2005 GT Vert Auto with 140K.
Mod list~
Engine/Perf:
FRPP Radiator w/ GT500 Fan
FRPP Intake Manifold
FRPP Hot Rod Cams
FRPP High Vol Oil Pump w/ boundary billet gears
Cylinder Heads P/P (61cc), work done by Fox Lake
JLT Catch cans
JLT CAI
Steeda Underdrive pulley
BBK Long tube headers w/ X-Pipe
MBRP Axle back
FRPP 4.10s w/ trac-lok carbon discs
DeatschWerks 340 lph fuel pump
TCI 3000 stall converter
Suspension/wheel:
Pedders eXtreme Xa Coilovers
BMR Tubular K member w/ Rad and A-arm braces
BMR Lower control A arms
BMR Rear upper (Adj) and lower control arms w/ relocation brackets
BMR Boxed subframe connectors
FRPP Panhard bar (Adj)
FRPP Brembo brakes w/ slotted rotors and stainless lines
APEX EC-7 18x10 squared setup
SCT tune by CRT Performance, currently 333rwhp
So my question is regarding build. My goal is to keep as a daily driver but beef up bottom end and throw blower on it and be around 650-700HP to the tires. Then I thought might as well go 5.3L. I was going to buy the Brenspeed B326 or the FRPP 5.3L but I thought why not take opportunity to learn and build with sons/save more for blower. I do most of my own work typically but wont tear open a trans (confusing) and will pay for convenience if its cold outside So I bought this junk based off research of the assembled shortblocks for sale and my power needs.
BLOCK
M-6010-BOSS50
PISTONS
JE# 314623
Ford 4.6L Modular 3 Valve
Bore: 3.701"
Dome Volume: -7.4
Compression Ratio with 50cc Head: 11.0:1
Weight: 362g
Rod Length: 5.850"
Stroke: 3.750"
Pin Size: 0.866" ( I did upgrade pins to a .230 thickness for 700+HP)
Recommended Ring Set: JG1008-3701
Material: 2618 aluminum alloy.
CONNECTING RODS
Manley Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Part# 14044-8
Connecting Rod Length Center to Center (in): 5.850 in.
Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam
Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Clearanced for Stroker: Yes
Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in.
Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 8740 chromoly steel
Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 160,000 psi
Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 612
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.1250 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.867 in.
Big End Width (in): 0.940 in.
Advertised Horsepower Rating: 750 hp
Weight Matched Set: Yes
Magnafluxed: Yes
Notes: Designed for 22mm pin and 2.000 in. crank journal.
CRANKSHAFT
M-6303-46ST
Eagle part # 428137505850
Forged 4340 Chromoly Steel Crankshafts
Use in 4.6L block to make 5.0L or M-6010-BOSS50 block to make 5.3L
3.7500” stroke
1.889” rod journal (-0.010”)
2.657” main journal (-0.010”)
5.850” minimum rod length
8 bolt crankshaft
Internal balance
So I feel comfortable enough to do it but still need some advice.
1. Is all the machining I need done, deck block and hone bores. Then have rotating assembly balanced? I plan taking to machine shop and telling them I need those done and then taking it all back to my house to assemble. also what would avg cost estimate be to do those ?
2. The crank is "reworked .010" under on main and rod journals. Ground 10-10 to achieve correct bearing clearance in our stroker crate engine." what does that mean in regard to my bearings ( I haven't got those yet)?
3. Do I need a different flexplate or is the stock one 8 bolt?
4. Piston to valve clearance, is this a concern with stock deck height and mild Hot Rod cams? My calculations have my compression ratio around 9:5:1ish with the 61cc ported heads.
5. Any other guidance or tips? My plan is to assemble short block and then have it mated to a TCI super street fighter trans, installed with my heads/accessories and tune. Drive for a few weeks and then get supercharger, and finalize tune and build.
Am I missing anything?
I already purchased all but bearings. I love the 3V sound and don't care it others think coyotes are better or stroker was unnecessary. I just need guidance, confirmation of my plan, and effective responses please so I don't blow it up.
Mod list~
Engine/Perf:
FRPP Radiator w/ GT500 Fan
FRPP Intake Manifold
FRPP Hot Rod Cams
FRPP High Vol Oil Pump w/ boundary billet gears
Cylinder Heads P/P (61cc), work done by Fox Lake
JLT Catch cans
JLT CAI
Steeda Underdrive pulley
BBK Long tube headers w/ X-Pipe
MBRP Axle back
FRPP 4.10s w/ trac-lok carbon discs
DeatschWerks 340 lph fuel pump
TCI 3000 stall converter
Suspension/wheel:
Pedders eXtreme Xa Coilovers
BMR Tubular K member w/ Rad and A-arm braces
BMR Lower control A arms
BMR Rear upper (Adj) and lower control arms w/ relocation brackets
BMR Boxed subframe connectors
FRPP Panhard bar (Adj)
FRPP Brembo brakes w/ slotted rotors and stainless lines
APEX EC-7 18x10 squared setup
SCT tune by CRT Performance, currently 333rwhp
So my question is regarding build. My goal is to keep as a daily driver but beef up bottom end and throw blower on it and be around 650-700HP to the tires. Then I thought might as well go 5.3L. I was going to buy the Brenspeed B326 or the FRPP 5.3L but I thought why not take opportunity to learn and build with sons/save more for blower. I do most of my own work typically but wont tear open a trans (confusing) and will pay for convenience if its cold outside So I bought this junk based off research of the assembled shortblocks for sale and my power needs.
BLOCK
M-6010-BOSS50
PISTONS
JE# 314623
Ford 4.6L Modular 3 Valve
Bore: 3.701"
Dome Volume: -7.4
Compression Ratio with 50cc Head: 11.0:1
Weight: 362g
Rod Length: 5.850"
Stroke: 3.750"
Pin Size: 0.866" ( I did upgrade pins to a .230 thickness for 700+HP)
Recommended Ring Set: JG1008-3701
Material: 2618 aluminum alloy.
CONNECTING RODS
Manley Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods Part# 14044-8
Connecting Rod Length Center to Center (in): 5.850 in.
Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam
Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Clearanced for Stroker: Yes
Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in.
Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 8740 chromoly steel
Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 160,000 psi
Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 612
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.1250 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.867 in.
Big End Width (in): 0.940 in.
Advertised Horsepower Rating: 750 hp
Weight Matched Set: Yes
Magnafluxed: Yes
Notes: Designed for 22mm pin and 2.000 in. crank journal.
CRANKSHAFT
M-6303-46ST
Eagle part # 428137505850
Forged 4340 Chromoly Steel Crankshafts
Use in 4.6L block to make 5.0L or M-6010-BOSS50 block to make 5.3L
3.7500” stroke
1.889” rod journal (-0.010”)
2.657” main journal (-0.010”)
5.850” minimum rod length
8 bolt crankshaft
Internal balance
So I feel comfortable enough to do it but still need some advice.
1. Is all the machining I need done, deck block and hone bores. Then have rotating assembly balanced? I plan taking to machine shop and telling them I need those done and then taking it all back to my house to assemble. also what would avg cost estimate be to do those ?
2. The crank is "reworked .010" under on main and rod journals. Ground 10-10 to achieve correct bearing clearance in our stroker crate engine." what does that mean in regard to my bearings ( I haven't got those yet)?
3. Do I need a different flexplate or is the stock one 8 bolt?
4. Piston to valve clearance, is this a concern with stock deck height and mild Hot Rod cams? My calculations have my compression ratio around 9:5:1ish with the 61cc ported heads.
5. Any other guidance or tips? My plan is to assemble short block and then have it mated to a TCI super street fighter trans, installed with my heads/accessories and tune. Drive for a few weeks and then get supercharger, and finalize tune and build.
Am I missing anything?
I already purchased all but bearings. I love the 3V sound and don't care it others think coyotes are better or stroker was unnecessary. I just need guidance, confirmation of my plan, and effective responses please so I don't blow it up.