New to the s197 crowd . Looking for advice on how to proceed

Dennis5374

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I just picked up a 2005 mustang gt. I’m looking to transform the car into a street/strip monster , and wanna take the best approach possible .

The car has a jlt 110mm air intake , long tubes , pypes catback , Bbk 62mm throttle body , and motion control valve delete . Has a bama tune , which seems to run well, although I had to overwrite it with hptuners to pass inspection.

With my gto , ive learned my lesson , on building something mildly... never again !

Started out life as a 370 inch iron block ls , with twin s369s that made an honest 1150 whp on a conservative tune , it’s now graduated into a 25.3 chassis car , with carbon trunk , dash , roof , doors , hood, Lexan windows , a 431 inch ls next 6 bolt short block , and twin gen2 pt7675s on m1!

I’m sure as most of you know , to build a car of this caliber , it’s cost me 6 figures and thousands of hours worth of time and building the car several different ways , but anyways without further ado...

I’m thinking the best approach would be a mmr short block or long block , 5.0 3v with custom turbo cams , frpp intake manifold , and a set of 120+ lb/hr injectors @ 43 psi.
Twin walbro hellcat 525s in tank , return style system with -10an feed , and a -8an return . Not sure on compression ratio , that works well with these mod motors , and can still make decent power on 93/m1
Without narrowing the tuning window to much .


I do my own fab work in house, so I’ll alleviate some cost for the hot and cold side , as well as intercooler .. I’ll most likely run twin 6266 precision’s , possibly even 6766’s. The goal is to make an honest 1000 whp , and have it still be capable of driving wherever I want to go.

Now here are the things I’m looking for some help on .

15 inch wheels .. I don’t want to spend 5k on a set of weld vitesse and forged front runners “what I run on the goat “

I’m cool with a set of nice looking summit/jegs wheels , that fit these cars and look good “clear brakes , tuck nicely in fender well, etc “

Best suspension setup .. I wanna upgrade the 3 link , as well as beef up the 8.8 , And run the best coilover setup for a manual street strip car . I have a set of afco big gun front struts , that are for 79-04 mustangs , will these work for a s197?

As far as an arb goes , and upgrading the 3 link , which company builds the best parts for double duty? Any other recommended parts for cutting a decenr 60’ with a 6 speed ?

how difficult is it , and what is needed , to swap the 5 speed out for a max effort t56? Who do y’all go to for a m6 Trans that’ll hold up at these power levels ? I’m assuming a mcleod twin disk would be the right choice .

There’s no real budget here , In retrospect id like to keep it under 35-40 “which i entirely see as being reasonable , if not on the high end slightly “

I just want a daily driver , that’s capable of making and putting down 1000whp at the track, that can roam around with the ac on , and still handle and drive decent on the street .

Forgot to add , I have a couple hundred gallons of m1 , and also have a couple hundred gallons of Renegade pro 120+ octane race fuel to boot . No e85 available here unfortunately . Street will see 93/m1 , track will be 120 octane race fuel .

Any and all advice , criticism , is welcomed .. im pretty thick skinned and fluent in sarcasm to boot

Looking forward to seeing everybodies builds and what route y’all take , in the pursuit of maximum smiles per gallon
 

tjm73

of Omicron Persei 8
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MMR has a.......well......how do I put this nicely....hmmmm...shitty rep here. The general consensus is summed up as "FUCK MMR"


I can't offer much on the power front, but 15" wheels from Race Star fit. If you run 10" wide in the back you have to do a small mod to the sway bar bracket but it's well documented someplace here. Otherwise they bolt straight up. There are pics of them on that body style here. Lots of pics.

I'll add if you run Race Star wheels, don't use their lug nuts. They suck and will rust the first time they get wet. When I had my Race Stars I used and posted the part number for McGard lug nuts that fit. They don't rust. Made in the USA. Should be able to find them with a search.
 
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stkjock

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I just want a daily driver , that’s capable of making and putting down 1000whp at the track, that can roam around with the ac on , and still handle and drive decent on the street .
:LMAO:

Stay away from MMR - I've seen way too many issues with their motors. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go.

For an engine I'd suggest L&M Race Engines in Hatboro PA, Mike knows modulars better than anyone.

Twins is a solid choice.

If you're running Methanol - you will need a big upgrade in fuel components, return style will become needed, triple pumps and big injectors.

suspension - get with Kelly @ BMR

For trans a 6060 is a solid choice and plenty can be had w/ parts needed to upgrade the S197 platform

I'd say read a lot of the posts on here by those who have done what you're looking to do.

For 15s - the Racestars are a budget alternative.


Good luck - looking forward to seeing the build
 

01yellerCobra

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1000hp daily? Sounds like a good time to me.

I think a lot of guys that end up going big numbers stick with the stock stroke and bore. Something to look into. The twins will make up for any loss of power in that case I'd think. But any of the engine builders should be able to help you.

And yes, fuck MMR.
 

Sactown

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Don't waste your time with the 3v, get a Coyote aluminator from Ford Racing throw 20psi at it and you will be good to go, assuming you get the rest of the support mods.

I have a built 3v in my car and I have to push it quite a bit more than the guys with a built coyote to make the same power, and like someone said earlier "speed costs money". But if you are set on going with the 3v, I have a set of rods that I would let go cheap, they came out of my car before the last upgrade, they are aluminator rods. I am also be selling my 76/75 precision turbo this winter.


 

Dennis5374

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:LMAO:

Stay away from MMR - I've seen way too many issues with their motors. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go.

For an engine I'd suggest L&M Race Engines in Hatboro PA, Mike knows modulars better than anyone.

Twins is a solid choice.

If you're running Methanol - you will need a big upgrade in fuel components, return style will become needed, triple pumps and big injectors.

suspension - get with Kelly @ BMR

For trans a 6060 is a solid choice and plenty can be had w/ parts needed to upgrade the S197 platform

I'd say read a lot of the posts on here by those who have done what you're looking to do.

For 15s - the Racestars are a budget alternative.


Good luck - looking forward to seeing the build


I had a chance to get under the car today , looks like it has umi control arms , ?panhard bar? :sway bar , still need an arb.. I had a feeling it had some chassis/suspension parts , as it rides like your typical drag car “but much worse with the Shelby razor 20 inch wheels and low pros“

Has a solid clutch and short throw as well.

Runs very good for a bolt on car , it is definitely faster than my stock 4th gen fbody was .

I’m thinking of running biking crusader d/a shocks , they worked excellent on my gto .

:LMAO:

Stay away from MMR - I've seen way too many issues with their motors. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go.

For an engine I'd suggest L&M Race Engines in Hatboro PA, Mike knows modulars better than anyone.

Twins is a solid choice.

If you're running Methanol - you will need a big upgrade in fuel components, return style will become needed, triple pumps and big injectors.

suspension - get with Kelly @ BMR

For trans a 6060 is a solid choice and plenty can be had w/ parts needed to upgrade the S197 platform

I'd say read a lot of the posts on here by those who have done what you're looking to do.

For 15s - the Racestars are a budget alternative.


Good luck - looking forward to seeing the build


I think I worded it wrong bro , but I’d be running meth injection “my gto runs on m1 with a cable driven mechanical pump and 16 injectors .

I also like the pa idea . I refuse to ever have another engine built that isn’t within driving distance “25k dollar build in Houston as we speak , and it’s been 11 months since paying and sending the damn parts ‍♂️“ Being in upstate ny , pa isn’t that bad ..

Don't waste your time with the 3v, get a Coyote aluminator from Ford Racing throw 20psi at it and you will be good to go, assuming you get the rest of the support mods.

I have a built 3v in my car and I have to push it quite a bit more than the guys with a built coyote to make the same power, and like someone said earlier "speed costs money". But if you are set on going with the 3v, I have a set of rods that I would let go cheap, they came out of my car before the last upgrade, they are aluminator rods. I am also be selling my 76/75 precision turbo this winter.





I’d definitely be interested in those rods man .

I assume there is a pm feature on here , like all forums ? If so send me a message.If not , lmk and ill give you my cell .

What 7675 is it ?
As it stands I have twin s366’ , twin s369’ a 7868 ball bearing turbonetics , and twin gen2 7675s for my gto

But I’m always collecting hipo parts .

I had a 600 whp 99 2v 6/7 years ago that was a riot , but I got ripped off by a good friend on a built short block , and abandoned it entirely . It had a forged 2v , cams, intake , novi2000r . Was an awesome car .

The mustang has quite a ways to go to compete with my next fastest vehicle “turbo 12’ Tahoe “ but I think I can make it happen .

Also another aspect to think about , is passing inspections in New York State . Not sure if the coyote will drop in , and run off the 05’ pcm while keeping the obd2 port functional ?
 
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Fabman

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I have an absolutely killer set of stage 3 CNC ported heads and custom ground cams from JDM Engineering.
I made 694/677 with them. (KB 2.6 S/C)
They were recently freshened up at AED and have new valve springs.
2250.00.
 

Midlife Crises

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Sounds like a fun project. A Tremac T56 Mag XL kit from SST will bolt right in with choice of gear ratios and driveline.
 

Fabman

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I have an absolutely killer set of stage 3 CNC ported heads and custom ground cams from JDM Engineering.
I made 694/677 with them. (KB 2.6 S/C)
They were recently freshened up at AED and have new valve springs.
2250.00.
***These heads are sold.
 

Sactown

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I just picked up a 2005 mustang gt. I’m looking to transform the car into a street/strip monster , and wanna take the best approach possible .

The car has a jlt 110mm air intake , long tubes , pypes catback , Bbk 62mm throttle body , and motion control valve delete . Has a bama tune , which seems to run well, although I had to overwrite it with hptuners to pass inspection.

With my gto , ive learned my lesson , on building something mildly... never again !

Started out life as a 370 inch iron block ls , with twin s369s that made an honest 1150 whp on a conservative tune , it’s now graduated into a 25.3 chassis car , with carbon trunk , dash , roof , doors , hood, Lexan windows , a 431 inch ls next 6 bolt short block , and twin gen2 pt7675s on m1!

I’m sure as most of you know , to build a car of this caliber , it’s cost me 6 figures and thousands of hours worth of time and building the car several different ways , but anyways without further ado...

I’m thinking the best approach would be a mmr short block or long block , 5.0 3v with custom turbo cams , frpp intake manifold , and a set of 120+ lb/hr injectors @ 43 psi.
Twin walbro hellcat 525s in tank , return style system with -10an feed , and a -8an return . Not sure on compression ratio , that works well with these mod motors , and can still make decent power on 93/m1
Without narrowing the tuning window to much .


I do my own fab work in house, so I’ll alleviate some cost for the hot and cold side , as well as intercooler .. I’ll most likely run twin 6266 precision’s , possibly even 6766’s. The goal is to make an honest 1000 whp , and have it still be capable of driving wherever I want to go.

Now here are the things I’m looking for some help on .

15 inch wheels .. I don’t want to spend 5k on a set of weld vitesse and forged front runners “what I run on the goat “

I’m cool with a set of nice looking summit/jegs wheels , that fit these cars and look good “clear brakes , tuck nicely in fender well, etc “

Best suspension setup .. I wanna upgrade the 3 link , as well as beef up the 8.8 , And run the best coilover setup for a manual street strip car . I have a set of afco big gun front struts , that are for 79-04 mustangs , will these work for a s197?

As far as an arb goes , and upgrading the 3 link , which company builds the best parts for double duty? Any other recommended parts for cutting a decenr 60’ with a 6 speed ?

how difficult is it , and what is needed , to swap the 5 speed out for a max effort t56? Who do y’all go to for a m6 Trans that’ll hold up at these power levels ? I’m assuming a mcleod twin disk would be the right choice .

There’s no real budget here , In retrospect id like to keep it under 35-40 “which i entirely see as being reasonable , if not on the high end slightly “

I just want a daily driver , that’s capable of making and putting down 1000whp at the track, that can roam around with the ac on , and still handle and drive decent on the street .

Forgot to add , I have a couple hundred gallons of m1 , and also have a couple hundred gallons of Renegade pro 120+ octane race fuel to boot . No e85 available here unfortunately . Street will see 93/m1 , track will be 120 octane race fuel .

Any and all advice , criticism , is welcomed .. im pretty thick skinned and fluent in sarcasm to boot

Looking forward to seeing everybodies builds and what route y’all take , in the pursuit of maximum smiles per gallon

Honestly, Your best approach would be to purchase my car, I am seriously considering selling it, it is a turbo upgrade from running mid 7's in the quarter.
 

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