Anyone here tried the Dorman steel replacement driveshaft?

The procedure for setting the pinion angle would be exactly the same regardless of what type of misalignment coupling you have on each end of the driveshaft: measure, adjust, and repeat as required.

I would suggest, since you are going to be under the car anyway, consider having a driveshaft made by a local shop.

I would steer away from a CV joint, IMHO they are for soccer moms who don't peace and tranquility disturbed while driving to the mall. There are plenty of quick and fast cars turning high RPM running u-joint driveshafts without issues. Look under any high-powered vehicle that employs CV joints and you will see a massive joint, about 5" diameter. Not that dainty little 2-1/2" joint.

I would also not consider a double cardan driveshaft. You will never experience excessive joint angles in a car, like you would in a 4x4, assuming your angles are close.

Regardless what one-piece driveshaft you go with, adjust your angles to 3-degrees down pinion angle and 1-degree down at the transmission. Adjust the transmission u-joint angle by shimming the transmission mount if necessary. I try to average the angles by adjusting with drivers weight and a half tank of fuel.

As stated above, the pinion will climb the ring gear and the pinion angle will straighten out. Meanwhile the transmission joint angle will slightly increase with anti-squat.

To measure for a custom made driveshaft, you will need a transmission slip yoke and a pinion yoke. Insert the transmission slip yoke all the way until it bottoms out, then pull it out 3/4" so that it doesn't bottom out during normal suspension travel. Measure the center-to-center distance of the u-joint caps. I prefer to do this while the yokes are horizontal. You can preset the pinion angle with a string tied between the two yokes.

This site has some great driveshaft tech info http://www.4xshaft.com/techinfo.asp

A good video on u-joint phasing
Cheers,

Well this is a much bigger can of worms than I thought it was.

I just don't understand all this with worrying about pinion angle with a double u-joint driveshaft. I've had other vehicles with regular driveshafts with double u-joints where I changed the ride height and never ran into vibration issues. My Thunderbird was lowered, no issues. My Ranger was lifted, also no issues. So what's the deal? Plus the FRPP driveshaft has a ton of positive reviews on AM.

ghunt81 said:

Well this is a much bigger can of worms than I thought it was.

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It's really not.

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/dome...ce-3-5-aluminum-driveshaft-with-direct-fit-cv

This is the newly updated version of what I have.

I didn't read much of this thread, however, I see mention of the V6 shaft.... don't use them, they are prone to exploding at GT available speeds. This is a anecdotal comment based on 13 years activity on S197 forums.

stkjock said:

I didn't read much of this thread, however, I see mention of the V6 shaft.... don't use them, they are prone to exploding at GT available speeds. This is a anecdotal comment based on 13 years activity on S197 forums.

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Oh yeah, I forgot about that.

stkjock said:

I didn't read much of this thread, however, I see mention of the V6 shaft.... don't use them, they are prone to exploding at GT available speeds. This is a anecdotal comment based on 13 years activity on S197 forums.

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That's why the (V6) oem speed limiter is set to 115 Mph. Some kid on U tube shut the limiter off in software... then winds it up on the hwy. Shaft vibrated.... then exploded. You could hear it vibrate on u-tube... prior to exploding. He was lucky it didn't pole vault..... which is what happened a week later at the strip.... and a young fellow was killed.

Just buy this. You won't have any issues. You're getting a lot of bad advice here. You don't need a watts link. You don't need to shim the transmission at all. Leave it alone. An adjustable top 3rd link is a good idea but usually not necessary. There is nothing wrong with a CV joint but its not necessary either. Don't even think about a v6 driveshaft.

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2005-2010-mustang-gt-driveshaft-shop-driveshaft.136816/

ghunt81 said:

I gotta drop the transmission this winter to replace the clutch (throwout bearing making a bunch of noise). I would love to get an aluminum driveshaft but they are stupid expensive. I see Dorman makes a steel one piece replacement shaft for almost $250 less than the aluminum ones, anyone tried it? There was a guy asking about it on Stangnet earlier this year but he just posted pictures of it in the box, never had anything about the install.

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Check this out.

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2005-2010-mustang-gt-driveshaft-shop-driveshaft.136816/

^^^^ HA, beat you to it by 8 minutes

Racer47 said:

Just buy this. You won't have any issues. You're getting a lot of bad advice here. You don't need a watts link. You don't need to shim the transmission at all. Leave it alone. An adjustable top 3rd link is a good idea but usually not necessary. There is nothing wrong with a CV joint but its not necessary either. Don't even think about a v6 driveshaft.

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2005-2010-mustang-gt-driveshaft-shop-driveshaft.136816/

Click to expand...

Snap it up....it's the real deal. Makes one wonder why he's selling it ??


If you lower the rear by the typ 1.25", an adjustable UCA makes dialing in the pinion angle easier.....esp if the LCA's are fixed in length. The adjustable BMR UCA offerings (+ mating UCA mount) are better built /rugged vs the oem rubber doughnut junk. The 10-12 cars come with wheel hop...right outa the gate...and the oem uca is the culprit.


Yeah, he doesn't require a watts link, but if the car is lowered at the rear, an adjustable PHB will be required. The BMR on car adjustable PHB makes centering real easy... no lift or jackstands required.

Using a V6 DS on a GT is plane foolish.

I have a Dss driveshaft for sale in the sale forum. Switching to a T56 so this will not work. Check it out if your interested.

Nitrobob I posted a reply on your for sale post.