Clutch line heat soak???

Anyone ever experience this? I have read it can cause clutch chatter as well like what I was experiencing. I bought an sve as clutch line and I'm thinking about heat wrapping it. Anyone ever done this before?

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If you have long tube headers, clutch line heat soak can be an issue. Heat wrapping it might help some.

No long tube headers here. I would imagine it being close to the cats that heat soak can still be an issue

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FYI,

That is why I went w\ the FR SS Clutch Line for my 09 GT as the front part is made of solid SS tubing that is pre-formed by Ford to clear the exhaust by 10"-12" (comes 90* out of the MC & hugs the underside of the BB along the firewall, goes straight across the back of the engine then turns down towards the trans w\ the last 1' section made using braided SS hose for flexing). I have no issues w\ my clutch line getting overly hot w\ no clutch chattering & I have a set of Kooks 1 5\8" LT headers installed & outside of the 2" of rubber sleeve to protect the AC line from potentially rubbing on this solid SS clutch line it has no heat sleeving applied on it.

The only other thing is that this FR SS Clutch Line is high dollar for this purpose (lists for well over $350.00+ if bought off FR site but can be got off CJ Pony Parts or AM for much less....around $240.00 but is still higher than the others but for form & fit it can't be beat as this is the exact same clutch line part Ford designed & used on their period specific FR500C race cars.

But applying some heat sleeve on this line (or any other brand line) is a good idea regardless for extra insurance against line overheat (as well as using some DOT 4 or higher brake fluid for extra heat tolerance).

Hope this helps.

You can also do the clutch reservoir mod and use a good fluid.

https://lmr.com/products/how-to-install-mustang-sve-remote-clutch-fluid-reservoir-kit-10-14

^^^what he said. Clutch reservoir are cheap and easy enough to do. Cap the barb coming out of the brake fluid reservoir and plug the line into the new reservoir. I'll be doing this when I replace the clutch.

here's a decent write-up as well.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/f821/write-up-installing-separate-clutch-fluid-reservoir-540631/

Im running the factory original clutch line. I run 40 minute sessions at HPDE events. (4 per day). Ran 25 minute sessions on the hottest day of last year. Never ever had any clutch issues in 20000+ miles driven. On track or street.
Just sayin'. Have the stock headers and aftermarket cats.

I don't race, but even in stop and go traffic, I can feel the clutch pedal getting harder to push. Not the best design to share with the brake system.

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LDC2335 said:

I don't race, but even in stop and go traffic, I can feel the clutch pedal getting harder to push. Not the best design to share with the brake system.

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Wouldnt heatsoak make the clutch feel soft and mushy and make it hard to shift?

I agree with Juice - I think the OP may have a different problem than heat soak.

OP likely has a clutch wear issue, clutch nearing end-of-life.

As these belville spring style clutches wear, the pedal dets harder and harder to push. It is the design characteristic of this style clutch. In the cable operated clutch days, you would snap the clutch cable or the plastic "auto adj" mechanism.

When I installed the new clutch line I also wrapped it with DEI heat tubing. I also have ARHs but are ceramic coated. No problems, Oh yea I also relocated a new res.

Juice said:

Wouldnt heatsoak make the clutch feel soft and mushy and make it hard to shift?

Click to expand...

It makes the brake pedal mushy when the fluid heats up/boils, but I've read a decent amount of threads that talk about the clutch being harder to push when the fluid expands/heats up.

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LDC2335 said:

It makes the brake pedal mushy when the fluid heats up/boils, but s that talk about the clutch being harder to push when the fluid expands/heats up.

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I believe those threads are mistaken. I had (Traded 1) two brand new 2014 GT's that both exhibited the hard pedal when hot. This is not unique to the mustang at all. It is generally caused by the pressure plate assembly. I replaced both of mine at less than 20K mi. and problem solved. Nothing to do with hot hydraulics.

After some time, the pedal will gradually get harder to actuate again, but it's normal. Hopefully it's so gradual that you won't notice a profound contrast that troubles you. If you do, the solution is to replace it.