Can't figure out this vibration issue

high current = large sized leads

either or both connectors would work but this will kill power to the motor, and the rack will still function without assist.

So I have some kind of update...

I took the car to grab lunch earlier. When I got back and pulled into the parking space I noticed the ever so faintest of clunks when I turned to wheel to straight. After playing with the wheel back and forth for a bit I noticed that the clunk is definitely repeatable. Not sure why I never noticed this before but it is very slight so I guess I can see how I overlooked it.

Should have more on this when I have a partner to turn the wheel for me to see if I can locate the source of said "clunk." It is so quiet I am not yet convinced it's part of the problem and it might just be normal operation of the rack.

Probably the upper strut bearings

I once called vorshlag about the noise and bad ride in these cars

"just get a bmw! That's why they are called the ultimate driving machine!"

I decided to get an Ibis Ripley instead.

eighty6gt said:

Probably the upper strut bearings

Click to expand...

I'll look into that

I decided to get an Ibis Ripley instead.

Click to expand...

Hey man, you can't beat the gas mileage

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/

call these guys. Jack Hidley runs the place I think.

eighty6gt said:

high current = large sized leads

either or both connectors would work but this will kill power to the motor, and the rack will still function without assist.

Click to expand...

I believe the epas uses a 135A fuse. Just pull the fuse.

it's.. kind of bolted on etc.. I'd rather unhook the harness.

eighty6gt said:

Probably the upper strut bearings

Click to expand...

I used the Steeda HD adjustable camber strut mounts. These are a lot better than the oem strut mounts. I tweaked the steeda HD mounts for max negative camber. Steeda has a 5/8" bearing. The Vorshlag uses a 3/4" bearing.

my steeda mounts are garbage. They came with incorrect O rings I had to replace, and the seat for the rhs thrust bearing was too shallow, allowing the seat shim to displace and break. It still functions, for now.

Well, after more research I've come to the conclusion that it must be the rack. I realized I truly had no idea how the EPAS worked, as I always thought it was just a version of traditional hydraulic assist but with an electric pump. Yeah, oops. That explains why I could never find the pump assembly....

Anyway, I've been noticing more steering drift lately as well which seems to have gotten worse since trying to diagnose the mysterious "clunk" that I mentioned. The clunk I thought was a loose tie rod but I've since learned that it only happens when the steering wheel crosses center. If I turn a lot to one side or the other and then start to turn back it won't do it, but will always do it when it crosses center by about a quarter turn either direction.

Additionally the steering drift seems to be accompanied by a large amount of slack at center which is why I'm drifting all over the road. I can't help but feel like the two issues are related. I also believe this is what's causing the shakiness in the steering as it's allowing for too much movement in the toe position of the tires causing an imbalance/wobble.

A lot of this of course sounds like loose tie rods but after inspecting for any "play" in the front end by jacking up one side and checking for in/out movement, I can't detect any slop between the two front wheels, they seem to be married nice and tight.

So point being, all of this had led me to the only reasonable conclusion - it's time for a new EPAS unit. Now seeing as I do not have $1000 bucks laying around lol, I do have a few hundred on my amazon card so I'm thinking about this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9NFTPF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_XBvyDbHY2M9YY

Has anyone heard of this brand? They claim lifetime unlimited miles warranty, so that's assuring... Also does anyone have suggestions on the 17" vs 18" vs 19" wheels based racks? Since my car was base V6, my OEM unit should be the 17" non performance version but I have heard the 18" has a better feel, and I believe this particular unit is for the 18". Any thoughts on that?

Well after further research on the EPAS issue, I stumbled accross the Vorshlag thread and have conclusively determined that to be the issue. So thanks to everyone who pointed me in that direction

I have decided to bite the bullet and just take out a small loan to get the M-3200-EPAS and get the benefits of the better steering response and not have to worry about the issues coming back if I do further modifications, rather than risk a reman unit having the same problems since the resalers don't distinguish between the 11/12 part vs the supposedly non-afected 13/14 units.

So my only question at this point, the swap seems fairly straightforward, except for the fact that some write-ups I've seen on it mention programming the unit by plugging in FORSCAN and copying the EPAS data and passing it to the new unit. Some write-ups omit this step entirely. I haven't been able to find out if the programming is necessary or not. LMR's product page on the unit states that it comes with a program already but not to use it with street tires? I would think that putting the same program data into it would just bring the problem back since apparently the whole issue is due to bad software in the early units anyway. Also, I don't have a laptop to run FORSCAN on so I'm hoping it's not necessary.

Anybody know for sure if that step can be omitted without issue?

Contact Vorshlag.

would not touch the motorsport programming.

Slack on center cannot possibly be anything with the epas. It's still a rack and pinion. It's metal.

No programming necessary.
Buy either the 2013-14 rack, or the Motorsports rack.
Bolt it in.
Plug it in.
Drive it without steering issues.
WIN!

Sounds like a plan.

Thanks for the help guys. Will update after install.

Well I have had the Ford Racing EPAS installed about a week ago. Now nearly $1200 and ~6 hours of cursing on my back in the driveway later, I can confirm Ford's Famous Fantastic Wheel Wobble has finally been cured.

I'm still getting the "clunk" after crossing center, but I did not get that while the car was in the air and I was testing the rack. I am going to further look into the strut bearings as the cause of issue, may end up upgrading the struts anyway.

The car still tramlines like it's possessed but from what I hear that is to be expected with the 285 tires I'm running. At least the wobble is gone, now onto brakes, tires, and suspension.....

Sway bar endlinks or strut mounts would have been the first things id have checked.

sarjxxx said:

Well I have had the Ford Racing EPAS installed about a week ago. Now nearly $1200 and ~6 hours of cursing on my back in the driveway later, I can confirm Ford's Famous Fantastic Wheel Wobble has finally been cured.

I'm still getting the "clunk" after crossing center, but I did not get that while the car was in the air and I was testing the rack. I am going to further look into the strut bearings as the cause of issue, may end up upgrading the struts anyway.

The car still tramlines like it's possessed but from what I hear that is to be expected with the 285 tires I'm running. At least the wobble is gone, now onto brakes, tires, and suspension.....

Click to expand...

I have Nitto 285-40-18's on the front of 2010 GT auto....and no tramlining. (18x10's with 45mm offset...+ a 3mm hubcentric spacer...and -2 deg camber). 1 x street intersection.... just b4 the intersection, I get tramlining, but also get tramlining with 225mm tires on my Fusion...asphalt has since been repaired.