5R55S Tuner Suggestions?

TheDarkPath

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Hello everyone,

I searched and haven't been able to find anything recent on who the preferred Tuners are for S197s with the 5R55S. The guy who did my Dyno tune in 2012 stopped tuning and Doug from the original Bamachips doesn't seem to be around any longer (he did my original tunes but before my Circle D TC). I have been out of the car arena for a while but getting back in now. My mods are:
2006 Mustang GT Auto
Corsa, axle backs, UDP, BMR (Swaybar del, LCA, adj. UCA, adj. PH bar, springs, A Arms), Tokico D-Specs, C&L Street, 4.10s, Race Star wheels, Offroad H, Spydershaft, Circle D 3600 stall
Best ET: 12.306 @ 107.15 - 60': 1.68 - 300.1 RWHP/317.9 RWTQ

Is there a tuner out there who will do email tunes who specializes in the 5R55S still? I'll data log for them if needed as well to dial it in.

I'm also open to a local tuner in or around Houston, TX.

My handheld tuner is an old SCT xcal 2 so anything new I get will likely require me to upgrade which would essentially mean I need all new tunes.
 

Pentalab

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I had Justin at VMP in Florida tune my 2010 auto (4.6 L + 5r55s ). Mine has a Roush M90 blower + Lt's, twin 62mm TB, etc.

I use a X3. Had him do a 94 octane tune...+ 5r55s. ( 396 rwhp / 380 rwtq. )

The shifts on the 5r55s are superb.... vs Roush tune. With the blower engaged, the shifts have to be firmer..and faster. I bought the X3 from VMP with eng/auto tranny tune installed. Then 2 minor tweaks for AFR / LT's.

On the X3, I can adjust shift firmness....on a shift by shift basis. And also the actual shift point in rpm.....again on an individual shift by shift basis. IE: 1-2.... 2-3....3-4....4-5

I have not had to tweak either firmness or shift points. He nailed it right out of the gate. BUT, the option is there for the end user to fine tune, +/-......if required. Mine is just a street car. He has had the 5r55s tune down to a fine art for > 10 yrs.
 

JJ427R

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Very similar to what Pentalab did I got thru JDM Engineering and have almost identical results with my 2010 Roush, so they are another option if VMP doesn't work out.
http://www.teamjdm.com/
 

08MustangDude

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The 5R55S does not have a separate control module. My tuner has a firm
shift option, and shift point editing, which is good enough. For a 2006, your
limited by the two servos, the O/D and Intermediate. They can only apply
so fast, and are a common failure point to begin with. You don't want any
or a lot of slip at those bands, so the faster, the better. HOWEVER, many people
do NOT know you need to adjust them as they wear. The 5R55S has two
adjustments for the bands.
5r55w_10.jpg

The servo bores are the weak point. If you want a performance trans, then you need it
rebuilt with the fixes and updated parts. Tuning is a short-term fix...

The 2011+ transmissions are not the same...
 

Derf08

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There is also levelten Level 10) transmissions. They don't advertise the tunes but, if you contact them, they will provide information on their transmission only tunes.
 

08MustangDude

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Tuning it doesn't fix the faults... They can only handle so much
torque, tuning it won't matter without updating the internals anyway.
Best you can tune is for FIRM shifting, and you're limited to how fast
the bands and solenoids can be applied. The bands will be the weakest
part unless you replace them, or adjust them on a driven trans..

There are plenty of rebuild and shift correction kits that should be considered
prior to tuning the trans.
 

JJ427R

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I have spoken with Monster Transmission on the 5r55 as I have a serious problem overheating mine when running it on the track, they said even if I rebuild this trans I will more than likely still have the same overheating issues. They said the 5r55 is probably one of the weakest trans Ford has ever built. They recommended I go to the 6 speed. I have no interest in doing the 6 speed swap so at this point I'll probably run it until it dies then rebuild it. I have almost 60,000 miles, 25 track days, and a couple drag nights on it and it's still going..... so for one of Ford's weakest trans it's hung in there quite well.
I have the larger Performance Automatic Pan, JDM Engineering Overflow Catch Can, and a B&M Racing 20,500 btu cooler and I still overheat the trans, at that point it starts shifting itself into overdrive.

I run an automatic because I drive with hand controls.

Forgot to add I have also upgraded the cooling for Radiator and HE, I have the Kenny Brown/Fluidyne triple pass triple flow for both.
 
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08MustangDude

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The Dodge/Chrysler A604 ultradrive was also weak, as far as heat is concerned. That is easily
corrected with a larger cooler.

The problem here is, the cooler is all you have. So, idling without the fans on, temps
rise. Trans temps fluctuate too much with just a cooler. To fix this, you get a radiator
with a trans cooler. You run through that first, then through the trans cooler, which
is an AUX cooler now. Mount that trans cooler in FRONT of the A/C condenser, not
between it and the radiator.

The first thing I did with my 2000 Avenger ES, was add a medium duty aux cooler after the rad.
Ran that car 153,000+ miles, never had a transmission failure, and I towed a boat with it for two
years. The cooler, I mounted right in front, where cross-hair opening in the bumper cover was.
Mine had a warning right on the dipstick not to exceed 170- degrees, which was nearly impossible
with how they're set up from the factory. This cooler I added to this car is about the same
size as the factory mustang one on mine.

I had a 2007 Charger, and it had a separate, stand alone cooler like the Mustang does, except it was
over twice the size as this Mustang one. It was twice as high, and ran the length of the radiator, also
behind the condenser. Temps were great with this, except idle.

Mustang:
Replace the Rad with one that has the trans cooler hook ups.
Run the trans into the rad, then into a FRONT mounted aux cooler.
Factory cooler is about a medium duty, use a heavy duty cooler.

You can take temp readings now, then watch how they lower and stabilize with the
change.

OR, at the very least, replace the OE cooler with a bigger one, and mount it in front
of the condenser. You can even put a push aux fan on it, and use a simple temp
probe with relay to turn it on at 175 degrees or so.

170 degrees is where you want to be with any automatic. Mine averages 173 while
cruising, Has gone up to 180+ idle, 194 up hill with the fans off, and that's too high.
I Want to change the cooling to what I want, RAD then Cooler, but need to find the
rad that will fit...
 

Pentalab

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The Dodge/Chrysler A604 ultradrive was also weak, as far as heat is concerned. That is easily
corrected with a larger cooler.

The problem here is, the cooler is all you have. So, idling without the fans on, temps
rise. Trans temps fluctuate too much with just a cooler. To fix this, you get a radiator
with a trans cooler. You run through that first, then through the trans cooler, which
is an AUX cooler now. Mount that trans cooler in FRONT of the A/C condenser, not
between it and the radiator.

The first thing I did with my 2000 Avenger ES, was add a medium duty aux cooler after the rad.
Ran that car 153,000+ miles, never had a transmission failure, and I towed a boat with it for two
years. The cooler, I mounted right in front, where cross-hair opening in the bumper cover was.
Mine had a warning right on the dipstick not to exceed 170- degrees, which was nearly impossible
with how they're set up from the factory. This cooler I added to this car is about the same
size as the factory mustang one on mine.

I had a 2007 Charger, and it had a separate, stand alone cooler like the Mustang does, except it was
over twice the size as this Mustang one. It was twice as high, and ran the length of the radiator, also
behind the condenser. Temps were great with this, except idle.

Mustang:
Replace the Rad with one that has the trans cooler hook ups.
Run the trans into the rad, then into a FRONT mounted aux cooler.
Factory cooler is about a medium duty, use a heavy duty cooler.

You can take temp readings now, then watch how they lower and stabilize with the
change.

OR, at the very least, replace the OE cooler with a bigger one, and mount it in front
of the condenser. You can even put a push aux fan on it, and use a simple temp
probe with relay to turn it on at 175 degrees or so.

170 degrees is where you want to be with any automatic. Mine averages 173 while
cruising, Has gone up to 180+ idle, 194 up hill with the fans off, and that's too high.
I Want to change the cooling to what I want, RAD then Cooler, but need to find the
rad that will fit...

JJ427R and I both have a 2010 GT automatic with the Roush M90 blower. He has the smaller blower pulley..with more boost. I have ceramic LT's, hi flow catted H, and a full 2.5" ID H, twin 62mm TB, + 94 tune. He has a tiny bit more hp.

On idle, the 5r55s will eventually get up to 120 F. Start driving... and eventually the 5r55s gets up to 170 F.... and stays put...doesn't budge. (winter or summer). Mash the gas on the hwy, blower on, down into 3rd gear... and tranny temps shoot up to 200 F.... in a mere 5-8 secs ! And this was AFTER I installed the same PA 2.1" deeper al pan..which holds an extra 4 qts of ATF. Also had switched to RP 100% synthetic ATF. And also a JDM catch can. Oem fubar upper grille tossed, and replaced with a 7 bar grille. Top rad cover is a mishimoto, which has an offset on front portion, which forces more air through the radS.

So in went the B+M 13K BTU tranny cooler, which is a bar + plate type, 3/4" thick... and sits directly below the oem 10K BTU tranny cooler. Plumbed so atf goes through oem rad 1st.... then the B+M rad. The B+M rads uses an integral T stat..which works on viscosity of the ATF.

OK, once the temp gets up to 170F.... stays put, doesn't budge. From 40-50 mph, Mash gas, blower on, down into 3rd gear.... and the highest it gets to is 171 or 172F...even at 120 mph..(in 4th).

In jj427r's case, he cut a portion of the front bumper...to get his 20.5 K BTU tranny cooler to fit. His sits in FRONT of the 18" tall x 21" wide Roush HE. But he's running on 4 mile road courses, look at his video's.... 137 mph. Blower is on for a huge chunk of each lap. He's either hard on the gas...or hard on the brakes.

He also has the 7 bar upper grille... AND hood ventS. His only option left is to install 1-2 13 k btu B+M coolers below OEM cooler. (then he would have a total of 43.5 to 56.5 K BTU).

I looked at those tranny coolers, that reside at base of eng rad...that u spoke of. They are integral with the eng rad. They also result in a net loss of eng rad area.
IMO, their only advantage is to get the ATF up to 170 F faster. The coolant in the eng rad portion is 205-220 F. That's not gonna help cool atf any time soon. Moot point, since none are available for the 05-10 auto GT's.

The eng fan IS on high speed mode. The low/high speed oem eng fan threshold is fully adjustable via the SCT X3/X4. Any time you have air coming up through the very top vent...(next to glass).... the eng fan on a 2010 defaults to high speed anyway. (regardless whether AC is on..or OFF... and Regardless of speed of cabin fan. On idle, in driveway, the air just screams through the 7 bar upper grille.

Real fix would be to replace oem auto tranny cooler.... with a bar+ plate type... that is the same width as oem...or slightly wider...... but full height top to bottom. I calculated 50-52K BTU. But they don't exist...... would have to be a custom build.
 
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08MustangDude

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You also have the larger pan cooling effect, bigger heat-sink like action...

Trans coolers IN rad are side, older ones are at the bottom. None may
be available as OE, but you can put in if you really wanted to.

You only need enough to keep at 170, and not much higher that 178.

IT takes longer for the trans to heat up with just an aux cooler, that can also
be detrimental. That's why they have a pressure bypass valve that's open
till the fluid warms up.

Just ad another cooler to the one that's there, or get a bigger one. I will
always stick with the in rad, then to cooler design. I never had a trans failure,
so apparently what I do, works. Do what you want to your own vehicle, we
all have our opinions. I stick with what has been working. If I find a rad I
can put in with a trans cooler, it's going in.
 

JJ427R

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I do still have the factory trans cooler hooked up as well. My B&M cooler is front mounted in front of radiator. Prior I also tried a Mishimoto cooler with a fan but that caused negative back pressure on the radiator so did not allow that to cool properly. With my HE and all the plumbing for that there is no room for an additional cooler. My trans will run at 160-170 under daily driving conditions, even running 1/4 mile for a few runs, that's not the problem, running it on track is where I run into issues I'll usually get about three 20-25 minute sessions before its start to heats up, I've had it up to 250* and before I had the overflow catch can it blew fluid out all over the bottom of my car. Oddly enough with my M90 pushing 9lbs boost my engine does not overheat, just the trans. But all that heat from the SC definitely contributes to the problem as it all transfers down thru the engine to the trans. I also have the Roush 7 bar grille and MMD Hood vents. I've done about all I can for the cooling.

I have a similar issue on my 2018 GT PP1 going into limp mode while running it on track. Have another thread on here for that and also on facebook on the Track Mustangs Online page.

Thanks Pentalab for the info you posted as well....
 

808muscle

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06 GT Auto with a m90, LTs etc.....also have the PA deep pan and JDM trans catch can. Car has well over 600 passes and I rarely ever see temps go above 175'. My car is my dedicated bracket racer so consistency is everything. I dont have any extra cooling rads for the trans. I do have an Afco dual fan HE for the blower and THAT made a huge difference in keeping the blower cooler. I live in the tropics and never see 180's trans temps on the roads either. I cannot imagine why your trans temps are so high when you have the exact setup as me....except for the trans rad. Wonder if thats hurting more than helping?
 

JJ427R

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The big difference is you are running a 1/4 mile at a time, you are not on it hard for 20-25 minutes straight. Also how much cool down time between runs? I ran at BIR Wed night drags and did 7 passes within a couple hours with no issue either. Usually at track days you get hour to an hour and a half for the car to cool down between sessions which surprisingly is not that long, especially on hot days. Road America is a 4 mile track, I usually get about 8 laps per session, that's 32 miles I'm running at a time and not a flat surface, RA you have hills to go up and down. You also get all the heat generated from the brakes and tires that add to this problem that you don't get on a drag strip or on the street.
 

Pentalab

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The big difference is you are running a 1/4 mile at a time, you are not on it hard for 20-25 minutes straight. Also how much cool down time between runs? I ran at BIR Wed night drags and did 7 passes within a couple hours with no issue either. Usually at track days you get hour to an hour and a half for the car to cool down between sessions which surprisingly is not that long, especially on hot days. Road America is a 4 mile track, I usually get about 8 laps per session, that's 32 miles I'm running at a time and not a flat surface, RA you have hills to go up and down. You also get all the heat generated from the brakes and tires that add to this problem that you don't get on a drag strip or on the street.

Post that u tube link u had up for RA, (depicting ur in car camera) the 4 mile version... where they use the dragstrip as part of the course. Then they will get the concept. 20-25 mins..and most of it wot. Once the ATF gets up to 235 F.... ( + the extra 4 qts)..... it's gonna take a helluva long time for it to cool down...... atf is not like eng coolant. ATF retains heat better.

jj427r's tranny temps get so hot, the ecu puts the 5r55s into OD (5th)..in an attempt to lower eng rpm's... and save the tranny. (Even though he as the OD shut off. And if he shuts off the OD, ecu puts it back into OD).

The folks who road course their 2011+ GT's (manual tranny) that monitor their ENG OIL temps, often report 320+ F..... even though cyl head temps + eng coolant temps are normal. So in goes the eng oil rad.
I'd like to know how hot the eng oil gets up to on the 4.6 with a PD blower. That's 1 item I can't currently monitor.

The problem with the 05-10 cars is there is little room left for more coolers. We have that damned pwr steering cooler... which is jammed between base of roush HE..and base of AC rad behind it.
 
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JJ427R

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That video is actually BIR but still on the 3.1 mile track, 25 minute sessions. Down the dragstrip I was burying my needle at 140. Guy in a Shelby following me said he was doing 150 and I was pulling away.... I've had cars pass me there at 175 mph.... :) That is almost a 1 mile straight..... 130 mph thru turn 1
 
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