Rear end housing Bushing removal question

GlassTop09

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Got the old BMR UCA differential bushing out & new Ford DR3Z-5A638-A UCA differential bushing installed this afternoon (while under the car I also backed off both FR 8.8" girdle bearing cap preload bolts, cleaned bolt threads then applied some RTV to the threads then ran em back in to draw some RTV into the girdle threads & set the bearing cap preload then set the lock nuts & cleaned the girdle off to see if the slight oil leaks have been fixed then checked the shift linkage nut on the Barton ST shifter--had installed AMP bronze bushings earlier....all good).

The Rotunda tool worked very well. 1st tried to remove old outer shell w\ BMR insert bushing intact w\ tool using my new Craftsman 1\2" dr electric impact but wasn't happening (not strong enough) so I got out my old 1\2" dr torque wrench to use as a long ratchet for leverage (have 2 more spare 1\2" dr torque wrenches)....ended up destroying the little bearing & the washer as they weren't up to the task (bushing shell was in there good) & the outer shell end where I had 204-590(1) removal driver against started flaring out so I had to pull the tool, drive out the BMR inserts, cut a groove in the outer shell to relieve some of the socket tension on it, took a crescent wrench & folded the outer shell end back inward so the 204-590(1) driver would square back up on the end then using the 1\2" long "ratchet" I slowly put tension on the tool & kept an eye on the driver to ensure it was staying square & eased the outer shell out. Cleaned all up, put some KK on the new bushing's outer shell, set it up in the socket in the proper orientation (both flat sides on flange in vertical parallel to sides of rear end socket....places the gaps in rubber at top & bottom of inner core for articulation), put the 204-590(2) installer driver on the flanged end of bushing & the 205-813 installer cup on the other side (notch in cup clears some casting at bottom of socket) then used a reg 1\2" dr ratchet to get all started good then got the long 1\2" "ratchet" & drew the new bushing into place....204-590(2) installer driver cup is offset so when you draw the installer cup in full against the rear end's bushing socket it automatically spaces the bushing in the socket to centerline of the UCA....lowered the UCA back onto the new bushing & it slid onto the bushing w\o having to fiddle w\ the UCA. Lined up the holes using my jack & slid the bolt in & ran it up snug. Jacked the car up to load the rear end, pulled the 2 rear jack stands from the unibody, set my ramps under the rear wheels, set the car down on them, flexed the rear of car a couple of times to settle it then torqued the rear UCA diff bushing up to the required 129 ft\lbs then reinstalled my rear sway bar & PHB after fixing the leaks on the girdle then put her on the ground & test drove her after picking up\putting away all tools & cleaning up.

Drove around town for about 1 hr.....rear end felt no different now w\ new Ford DR3Z-5A638-A bushing than it did w\ the BMR insert, could not detect any pinion rise from rear end upon a hard clutch dump & had no wheel hop occur when tires broke loose. Rear end was quiet when axle was moving around on bumpy roads & felt very solid w\ no creaks\squeaks. Made a couple of spirited turns to see how the rear end would act....felt good & smooth & was also very quiet during articulation off body roll so all in all I'm a happy camper now that I got this bushing installed. I had checked the BMR adj UCA's front bushing & found it still in good order (held the UCA up & out of the way the whole time during the job w\o drooping) so all is good now....rear end feels very planted. The BMR diff insert bushing was starting to get a little loose (pushed the BMR's metal inner sleeve out w\ my hand while the insert was still installed in the shell but had to drive the rest out...had to drive it all in when I initially installed it) so it had loosened up enough from rear end articulation to offload the UCA of some excessive torsional force anyway but I feel better now knowing that there is an OEM designed diff axle bushing designed to articulate installed but is a much, much better 1 than the 05-09 OEM 5R3Z-5A638-DA bushing that came originally on the rear axle.

Gonna pick up a couple of Grd 8 flat washers to use under the Rotunda tool's nuts going forward as these should be able to handle the high tensile load between the nut & driver\cup w\o dishing out & breaking (this happened even when coated w\ some KK to reduce friction), the thicker the better.

Rear end is now checked off my list....all handled for now.
 

1950StangJump$

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Glass, since you took such detailed measurements, what is the bushing shell's interior diameter? I assume the shells are the same size, whether a GT or GT500?

I will be drilling out the rubber (2008 GT) to install the BMR poly per the instructions, and I want to buy a sanding flap wheel to clean the shell up well after drilling out the bulk of the old rubber. Just need to know what size flap wheel to buy . . .

Yes, I could measure the new bushing, but I'm away on business without the parts handy :)
 
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RocketcarX

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Glass, since you took such detailed measurements, what is the bushing shell's interior diameter? I assume the shells are the same size, whether a GT or GT500?

I will be drilling out the rubber (2008 GT) to install the BMR poly per the instructions, and I want to buy a sanding flap wheel to clean the shell up well after drilling out the bulk of the old rubber. Just need to know what size flap wheel to buy . . .

Yes, I could measure the new bushing, but I'm away on business without the parts handy :)
A 1.5" hole saw to remove the rubber and a dremel with a cylinder head porting bit would make short work of the bushing
 

GlassTop09

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Glass, since you took such detailed measurements, what is the bushing shell's interior diameter? I assume the shells are the same size, whether a GT or GT500?

I will be drilling out the rubber (2008 GT) to install the BMR poly per the instructions, and I want to buy a sanding flap wheel to clean the shell up well after drilling out the bulk of the old rubber. Just need to know what size flap wheel to buy . . .

Yes, I could measure the new bushing, but I'm away on business without the parts handy :)

The OD of the outer shell is 1.8" uncompressed which is the same OD as the rest before installed as the Ford 7.5" & 8.8" 3-link rear ends use the same size socket ID diameter for the UCA diff bushing. The ID of the outer shell I didn't actually measure (wasn't on my mind at the time) but from looking at the shell's metal thickness (around .0625" or 1/16") I'd say the ID of the outer shell is close to 1.675" (compressed ID).

Hope this helps.
 

1950StangJump$

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I know this thread is about removing the housing, but thought I'd relay my experience installing the BMR poly bushing in the stock shell.

What a PITA!

I used a 1.5" hole saw as instructed to remove the OEM rubber, and I even ended up making a trip to Lowe's and getting a second, sharper one. That rubber fought me like crazy.

Then, the leftover rubber crap after drilling out the core was the real chore; it hung on for life. After trying a metal file, sandpaper, and a sanding flap wheel, I ended up settling on buffing attachments for the dremel... but they ate away so fast, I had to make a second Lowe's trip and get 6 more.

Then, after it was cleaned out and the BMR poly installed, getting the metal sleeve to insert became the next challenge - it didn't want to cooperate either.

After all that, I had a heck of a time getting the rear end lined back up to bolt up the UCA; the rear end had shifted slightly when lowered after disconnecting the sway bar and shocks. Took an hour of jacking the rear end up and down while shifting it using the adjustable panhard to get it to line up.

I had access to a lift, which would have been soooooo much better, but chose to do this in my garage and regretted it. Anyway, the 1-2 hour job took 6.5 hours, but it's done :)
 

GlassTop09

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Yeah, & the older we get the more jack stands suck!
I hurt just reading about your experiences...…………...

:Big Laugh:

Glad it all ended up fine though.

:beer:

PS--Just now realized that I could've used my Lisle 22800 wheel stud installer tool instead of the cheap bearing that Rotunda sent as this Lisle tool is essentially a large stout bearing to remove the friction of washers or the lug nut against the axle flange when installing new studs so I'll remember this for the next time this Rotunda tool is used.
 
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GlassTop09

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Update:

After some driving time on this new FoMoCo DR3Z-5A638-A UCA diff bushing installed all is fine....rear end feel is very smooth & tight. Can't detect any pinion rise thus wheel hop still when pushing the car & rear end is very quiet (no squeaks, creaks, rattles or clunks) during operation. I'm very happy w\ the results. Only wish I had found this part earlier...……….

In closing I believe this FoMoCo part# bushing is an excellent UCA diff bushing upgrade part to use in any lower mark S197, especially if OEM-like rear axle articulation is desired in addition to the improved pinion rise control to eliminate wheel hop.
 

GlassTop09

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Look at this picture of the BMR 05-10 UCA & mount vs the BMR 11-14 UCA & mount.....focus on the UCA poly bushing design differences.
This picture validates my concerns\decision to remove the BMR UCA diff poly bushing & install the Ford part# DR3Z-5A638-A UCA diff bushing to reduce UCA bind\twist on axle articulation as I have the 05-10 setup installed which, as you can see, has little to no room to flex in the poly bushing of it's UCA as opposed to the poly bushing design of the 11-14 UCA so the majority of axle articulation flex\twist is thrust onto the UCA's adjuster & UCA diff bushing w\ the 05-10 BMR setup as opposed to the 11-14 BMR setup which explains why my BMR poly diff bushing did loosen up over it's time under operation (as noted in post #41).
The 11-14 setup is on the left, 05-10 setup is on the right:
Mz8ynik.jpg

FYI...…………………...
 

juanlien

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Following!this seems like a very interesting thread
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Juice

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Look at this picture of the BMR 05-10 UCA & mount vs the BMR 11-14 UCA & mount.....focus on the UCA poly bushing design differences.
This picture validates my concerns\decision to remove the BMR UCA diff poly bushing & install the Ford part# DR3Z-5A638-A UCA diff bushing to reduce UCA bind\twist on axle articulation as I have the 05-10 setup installed which, as you can see, has little to no room to flex in the poly bushing of it's UCA as opposed to the poly bushing design of the 11-14 UCA so the majority of axle articulation flex\twist is thrust onto the UCA's adjuster & UCA diff bushing w\ the 05-10 BMR setup as opposed to the 11-14 BMR setup which explains why my BMR poly diff bushing did loosen up over it's time under operation (as noted in post #41).
The 11-14 setup is on the left, 05-10 setup is on the right:
View attachment 72542

FYI...…………………...
Spot on. 11up less bind.
I put the QA1 upper on mine. Spherical bearing on tbe chassis side. Left the stock bushing in the rear. I like it and didnt really increase cabin noise. Which I was expecting.
 

WNYGT5-0

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I just recently pulled my Upper rear housing bushing using instructions from Steeda. Figured this would be a good place to post it up for others. Works great... 3B716D0E-D683-4AD1-B084-7A8656560FFC.png
 

SVT Rider

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I just recently pulled my Upper rear housing bushing using instructions from Steeda. Figured this would be a good place to post it up for others. Works great... View attachment 72665
I went down this route rigging up my own version of the OEM tool as this diagram describes. Finding an all-thread that is hardened enough is difficult.

Any idea where to find something like this?
 

WNYGT5-0

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I went down this route rigging up my own version of the OEM tool as this diagram describes. Finding an all-thread that is hardened enough is difficult.

Any idea where to find something like this?
I used stainless all thread. Standard should work as long as it’s well greased. Whatever you use grease the threads well. I got everything from the machine shop that does my powder for less than a 20. You can also use a grade 8 bolt and nut but go in from the opposite side. Cheers
 

Juice

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If you put some silver antisieze on the threads, it helps a bunch. But allthread makes a one time use bushing tool.
 

Juice

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Luckily it’s an s197 and not a fox or two lengths would be needed. Lol
Absolutely. lol, Yes, I had to "replace" the allthread to do the second bushing on my 91.
You can assist the allthread tool with a hammer. Tighten, tap, repeat.
 

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