5.3L Stroker 3V build

Poonisher

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2005 GT Vert Auto with 140K.
Mod list~
Engine/Perf:

FRPP Radiator w/ GT500 Fan
FRPP Intake Manifold
FRPP Hot Rod Cams
FRPP High Vol Oil Pump w/ boundary billet gears
Cylinder Heads P/P (61cc), work done by Fox Lake
JLT Catch cans
JLT CAI
Steeda Underdrive pulley
BBK Long tube headers w/ X-Pipe
MBRP Axle back
FRPP 4.10s w/ trac-lok carbon discs
DeatschWerks 340 lph fuel pump
TCI 3000 stall converter

Suspension/wheel:

Pedders eXtreme Xa Coilovers
BMR Tubular K member w/ Rad and A-arm braces
BMR Lower control A arms
BMR Rear upper (Adj) and lower control arms w/ relocation brackets
BMR Boxed subframe connectors
FRPP Panhard bar (Adj)
FRPP Brembo brakes w/ slotted rotors and stainless lines
APEX EC-7 18x10 squared setup

SCT tune by CRT Performance, currently 333rwhp

So my question is regarding build. My goal is to keep as a daily driver but beef up bottom end and throw blower on it and be around 650-700HP to the tires. Then I thought might as well go 5.3L. I was going to buy the Brenspeed B326 or the FRPP 5.3L but I thought why not take opportunity to learn and build with sons/save more for blower. I do most of my own work typically but wont tear open a trans (confusing) and will pay for convenience if its cold outside :) So I bought this junk based off research of the assembled shortblocks for sale and my power needs.

BLOCK
M-6010-BOSS50

PISTONS
JE# 314623
Ford 4.6L Modular 3 Valve
Bore: 3.701"
Dome Volume: -7.4
Compression Ratio with 50cc Head: 11.0:1
Weight: 362g
Rod Length: 5.850"
Stroke: 3.750"
Pin Size: 0.866" ( I did upgrade pins to a .230 thickness for 700+HP)
Recommended Ring Set: JG1008-3701
Material: 2618 aluminum alloy.

CONNECTING RODS
Manley Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Part# 14044-8
Connecting Rod Length Center to Center (in): 5.850 in.
Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam
Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Clearanced for Stroker: Yes
Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in.
Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 8740 chromoly steel
Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 160,000 psi
Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 612
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.1250 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.867 in.
Big End Width (in): 0.940 in.
Advertised Horsepower Rating: 750 hp
Weight Matched Set: Yes
Magnafluxed: Yes
Notes: Designed for 22mm pin and 2.000 in. crank journal.

CRANKSHAFT
M-6303-46ST
Eagle part # 428137505850
Forged 4340 Chromoly Steel Crankshafts
Use in 4.6L block to make 5.0L or M-6010-BOSS50 block to make 5.3L
3.7500” stroke
1.889” rod journal (-0.010”)
2.657” main journal (-0.010”)
5.850” minimum rod length
8 bolt crankshaft
Internal balance


So I feel comfortable enough to do it but still need some advice.
1. Is all the machining I need done, deck block and hone bores. Then have rotating assembly balanced? I plan taking to machine shop and telling them I need those done and then taking it all back to my house to assemble. also what would avg cost estimate be to do those ?

2. The crank is "reworked .010" under on main and rod journals. Ground 10-10 to achieve correct bearing clearance in our stroker crate engine." what does that mean in regard to my bearings ( I haven't got those yet)?

3. Do I need a different flexplate or is the stock one 8 bolt?

4. Piston to valve clearance, is this a concern with stock deck height and mild Hot Rod cams? My calculations have my compression ratio around 9:5:1ish with the 61cc ported heads.

5. Any other guidance or tips? My plan is to assemble short block and then have it mated to a TCI super street fighter trans, installed with my heads/accessories and tune. Drive for a few weeks and then get supercharger, and finalize tune and build.

Am I missing anything?

I already purchased all but bearings. I love the 3V sound and don't care it others think coyotes are better or stroker was unnecessary. I just need guidance, confirmation of my plan, and effective responses please so I don't blow it up.
 

drive_55_not

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1st thing ... Your piston/rod combo is not going to work with that Eagle crank, It uses a 1.889 "Honda" journal and as far as I know only their Eagle rods will work with it ..


Are you sure the heads are 61cc bowls?

They should only be 52cc tor 53cc after unshrouding the valves. I have a set of FRPP stage 1 ported heads and I checked the bowl cc and they came out at 52.5cc. PTV should not be an issue with the correct piston relief, but your C/R is going to be closer to 10.3:1 with a 52cc bowl. Not a big deal.

You'll need the Boss motor mounts, M-6031-BOSS50.

You need to get the cylinders honed for what pattern your rings call for.

The deck is supposed to be correct, but should be checked to ensure it'c right with whatever piston/rod combo you are using. And the crank bore should be right also.

I am installing a stock stoke Cobra crank Big Bore Boss motor myself, TKM Performance did the machine work and assembled the short block for $2200, that included miscellaneous stuff +NC tax.

This is the what was done on mine, I'm planning to replace my TVS with a twin turbo setup and turning it to 8-K and want it to actually last as I don't wanna pull this motor again. Kevin is a drag racer running low 4's, and may have broken into the 3's so he knows how to build an engine,.

File Fit rings, Assemble Piston Rack, Assemble Short Block, Check Main/Rod Clearance ………………………………………… $600

Balance Rotating Assy/Add Mallory ……… $350
Torque Plate Hone 3.702” ……………………… $225
Line Hone ………………………………………………. $225
CNC Deck ………………………………………………… $200
Polish Crankshaft ………………………………….. $40

Jet Wash/Debur Block ……………………. $85

We had a discussion on another thread sometime back about machine cost, Yes you can get all that work done at Redneck Joe's machine shop for $300 and hope he knows the difference between a 40yr old BB Chebby push rod motor and a Ford modular.


You'll need an 8 bolt flex plate, I used a PRW 1828111 when I did my 6R80 install.

Good luck with your build..

.
 

Poonisher

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Thanks for response, I returned the rods, and got the Eagle ones that go to that crank. The bearings have to be modified by Eagle for the mains apparently as well.
 

drive_55_not

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Yes the bearings will need to be narrowed to fit .

I haven't heard of anybody having issues with the Eagle rods, they are rated for the same 750hp Manley rates theirs for, plus Eagle ships with ARP2000 bolts where you pay an extra $100 for the ARP2000 for the Manley's.


.
 

Coralie01

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1st thing ... Your piston/rod combo is not going to work with that Eagle crank, It uses a 1.889 "Honda" journal and as far as I know only their Eagle rods will work with it ..


Are you sure the heads are 61cc bowls?

They should only be 52cc tor 53cc after unshrouding the valves. I have a set of FRPP stage 1 ported heads and I checked the bowl cc and they came out at 52.5cc. PTV should not be an issue with the correct piston relief, but your C/R is going to be closer to 10.3:1 with a 52cc bowl. Not a big deal.

You'll need the Boss motor mounts, M-6031-BOSS50.

You need to get the cylinders honed for what pattern your rings call for.

The deck is supposed to be correct, but should be checked to ensure it'c right with whatever piston/rod combo you are using. And the crank bore should be right also.

I am installing a stock stoke Cobra crank Big Bore Boss motor myself, TKM Performance did the machine work and assembled the short block for $2200, that included miscellaneous stuff +NC tax.

This is the what was done on mine, I'm planning to replace my TVS with a twin turbo setup and turning it to 8-K and want it to actually last as I don't wanna pull this motor again. Kevin is a drag racer running low 4's, and may have broken into the 3's so he knows how to build an engine,.

File Fit rings, Assemble Piston Rack, Assemble Short Block, Check Main/Rod Clearance ………………………………………… $600

Balance Rotating Assy/Add Mallory ……… $350
Torque Plate Hone 3.702” ……………………… $225
Line Hone ………………………………………………. $225
CNC Deck ………………………………………………… $200
Polish Crankshaft ………………………………….. $40

Jet Wash/Debur Block ……………………. $85

We had a discussion on another thread sometime back about machine cost, Yes you can get all that work done at Redneck Joe's machine shop for $300 and hope he knows the difference between a 40yr old BB Chebby push rod motor and a Ford modular.

transfers CDG


You'll need an 8 bolt flex plate, I used a PRW 1828111 when I did my 6R80 install.

Good luck with your build..

.
interesting
 

Wild White Pony

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Please consider a 4R70W swap instead of the Super Street Fighter Trans. Many have been down this road including myself. My Super Street fighter didn't last 1 run down the track.
 

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