Replacement Alternator

My reman'd Motorcraft alternator in my 2005 GT is starting to whine. In doing some research here, it seems like the recommendation is to use the 2010 GT alternator as it's more reliable. I am looking at a reman'd Alternator on RockAuto and a quick question that I wanted to confirm.

Is the alternator a direct swap? It seems like the answer based on reading some threads is yes, but wanted to confirm before purchasing.

ACDELCO 3343050 Professional; Remanufactured
Manual trans.; HP; Unit Mfr: Nippondenso; Amps: 150; Pulley 6SCP; Internal Fan; Internal Regulator; Clock: 11:00

The whine is probably due to worn pulley bearings. If the alternator is otherwise functioning normally, merely replacing the bearings will get rid of the whine.

I put the 2010 alternator in my car a few years back, just had to drill out the connector a bit and the wire now bends in a different direction.
Besides that went right in.

Buy a new 09-10 Ford alternator if your replacing, if you get a remanufactured one from the auto parts store it's very likely old style even if it says differently in the system.

Like mentioned its direct bolt on. The power stud is slightly larger so hog out the ring terminal. And then the plug connector is same but orientation is different but it's easy to reroute the cable to reach.

JeremyH said:

The power stud is slightly larger so hog out the ring terminal.

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Instead of creating a new thread I hope it's okay to piggy back on this one. I've been reading the same thing about replacement alternators, that the Part #: NGL8252N (10346) are crap and the 2010 ones are better Part# NGL960 (10346).

Can you elaborate or point me towards a video that shows which connector needs to be drilled out?

Also, is the NGL960 (10346) the correct alternator? This one is $485 directly from Ford, Autozone sells a Duralast Gold (DLG2618-6-11) for $341, Department of Boost sells a Denso for $320.

Which is the best way to go? Thanks

It's super simple to figure out when you install it. Its the cable that goes from battery positive post to alternator power post stud. The stud on the new alternator is a tad thicker/wider so the ring terminal connector on the power cable is hard to slide on. You can either force the ring terminal on or hog it out a tad with a drill bit to make it easier. Then tighten on the nut. Then the pcm control connector on the new alt is in a slightly different location its same plug you just have to tweak the harness to make it reach. Very simple.

Ford part number is 9R3Z10346B.
I found one on for under $300. Like mentioned anywhere else third party auto parts your highly likely to get a crappy old version reman unit since 05-10 is interchangeable.

Dob does use the revised denso units that they modify the case I believe for their kits.

^good price, may just buy a spare lol

Thanks JeremyH!

Hi Max, You might want to check out Department of Boost (DOB)for an alternator, if you plan turning some RPM & want reliability & longevity. I’ve got one and it’s superb. I’ve seen numerous products and a project in person. Quality and thought put into all that I’ve seen.
They have a web site.

Thanks for everyone's help. I bought the 2010 alternator from Tasca and installed it a couple days ago. Note to people who upgrade to the 2010 alternator, besides hogging out the ring terminal to fit the new alternator, you'll also need a bigger nut. Luckily I found one that fit in my garage. I took the original alternator to Autozone yesterday, they said it was bad.

Another thing to note is if you're running a supercharger that relocates the alternator next to the blower snout such as the DOB and Roush is that you may need to trim the plastic guard around the terminal. All I had to do to put a Denso on my 07 with a DOB kit was hog out the terminal and trim the plastic shroud for the slightly different orientation for the terminal to line up.

The Saleen VI blowers not only relocate the alternator next to the throttle body and also barely under the intake tube but is also facing backward. So what modifications would be required for the 2010 Denso alternator to fit on a 2006 GT other than hog out the ring terminal to fit the new alternator

boostedtrauma said:

Another thing to note is if you're running a supercharger that relocates the alternator next to the blower snout such as the DOB and Roush is that you may need to trim the plastic guard around the terminal. All I had to do to put a Denso on my 07 with a DOB kit was hog out the terminal and trim the plastic shroud for the slightly different orientation for the terminal to line up.

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On that note, also worth noting that alternators like the DOB will NOT fit if you are running a KB supercharger. So, that makes a 200 amp PA alternator the best upgrade there, IMO.

1950StangJump$ said:

On that note, also worth noting that alternators like the DOB will NOT fit if you are running a KB supercharger. So, that makes a 200 amp PA alternator the best upgrade there, IMO.

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Thats not true. I have a KB and DOB alt. A couple small mods and it fits fine.

Racer47 said:

Thats not true. I have a KB and DOB alt. A couple small mods and it fits fine.

View attachment 70008

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Huh. When I talked with DOB, they swore their alternator was incompatible. It's not like they didn't have something to gain by selling it to me.

I got what I got now, i.e. the 200 amp PA Performance. But, I'm curious, what modifications did you have to make in order for the DOB version to fit the KB?

I cut the power bolt down. It was ridiculously long. I cut off the straight out field wire plug and put on 3 individual 90 deg connectors.

I didn't even ask dob why it would not fit. I just bought it assuming that I could make it work. It was pretty easy. Afterwards I showed him pics and asked why he didn't want to sell to KB owners with some extra instructions.

He said "Unfortunately putting modification instructions together is asking for more problems than it is worth selling a few extra units. People like you, they get it done no problem. Unfortunately the majority of people will have issues. And that makes them my issues.
The "hot rodder" is going the way of the Dodo. Most people are "bolt on-ers" now. If it doesn't jump out of the box and put itself on the car the majority of people either won't buy it, or screw it up trying to get it done."

And I have to agree that he is right. This is what I did.

So not a single person has a clue as to whether or not the 2010 Denso alternator would have clearance or compatibility issues with the Saleen series VI blower???

Racer47 said:

I cut the power bolt down. It was ridiculously long. I cut off the straight out field wire plug and put on 3 individual 90 deg connectors.

I didn't even ask dob why it would not fit. I just bought it assuming that I could make it work. It was pretty easy. Afterwards I showed him pics and asked why he didn't want to sell to KB owners with some extra instructions.

He said "Unfortunately putting modification instructions together is asking for more problems than it is worth selling a few extra units. People like you, they get it done no problem. Unfortunately the majority of people will have issues. And that makes them my issues.
The "hot rodder" is going the way of the Dodo. Most people are "bolt on-ers" now. If it doesn't jump out of the box and put itself on the car the majority of people either won't buy it, or screw it up trying to get it done."

And I have to agree that he is right. This is what I did.

View attachment 70010

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Thanks.

If he had simply explained that modifications to the wire clearance were necessary, I would have purchased from him. His loss.

Ironically, I had tried to make a 215 amp Police Interceptor alternator work, and I had to modify the power bolt - there is a thread or two on here about guys making that work. But, it physically wouldn't fit with the KB manifold.

I would have assumed, based on DOB's strong position that their alternator wouldn't work, that it was about the size of the unit and not just wires.

Not to hyjack the thread, but when you hear a whine, it is best to take off the serpentine belt and spin all the pulleys by hand to try to find the noisy culprit. If it's idler pulleys/tensioner making the noise, it is cheaper to take it off and look to see what the bearing number is and replace the bearing rather than the whole pulley/assembly. I agree that if it's the alternator, get a '10 rather than try to fix the original one.