New tune did the trick. Now I get p430 (cats below efficiency). Next question for yall, what do you recommend for passing? I see mini cats O2 extensions 90 degree ones. Seems like those do the trick. Any other recommendations or is that the way to go?
Ok, now is the P0430 code the only 1 you're getting? Not getting the P0420 code as well? If you don't already know, the P0430 code is for B2 cat inefficiency (driver side), P0420 code is for B1 cat inefficiency (passenger side). If you're not getting a P0420 code then your issue is w\ the B2 cat only (might check the pending codes to see if P0420 is there--means that ECU saw B1 cat dip below the 92% min threshold momentarily but didn't stay past the time threshold for ECU to flag it as permanent).
After checking to see what the stipulations are in the area where you've registered your car (you probably already know but I had to say), I would check the connection between your B2 header & cat to ensure that there isn't a leak there then check the rear O2 sensor for leaks in the bung (does happen) or for sensor functionality (both in the component system check to see if B2 rear O2 sensor is passing\failing drive cycle system tests here & in live data to see the actual B2 rear O2 sensor operation to see if the B2 rear O2 sensor voltage is tracking w\ the B2 front O2 sensor STFT switching pattern while in closed loop along w\ the FF (freeze frame) data to see where the B2 rear O2 sensor readouts were when the ECU set the P0430 code....main items to look for the O2 sensor voltage readout whether hi--above .7 or low--below .5, cat operating temp, cat efficiency % readout. Also check car's wiring looms between sensor to ECU for integrity). Could be setting from excessive oil burning from the PCV system (routes into the driver side of intake manifold just in front of cyl #5 intake runner--#5, #6 & #7 cylinders would get the brunt of any oil that comes thru here--cat efficiency maintenance is another good reason why to use a good oil catch can on a N/A 4.6L engine let alone FI along w\ a good grade of full synthetic motor oil....dino motor oil has a tendency to foam up/vaporize more under heat when agitated & is easier to carry in air stream thru the PCV system than full synthetic motor oil). May also check your driving habits...if you're prone to lugging the engine (pushing throttle past 25%-30% at low engine speeds in 5th gear in certain conditions....not that hard to get into w\ a TR3650 manual trans & a performance tune in ECU) this can set off a P0420/P0430 code as well (know this 1st hand....this is the only reason why I installed CEL eliminators on my car, otherwise my car wouldn't need them & I'm running the same Kooks exhaust setup as you are....but this was before the Lunati VooDoo cam install & following dyno tune--was running the OEM cams at the time--so may be different now but won't know it as I already have CEL eliminators installed. I looked into the option of going w\ the higher cost Kooks Green Cats which are 49 state legal but conferring w\ a well-known reputable national shop they said that the reg Kooks Hi Flo cats are just as good as the Greens but aren't certified--why they're cheaper) due to excessive cat temp output....not hurting the cats per se (Kooks Hi Flo Cat substrates are rated for 1500*F max operating temp range) but this WILL affect the rear O2 sensor operation causing them to operate erratically and/or fail when they get too hot over some amount of time (this is the main reason for cat inefficiency codes using FI, once the sensors go the cats will shortly follow). Lastly might check fueling for overly rich situations while ECU is in closed loop but mostly can be disregarded if car has been tuned as tuner should verify this AS LONG as there are no mechanical failures present (faulty injector(s), fuel pump regulator, etc).
Giving you some things to look into before falling back to using CEL eliminators. First off, IMHO leave the cheap stuff alone & use quality parts from reps who do actual design testing/usage (yeah they'll cost more). The CEL eliminators that were shown in this thread are very good parts that are designed/tested under actual racing conditions & will pretty much work w\o issue as long as you've covered the basics (no vacuum leaks, excessive oil\coolant burning, exhaust leaks ahead of\at sensor location, excessive fueling, wiring integrity, etc). I have the 90* sections w\o the mini cat sections of the Big Daddie's Garage CEL eliminators installed on my car & they work flawlessly but you'll have to lower the mid pipe to get them installed (to clear the unibody and\or trans crossmember). There is a 90* 2-piece CEL eliminator w\ a mini cat in 1st section that can be installed w\o dropping the mid pipe...can be found on eBay (can't remember the name at the moment). IMHO you'll want these parts built out of SS instead of reg steel to prevent eliminator fouling from internal rust buildup from condensation (which also costs more) as well.
1 more thing.....if you always are keeping your foot into it all the time then save yourself some time & keep spare replacement cats on hand as you'll need them sooner than later....CEL eliminators ain't gonna save you from this if you're keeping the ECU in open loop a high % of operating time w\ a performance tune flashed in the ECU...……..
Just saying...…………………….
Hope this helps you out.