it. Was apparently part of the Kenne Bell kit when it was installed by in 2009. Problem is, with forced induction, at least on the 4.6s, that little thing fills up FAST. Thus the reason I converted to the bigger Moroso.

That Jeg's one is the one I originally had in my car. TBH, it's small, and after switching to the Mishimoto I don't feel like it was catching everything. It is compact, easy to fit in tighter spots and has the clear bottom to see how much is in it though.

That "element" in the Jeg's separator is kind of a piece of foam or something similar...and I'm not even sure if it can be replaced, I think it's supposed to be cleaned occasionally, I never did.

1 Alibi 2 said:

Jegs air / oil separator, around $ 50.00, spliced into the Ford OEM tubing.
.
........2011 GT500, been on the car for 7 + years.

........2014 GT500, been on the car for 5 + years.

........2017 F150, 5.0, been on the truck for 20 months.

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What is that battery cover in the first pic?