Door Sub Replacement - Non Shelby...

Wicked GT · Feb 10, 2014

Rocketcar, used duct tape originally when I did the door enclosures, the foam was simply to deaden the sound escaping. That has all been replaced with dynamat so there is no worries any more and the doors are solid.

As for the sub enclosure... I am getting the sub broken in to see how it will actually sound. If I get the need for harder tighter bass I will be building an enclosure utilizing the bottom mount. I love the way it sounds right now so don't think I need one and it is one less thing to draw attention when the trunk is open. Most people would never notice the sub magnet hanging down and I have full use of the trunk and pass through area.

RocketcarX · Feb 10, 2014

What was the light colored foam all over the back of the door sub?

Wicked GT · Feb 10, 2014

That is foam but I put a layer of Gorilla duct tape over the openings and then covered the taped area with foam. I also used the foam in the corners to assist with vibration. I removed the foam and duct tape when I got the Dynamat and used that instead so it was PROPERLY sealed...

Wicked GT · Feb 14, 2014

After listening to the sub as it is breaking in, this thing sounds better every day and would do it again in a heartbeat! Sound is precise, hits you in the back even at low volume, and best of all is not muffled by the seats. Lot of work but in the end VERY worth it! Here are my settings for the system:

Speakers (F) = High Pass 90hz
Speakers (R) = High Pass 80hz
8" Subs = Low Pass 100hz
10" Sub = Low Pass 75hz

Stereo Bass = +2 from Center
Stereo Treble = +2 from Center
Fade = -2 (towards the back)

This makes the soundstage right at my ears and takes a little work off the door subs. Almost gives it a surround sound feel as you get sound and bass evenly form all angles. I can't wait to hear how great it sounds when the sub is fully broken in... :clap:

RetiredSFC 97 · Mar 26, 2014

I want to thank you for this write up. One of the best I've ever seen and actually exactly what I would like to do in the future.

question

How did the front door woofers sound before you changed out the amp. 2 ohm DVC going into a 1.2 ohm amp should be adequate for the front doors.

Not questioning why you did what you did, I'm trying to find something adequate for my car and I've been thinking about going to 2 ohm DVC. I do know there is also a 1 ohm 8" but not sure of the depth for mounting.

Currently I have JBL 6.5 components in the front and am going to put 6.5 JBL 638 in the rear. I tried some 6.5 mid ranges in place of the 8" woofers but I lost too much lower mid range bass, so I put the 8"'s back in. I think with a free air sub in the back window that would do it for me, but that's later down the road.

Wicked GT · Mar 26, 2014

Retired, they still sounded amazing compared to the factory subs. They didn't get as loud obviously but for the minor power they were getting they were pretty decent. Adding more power gave it more depth and obviously allowed them to hit like they were intended.

There was some discussion in one of my other thread regarding the factory wire handling up to 90w. Since I was gutting the interior to install speakers, and then again to do the amps and power wires I just ran new speaker wire. I am very much from the camp that feels you can't over engineer something if all of the pieces work with each other. I just didn't want the factory wire to be the Achilles heel of the system, thus I upgraded all the wires. It was a pain doing the doors but in the end I am very happy I did it. Any questions let me know, happy to help where I can!

Wicked GT · Mar 26, 2014

Not sure why but two of my pictures below are missing... here they are again:

RetiredSFC 97 · Mar 26, 2014

Wicked GT said:
Retired, they still sounded amazing compared to the factory subs. They didn't get as loud obviously but for the minor power they were getting they were pretty decent. Adding more power gave it more depth and obviously allowed them to hit like they were intended.

There was some discussion in one of my other thread regarding the factory wire handling up to 90w. Since I was gutting the interior to install speakers, and then again to do the amps and power wires I just ran new speaker wire. I am very much from the camp that feels you can't over engineer something if all of the pieces work with each other. I just didn't want the factory wire to be the Achilles heel of the system, thus I upgraded all the wires. It was a pain doing the doors but in the end I am very happy I did it. Any questions let me know, happy to help where I can!

Thank you sir. That answers my questions for now. I really do want to copy your install. My opinion, what you did is by far the best stereo upgrade I have personally seen in a Mustang.

Now I have to go to work this weekend dynamatting my doors and try to get the rattle out of it. Driving me insane.

Wicked GT · Mar 26, 2014

Thank you for the kind words! I came up with the idea as I had used the spare tire hole on my 89 LX Hatchback. When I removed the sub box and dropped them in the tire hole the system came alive. Having the subs fire directly in to the window and shoot the sound/thump directly at you made it sound so much cleaner. Wanted to do the same with this car and wanted something original for car shows. Take your time and do it right... don't forget the dynomat (or other brand) when you do the rear deck.

This is where the idea came from:

bigwilly43729 · Mar 28, 2014

Very nice write-up and install.

fomoco1649 · Jun 5, 2019

Thanks for the info.....I have a 2012 GT/CS.....am just going to change 4 / 6x8s with Infinity Reference and call it good.....should sound fine

Door Sub Replacement - Non Shelby...

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

RocketcarX

95% of my weight is fuel

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

RetiredSFC 97

Junior Member

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

RetiredSFC 97

Junior Member

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...

bigwilly43729

I do stupid shit, a lot

fomoco1649

Junior Member

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