1 Alibi 2
If not today, when ??????
.Do you have to replace that element in the Jegs separator?
Jegs sells a replacement filter, I have never replaced mine..
.Do you have to replace that element in the Jegs separator?
.What is that battery cover in the first pic?
The only time you would run a non check valved can would be on a naturally aspirated setup. The pcv valve is a spring loaded plunger valve that is shut under manifold vaccum and opens when vac is low (wot) to vent crankcase pressure. It is not a one direction pressure checkvalve.
I'm trying to not repeat myself over and over but as I mentioned the PVC no longer functions as designed when your boosted. Again watch the video I posted maybe that will help you better. The pcv is not a checkvalve and was never designed to have to fight boost pressure coming from the manifold going into the valve cover through the pcv valve. It functions the opposite way when na vac greater than 2-4" in the manifold going through the line to the pcv valve pulls out the plunger and shuts it.
So yes 100% if your driver side setup is closed and you have boost you want a check valve to protect the engine from that pressure.
The cfm cap breather does help to vent the case but does nothing in the way of keeping you from forcing air from the manifold through the hose through your can and past the pcv and back into the case when your in boost. This pressure actually forces the pcv full open(plunger all the way in)when your in boost. Which you dont want as now instead of venting case your forcing air in past the plunger and valve seat of the pcv. An actual checkvalve would prevent this.
Conventional motor oil (or dino oil as referred to here) is mostly petroleum based (made from crude oil stocks) and when this oil is agitated from air\gasses being blown thru it (such as blow by from compression, power stroke passing thru the oil ring glands on the pistons into the crankcase) or from agitation from being slung off rotating parts & splashed into the passing air flow (blow by moving towards the vents) while hot it tends to foam up (or vaporize--flash off) making it easier to be carried out in the air stream thru the PCV system. 100% synthetic oil is entirely created from non crude oil stocks (like natural gas & coal but there are others also) & is formulated to be much more resistant to vaporization\flash off\foaming while hot when air is blown thru it or is agitated from being slung off rotating parts so it is much harder for the blow by air stream to carry it out under similar operating conditions thus you'll see less of it collected. Also w\ 100% synthetic oils, the heavier the hot viscosity grade is (the 20, 30, 40, 50 side) the resistance factor goes up even higher so it is even more resistant to vaporization\flash off when agitated or blown thru as the higher grades at 40 & up are formulated w\ severe duty use in mind (engines that operate using extremely high CR's, higher oil operating temps or are usually under some type of FI, like industrial diesels, racing engines, etc). As long as the oil has the same cold viscosity flow certification (the W side) of 5 it will be at the same cold viscosity rating & flow thru the same tolerances while cold regardless of the hot viscosity rating (thus multi-viscosity or multi-vis).So why is it, when I switched from Ford 5W-20 dino oil.... to 100% synthetic RP 5W-30 HPS, that the amount collected in the catch can dropped 80-90% ?? This is immediately after the oil type change, been like that for years now. I dunno know if it's cuz the RP is 100% synthetic, and / or some special proprietary ingredient in their formulation..like the 'snyerlec' and loads of ZDP they use.
I've been running full synthetic on my car since I bought it and still getting a ton in the catch can. Would hate to see how much would be in there on dino oil.
If you have a direct injection engine some manufactures even recommend adding a catch can in the owners manual
Works for me because i wouldnt want their stock shit on my cars anyway.The bastards are so cheap that they can't even be bothered to fit one on each car from the factory in case it eats into their corporate profits.
NO NO NO, do not use Scotch Brite pads! They will deteriorate, AND
where do you think those particles are going to end up? It may be
a little, but what do you use scotch brite pads for? SANDING...
Show us what you used, just in case. IF it's all steel mesh, that's
fine, but if it is an actual scotch brite pad, that's not good.
Why would you bracket to the strut tower when there is a perch
already there?