What have you done to your mustang today?

fdjizm

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20190905_121343-jpg.70697
What MAF housing is that attached to the C&L intake?
I like that it's plastic and want it right meow.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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All put back together and painted (post #25775). Spent the last few days detailing, put in a tow hook and other odds and ends. Had to get my daily driver in the pic as well. :onfire:

View attachment 70695

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View attachment 70697
How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternator :shrug:
 
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scramblr

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How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternator :shrug:

Worked previously with the Prothane lower mounts. Then switched to the BMR K-member with lower mounts. Cleared the alternator with either no problem, but having the GT500 T/B does cause contact on the first band of the silicone reducer with the hood. You can see right behind the C&L emblem where the band rubs with the hood. I need a blue silicone reducer, but the cheapest I found is $65. :doggy:
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Worked previously with the Prothane lower mounts. Then switched to the BMR K-member with lower mounts. Cleared the alternator with either no problem, but having the GT500 T/B does cause contact on the first band of the silicone reducer with the hood. You can see right behind the C&L emblem where the band rubs with the hood. I need a blue silicone reducer, but the cheapest I found is $65. :doggy:

I did notice where the first band of the silicone reducer does make contact with the hood and it would appear that it's from the larger GT500 T/B as you mentioned. I also noticed from the image you posted that you also have the "Ford Performance Lightning 90mm MAF" which I assume you purchased from JDM engineering? I used to have the Steeda 90mm MAF CAI on my previous "05" GT which is almost exactly identical to your FP Lightning 90mm MAF" Perhaps if I had held onto my Steeda 90mm CAI, it might have raised the height of the C&L inlet tube enough to clear the relocation of the stock alternator from the Saleen VI blower? I also considered swapping out the stock motor mounts for the Prothane lower mounts but was concerned that having a lowered suspension may cause possible clearance issues, so in the end, I decided to stick with the stock motor mounts. Unless the stock Saleen 98mm MAF airbox is considered as a huge airflow restriction when compared to running a conical, open filter design? I might just as well leave the stock Saleen airbox system in place anyhow lol. At any rate, perhaps you might be able to locate a blue silicone reducer from Steeda Autosports for less than $65 :shrug:Anyway, here are images of my previous "05" GT with the Steeda 90mm CAI.

picture_php_pictureid_29917_7047aaa1ef65c6b4116bcc5c1060b8837b1643ee.jpg picture_php_pictureid_29912_d9504aacda51a406aadd207a6b3bdea591e637b6.jpg
 

scramblr

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I did notice where the first band of the silicone reducer does make contact with the hood and it would appear that it's from the larger GT500 T/B as you mentioned. I also noticed from the image you posted that you also have the "Ford Performance Lightning 90mm MAF" which I assume you purchased from JDM engineering? I used to have the Steeda 90mm MAF CAI on my previous "05" GT which is almost exactly identical to your FP Lightning 90mm MAF" Perhaps if I had held onto my Steeda 90mm CAI, it might have raised the height of the C&L inlet tube enough to clear the relocation of the stock alternator from the Saleen VI blower? I also considered swapping out the stock motor mounts for the Prothane lower mounts but was concerned that having a lowered suspension may cause possible clearance issues, so in the end, I decided to stick with the stock motor mounts. Unless the stock Saleen 98mm MAF airbox is considered as a huge airflow restriction when compared to running a conical, open filter design? I might just as well leave the stock Saleen airbox system in place anyhow lol. At any rate, perhaps you might be able to locate a blue silicone reducer from Steeda Autosports for less than $65 :shrug:Anyway, here are images of my previous "05" GT with the Steeda 90mm CAI.

View attachment 70770 View attachment 70771

Yeas, the Lightning MAF from JDM. Also lowered with Steeda springs 1" upfront and 1.5" in the back. I'll take a pic of the alternator clearance in a bit.

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06 T-RED S/C GT

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Washed it.... underneath! [emoji854][emoji15][emoji848]
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You sure did an awesome job washing it all up underneath, which is exactly what I need to do with mine lol. Btw: who's the manufacturer of your hood? as it definitely doesn't look like the stock GT hood. it's also good to know that you have no clearance issues with the Prothane lower mounts and Steeda lowering springs. In the meantime, looking forward to seeing the pic of the alternator clearance when you post it :waytogo:
 

scramblr

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You sure did an awesome job washing it all up underneath, which is exactly what I need to do with mine lol. Btw: who's the manufacturer of your hood? as it definitely doesn't look like the stock GT hood. it's also good to know that you have no clearance issues with the Prothane lower mounts and Steeda lowering springs. In the meantime, looking forward to seeing the pic of the alternator clearance when you post it :waytogo:

Had to...rear main seal's been leaking for some time and made a mess underneath as it was my daily driver. Got that fixed along with a new clutch/FW, but the whole underneath was nasty. More better now....

Hood is stock. Just put the MMD Hood Louvers on it which do not conform to the hood at all. Both front outside corners keep lifting and this is after applying them twice with 3M tape. AM said it's because of the heat here in Texas. Eh...whatever. I said fuck it and going to drill holes in the corners and put some joint connector bolts on them. They won't lift after that. LOL... I'll get that pic of the alternator tomorrow when I'm drilling into the hood....again.
 

scramblr

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How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternator :shrug:
Here are the pics.

The first one I couldn't get the camera low enough on the front, but the second shows there's enough room.
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06 T-RED S/C GT

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Here are the pics.

The first one I couldn't get the camera low enough on the front, but the second shows there's enough room.
363d9a6be7111b1e973ccb43af81e68c.jpg
4be45d9cb4184a1e7e8f92fb0b4abfbb.jpg


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My apologies for taking so long to reply back, had to reformat and reinstall windows 7 on the PC due to file corruption issues. On a lighter note, finally got to look at your alternator clearance pics and was curious if you replaced your alternator with the 2010 Denso unit or if it's the original OEM one? From the images you posted, it appears the alternator cable is well below the original location of the stock alternator? The plug location on my stock unit sits nearly right on top of the alternator which made direct contact with the underside of the C&L inlet tube. So I was also curious if you had the stock alternator re-clocked in order to provide enough clearance for the underside of the C&L inlet tube? Otherwise, if not? then it would appear that replacing the stock alternator with the 2010 Denso unit may be the possible solution for addressing the clearance issues :shrug:In the meantime, thank you for taking and posting the clearance pics of your C&L inlet tube and alternator :waytogo:
 

scramblr

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My apologies for taking so long to reply back, had to reformat and reinstall windows 7 on the PC due to file corruption issues. On a lighter note, finally got to look at your alternator clearance pics and was curious if you replaced your alternator with the 2010 Denso unit or if it's the original OEM one? From the images you posted, it appears the alternator cable is well below the original location of the stock alternator? The plug location on my stock unit sits nearly right on top of the alternator which made direct contact with the underside of the C&L inlet tube. So I was also curious if you had the stock alternator re-clocked in order to provide enough clearance for the underside of the C&L inlet tube? Otherwise, if not? then it would appear that replacing the stock alternator with the 2010 Denso unit may be the possible solution for addressing the clearance issues :shrug:In the meantime, thank you for taking and posting the clearance pics of your C&L inlet tube and alternator :waytogo:

It's a PA Performance alternator. And yes, re-clocked it. I can't even remember what a stock alternator looks like, so maybe that's why you were having clearance issues. Pretty you can re-clock the stock one as well.

This is from tmcolegr:

· Remove pulley. Remove the 3 machine screws holding alternator housings together. CAREFULLY tap on front housing (pulley end) to loosen it from center section of alternator. Do NOT allow center section to loosen from rear frame. Rotate front frame of alternator counter clockwise (when viewed from the front/pulley end) 120 degrees. Reassemble in reverse order.
 

ghunt81

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You guys ever noticed how much the exhaust expands on these cars as it gets hot? I swear I've never noticed this on another car I've had, but on this one it must gain 1/2" in length once the car is up to operating temps.

Mostly noticed because the hanger on my driver's side muffler, which is fine when the car is cold, makes contact with the metal behind it when the car is warmed up. Sigh...
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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It's a PA Performance alternator. And yes, re-clocked it. I can't even remember what a stock alternator looks like, so maybe that's why you were having clearance issues. Pretty you can re-clock the stock one as well.

This is from tmcolegr:

· Remove pulley. Remove the 3 machine screws holding alternator housings together. CAREFULLY tap on front housing (pulley end) to loosen it from center section of alternator. Do NOT allow center section to loosen from rear frame. Rotate front frame of alternator counter clockwise (when viewed from the front/pulley end) 120 degrees. Reassemble in reverse order.
I think your right about the stock alternator as being the cause for the clearance issues I was having with the C&L inlet tube. Being that my stock alternator is 13 years old, it's only a matter of time before its going to need replaced anyhow, so rather than take the risk of something going wrong by attempting to re-clock the stock alternator myself, I'll just replace it by upgrading to the Motorcraft 2010 Denso alternator thru Department Of Boost.
 

scramblr

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I think your right about the stock alternator as being the cause for the clearance issues I was having with the C&L inlet tube. Being that my stock alternator is 13 years old, it's only a matter of time before its going to need replaced anyhow, so rather than take the risk of something going wrong by attempting to re-clock the stock alternator myself, I'll just replace it by upgrading to the Motorcraft 2010 Denso alternator thru Department Of Boost.
You'll still need to clock it unless they'll do it for you.

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06 T-RED S/C GT

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So in your honest opinion, would you recommend replacing the stock Saleen 98mm MAF airbox system in favor of the Steeda 90mm MAF CAI with C&L racer inlet tube? However, if upgrading from the Saleen 98mm airbox setup isn't going to provide a noticeable increase in airflow and HP? then I really can't see any reason for making the switch, to begin with for just a marginal or very little gain in performance. Anyhow, just saying :shrug:
 
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