EPAS testing on 07GT

I'm going to revive this thread instead of starting a new one. I have everything wired in and bolted up but the steering wheel won't turn with the car on the ground. It'll turn with the car in the air (no resistance), but not with the car sitting on its wheels. I don't think the rack is working. Using a multimeter, the thick power wire has constant power and the switched has power when it should. Ground is obviously connected. I made sure to follow the wiring diagrams for the HI and LOW but I guess there's a minuscule chance that I got them backwards. IF I GOT THEM BACKWARDS, would the rack simply not work like in my case or would the resistance at the speeds reverse (ex. high resistance at low speeds)? I got the rear up and turned the wheels to 150mph and there was no change in resistance.

Jay.GT said:

I'm going to revive this thread instead of starting a new one. I have everything wired in and bolted up but the steering wheel won't turn with the car on the ground. It'll turn with the car in the air (no resistance), but not with the car sitting on its wheels. I don't think the rack is working. Using a multimeter, the thick power wire has constant power and the switched has power when it should. Ground is obviously connected. I made sure to follow the wiring diagrams for the HI and LOW but I guess there's a minuscule chance that I got them backwards. IF I GOT THEM BACKWARDS, would the rack simply not work like in my case or would the resistance at the speeds reverse (ex. high resistance at low speeds)? I got the rear up and turned the wheels to 150mph and there was no change in resistance.

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Did you get it worked out Bubba?

No, I haven't had time to work on it today. I'm going to swap the can wires around tomorrow night after work but I won't be able to test it until the next day if I have time before work (car is loud and I live in a tight neighborhood). I triple checked that diagram to make sure I was wiring it properly but hopefully I just made a dumb error. It'd be a lot easier to fix than replacing the whole rack. Right now I'm leaning towards a dead rack though, I'm 99.99% sure it's all wired correctly.

I feel like you may be correct on the rack, but I hope it is something simple

So yeah the rack is just dead. Shame. I haven't driven this car in a little over 7 months. Hopefully finding another low mile 13/14 rack for a decent price doesn't take long. The one I bought only had 21k on it according to the ad.

Jay.GT said:

So yeah the rack is just dead. Shame. I haven't driven this car in a little over 7 months. Hopefully finding another low mile 13/14 rack for a decent price doesn't take long. The one I bought only had 21k on it according to the ad.

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I bought mine from Wade's Motorsports. You can find him on FB or eBay

Jay.GT said:

So yeah the rack is just dead. Shame. I haven't driven this car in a little over 7 months. Hopefully finding another low mile 13/14 rack for a decent price doesn't take long. The one I bought only had 21k on it according to the ad.

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Where are you located? I have a spare from a 2011 with 42k I'd let go for a couple of hundred in southern Ontario, ie 30 mins North of Buffalo. Would have to test it first, never tried it out but presumably it worked before the car was vandalized.

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LikeabossTM said:

Where are you located? I have a spare from a 2011 with 42k I'd let go for a couple of hundred in southern Ontario, ie 30 mins North of Buffalo. Would have to test it first, never tried it out but presumably it worked before the car was vandalized.

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Thank you but I'm looking for a 13/14 rack. From everything that I've read, the 11/12 models are the ones susceptible to the "shuddering" issue that so many people have reported. That issue seems to have been addressed with the 13/14 racks.

Are these racks not rebuildable?

Update:
I bought another rack (3 total) and this one works perfect. I was actually just unlucky enough to be sent two defective racks.

Jay.GT said:

Update:
I bought another rack (3 total) and this one works perfect. I was actually just unlucky enough to be sent two defective racks.

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That is wild, glad you got it. How do you like the EPAS life?

I just got my alignment done this morning, it's fantastic. Even if it is on a "comfort" setting, I'm more than pleased with it.

Has anyone heard of or figured out how to change the feel setting? Compared to my 19 in track, the 06 feels pretty loose now in comfort setting. I'd like to tighten up the steering feel.

How does one go about deciding which rack to get? For a 2013 my local wrecking yard shows a different one for each available wheel diameter. Go with one for 17" wheels since that's what my car has? This looks like a very interesting project.

Rick Simons said:

How does one go about deciding which rack to get? For a 2013 my local wrecking yard shows a different one for each available wheel diameter. Go with one for 17" wheels since that's what my car has? This looks like a very interesting project.

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The difference in the racks is the steering stops. 17s have the smallest stops and will turn the tightest, but you run the risk of rubbing the control arms depending on wheel size and offset.

zquez said:

Has anyone heard of or figured out how to change the feel setting? Compared to my 19 in track, the 06 feels pretty loose now in comfort setting. I'd like to tighten up the steering feel.

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I think I have have been able to slightly increase steering effort with Forscan. Default config was "01". I tried 02 and 03. I left it at 03. Again, I am not 100% on it making any difference. And absolutely no change as far as steering feedback.
May need to find a way to reflash rack with Ford racing firmware.

Is the rack supposed to engage key-on only? Just did this swap, but key-on, it still feels VERY tight.

65fastback2+2 said:

Is the rack supposed to engage key-on only? Just did this swap, but key-on, it still feels VERY tight.

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No, engine must be running for assist to come on.

Juice said:

No, engine must be running for assist to come on.

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Ya, I ended up trying it and figuring that part out. Thanks!

Some notes for you all still doing swaps:

1) The F150 harness has all the wires you need, less of what you dont need and is cheaper: BL3Z-3F720-A . I paid about $95.
2) At least on my GT500, the PCM and associated wiring is jammed up at the front of the car and a pain to get to. The PCM canbus wires go over to the brake controls which sit below the easily removed cold air intake. MUCH easier to get to and tie in there.
3) I bought the wiring diagram for the F150 harness just to double check wiring colors. Even though the f150 electric steering came out years after my 2010 GT500, the can+ was WHI-BLU on both and can- was solid white.
4) Since its a COM wire, the pairs are twisted around either other, so easy to know which white to grab...its the one twisted with the white-blue.
5) With the f150 wiring diagram, I found the factory runs the key-on wire with a 5amp fuse, so its low power. No need to tie into circuit 47 PCM power which is 15 amps. I tied into my defrost (which is hot in key on and run) 5amp circuit with a 5amp add a circuit setup. Works perfect. I didnt want to tie into my pcm power as my 6r80 controller is already tied into pcm power and I didnt want to add any additional load.