MGW Shifter v Hurst Shifter

Mrjfk65

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I have a Hurst shifter in my 2008 GT. It is hard and sometimes impossible to make the shift between 2-3 on hard acceleration. (At anything above 5,000 PRM)


I’ve read a mountain of information that suggests going to the MGW shifter is the way to solve it. I've also read posts to suggest a Blowfish Bracket will solve it as it reduces the torque that twists the transmission.


My question, what is fundamentally different between the Hurst and the MGW that gives the MGW the advantage?
 

1950StangJump$

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OP, to answer your question directly, the MGW is a beefy, precise unit. When I got my 08 GT, I wasn't having the 1-2 or 2-3 issues per sae, but I quickly changed out the Hurst that was in the car for an MGW. The quality difference is significant and obvious. I now have the T56, and I have considered putting an MGW on it for no other reason than I love how they feel.

As for helping with the 1-2 or 2-3 problem . . . the idea is that with both MGW and the blowfish bracket, they are allowing for my precise gear engagement. Theoretically, that would help with shifting issues. But, if you scour the internet enough, you'll see that it's not going to help much (or for long) if your problem is synco issues.
 

ghunt81

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I used to have a Hurst in my car. To be honest those things are junk, on mine the bottom dust boot tore after just a couple years of use- after that the shifter pivot got dirt in it and after maybe 3 years of use it had a ton of slop in it.

Also worth noting, after I swapped in my Tri-Ax, I noticed the Hurst has an extremely short throw on it. I had a long shift handle on my Hurst that worked pretty well, but on the Tri-Ax it was like rowing a boat. Might be why the shifts are hard to make.
 

Mrjfk65

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Wait, Beefier? I was hoping to hear it attached to the transmission in a different way or in a way that helped to deflect the torque so that it would not bind.


Yeah, I have probably scoured the internet too much, because I’ve seen theories (outside of going MGW) that go from replacing the clutch to changing transmission fluid to rebuilding the transmission.



I have Long tube headers so the K Member brace might not fit… I need to confirm that with CHE.



I’m wondering how many folks switched to MGW from stock or Hurst and it corrected there issue?
 

1950StangJump$

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All of those things . . . MGW, blowfish bracket, fluid, throw-out bearing, clutch . . . contribute to a different shifting experience and could, in theory, help you problem.

For instance, I tried several fluids in the 3650 back-to-back, and the Pennzoil Syncromesh was the smoothest. The MGW shifts, by being beefier and more exact, are more precise for a more accurate engagement. The Blowfish keeps flex out from the remote shifter and allows more accurate engagement. A new throw-out bearing or pressure plate might help with the clutch disengagement during gear shifts.

But, it's my opinion that the problem is more likely the syncros.
 

Mrjfk65

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I bought this used with 67,000 miles on it. The rest of the car is in very good shape, so i had always assumed the previous owner took care of it, and was a decent driver....

That said? Sometimes the car grinds going really slow speeds 2-3 sfift. Rpms at 2-2500
 

1950StangJump$

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I bought this used with 67,000 miles on it. The rest of the car is in very good shape, so i had always assumed the previous owner took care of it, and was a decent driver....

That said? Sometimes the car grinds going really slow speeds 2-3 sfift. Rpms at 2-2500

If it does it when shifting slowly, you know its not because the transmission or remote mounted shifter are being "flexed." So, that rules out the Blowfish making much difference, IMO.

The MGW, if bought new is $400ish. Syncromesh will run you $20. Maybe try both of them and see if it works. If not, your next decision point will be whether you try a clutch assembly or look to have the transmission pulled . . . or replaced.
 

Midlife Crises

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I installed an MGW shifter in my 2010 GT. It is a very nice shifter. The throw is adjustable and it comes with much stiffer mounting bushings. It is more precise than stock but it did not prevent me from beating the synchros out of the 3650. Eventually second gear began to grind and third was blocked at high RPM. If you are experiencing this a new shifter will not fix it.
 

WJBertrand

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The key difference, besides the quality and beefiness, is that the MGW (an older version with the blowfish bracket) or the newer ones are that they are mounted directly to the transmission instead of to the body. This means the shifter always stays in alignment with the transmission, when it moves about under torque.


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Norm Peterson

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The link between the shifter and the transmission shift rail proper can apparently develop play that can perhaps be reduced by a different shifter or shifter mounting but not eliminated.

Shifter, TR3650.jpg

I installed a MGW shifter a couple of years ago. It's a nice piece, though I personally found that even the longest throw setting to be too short and too notchy for me. Just so you know, I'm really a sports car/road course kind of driver so I shift pretty deliberately (you can say 'slow' and it won't bother me). While the new-found precision was nice, the new-found feel was not, and I ended up making my own shift lever extension piece that fixed those downsides without losing the precision. Maybe these pictures will help somebody else.
MGW's, mine, Ford's,.jpg

Modified shift lever as initially installed.jpg

Modified shift lever (extended with the metal bits covered).JPG



But I'm about one phone call away from swapping out the MGW - along with the TR3650 that it's connected to and that now-somewhat sloppy link that's between them - for a Magnum XL. Not for the power capability (that's staying right where it is with the FRPP tune), but for the closer 2-3 and 4-5 gear ratio spacings, which in the TR3650 are really too wide to be worth much out on a road course where the corners aren't slow enough for 2nd to be useful and grabbing 5th on the longer straights makes the car fall on its face. Be nice to have nearly 45 mph available in 1st against a 6000 rpm redline, too.


Norm
 
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Mackitude

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Not to complicate things, but I switched from the Hurst to the Barton in my 2010 GT, and apart from a much better fit in the 2010 (the tunnel opening is farther back and the Barton is adjustable for this, you flip it around) the Barton is also much firmer, with a shorter stick (altho the Hurst's height did solve the cupholder placement issue, but I got over that quickly), and I feel like shifts are easier and more positive. I do have a little left to right slop that I hear can be solved by replacing the bushing where the shifter linkage connects the the tranny (not part of any aftermarket shifter). Anyone replace that in theirs?

2012-07-17_17-50-09_906.jpg

IMG_0599.jpg
 

Lime1Gt

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I don't think Hurst ever claimed to fix the lockout issue with misalignment of powertrain to body under high rpm. They just say it reduces shift throw by 40% and looks good. You bought a shifter to reduce throw but at the same time it increases the amount of effort required to shift. That's why it feels hard or the lubricant has dried up in the shifter. I had a Hurst in my 05 GT. Loved the look; would of preferred maybe a 25% throw reduction instead for less effort. Yes, the trans still missed high rpm shifts. On my new 17 GT, I installed the Blowfish shifter bracket to isolate the powertrain from the body and haven't missed a shift yet and the stock shifter feels more solid. Just my opinion, I would try the; https://www.blowfishracing.com/driv...mustang-gt-tr3650-shifter-support-kit-v2.html
before investing more money into another shifter first. This is of coarse is unless you no longer want the Hurst and can find a shifter that also separates the powertrain from the body as WJBertrand stated in previous post.
 

skwerl

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I was one of the first purchasers of the Blowfish bracket when they went into production. Had it in my car for 2 weeks before removing it. The increased vibration in the shifter handle was irritating and I still missed shifts at the dragstrip. Lucky for me there was still much more demand than supply for the Blowfish bracket and I was able to sell it easily.

The MGW shifters are very nice and you won't find a better shifter. Unfortunately the TR3650 is just a mediocre transmission used by Ford in the Mustang because they had to meet a budget. If you have problems with the MGW then your only real solution is swapping the transmission because nothing else is going to make the TR3650 any better.
 

Mrjfk65

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Thanks guys!!! As always, I really appreciate the feedback. I bought a used MGW for $200 and plan on installing it in the next couple of weeks.

One final question, does the Hurst Shifter mount to the body or the transmission?

I bought the car used with the Hurst already in it, so I don't know.
 
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justin73

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I have a brand new mgw shifter I’m selling. Paid 400 for it. Reason why I’m selling it is because trading in car for 2020 mustang got. It has never been installed. Sell it for 350.


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Midlife Crises

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All the shifters I have seen for the 3650 mount to the transition and the body in the S197.
 

ghunt81

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One final question, does the Hurst Shifter mount to the body or the transmission?

I bought the car used with the Hurst already in it, so I don't know.

Far as I've seen they all mount to the body on the rear of the shifter as that's how the factory was designed...some just use different methods of doing that than others.
 

Norm Peterson

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