Kenne bell stage 1 SC

06 T-RED S/C GT · Apr 9, 2020

teeje said:
Yeah I take my plugs out about every 10 k anyhow and clean them and re apply anti seize. I recently took them about because I learned the new “revised ones” I had were not fords latest revision so I put brand new ones in that were fords latest revision and they only have about an hour of run time on them.

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As previously mentioned, both Ford/Motorcraft and Autolite plugs are one in the same, therefore both have the latest revised version. Anyhow, knowing that you take your plugs out every 10k miles along with cleaning them and reapplying nickel anti-seize, you'll avoid the potential risk of the plugs separating due from carbon build up around the electrode shields regardless of whether you have the latest revised version or not. Needless to say, it really wasn't necessary to replace your plugs with brand new ones just because they didn't include the latest revision. At any rate, you would've been just fine by keeping your previous plugs installed.

teeje · Apr 9, 2020

Nemisus said:
The dash gauge pod is secured with heavy duty velcro. No movement while driving and easy to get under should you find the need. Hardest part of the install was running the wires behind it.

Pretty expensive if you buy the version from Shelby that has their signature gauges. But it does arrive pre-wired and all you have to so is connect the other ends. Mounting the oil block for the Oil Pressure took some thinking but this only because they no longer provide a mount for it. Instead they have you zip tie the block to one of the power steering lines. I didn't like this so fabricated my own mount so it's firmly mounted to the side of the block and tucked away.

Hope this helps and best of luck.

As far as forged internals go I am not quite there yet. Will most likely go that route when mileage is high and a rebuild is due. I'll then consider stage 2.

Cheers

Nemi

Where did you get your feed for your oil pressure at? Or did they supply a t fitting to go into the existing oil pressure sensor? If you get a chance I’d like to see what you did..

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teeje · Apr 12, 2020

Nemisus said:
As far as "screw whine" these kits are very quiet out of the box. Even KB states this if you ask them. You could do a sound tube mod but know you'll get additional induction hiss through this tub. So if you're not constantly in boost and above 3k rpms mashing on the throttle the pay off may not be worth it. I did this and immediately bought another intake tube from KB as I couldn't stand the Induction noises during normal driving. Granted hearing the Whine did provide some satisfaction.

Hope this info helps.

Cheers,

If you still have that sound tube mod I’ll buy it off you if you give me a good deal

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BadPiggy · Apr 12, 2020

OP, interested in selling that FRPP Intake?

Email me:
[email protected]

teeje · Apr 12, 2020

BadPiggy said:
OP, interested in selling that FRPP Intake?

Email me:
[email protected]

Yes I will be selling that along with a jlt series 3 CAI. I will email you as soon as I am ready to sell it.

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Anti · Apr 12, 2020

Hopefully we will get some info on the forged internals bit soon. I am interested in building a short block on the side, too. The search feature is letting me down. Possibly due to me being on my phone. I'll search more later on my PC.

Midlife Crises · Apr 12, 2020

There are several companies offering forged, balanced rotating assembly kits. If you can do most or all of the install yourself they are not brutally expensive. I purchased a kit through Modular Head Shop that included crank, rods with bolts, pistons with rings and pins and rod and main bearings. Several options are available when selecting a kit so it is easy to get what you want. The kit I used went together without issue and I am glad I went this rout.

teeje · Apr 12, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
There are several companies offering forged, balanced rotating assembly kits. If you can do most or all of the install yourself they are not brutally expensive. I purchased a kit through Modular Head Shop that included crank, rods with bolts, pistons with rings and pins and rod and main bearings. Several options are available when selecting a kit so it is easy to get what you want. The kit I used went together without issue and I am glad I went this rout.

Did you have to go to a machine shop ? I’m very confident I can do this but I hear from others to take it to one. I’ll just be using a standard block, and putting in what you did.

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Midlife Crises · Apr 12, 2020

My engine only had 18,000 miles on it when I tore it down. The cylinders were round and had no taper I could measure so I bar honed them 0.002” to fit forged, stock bore pistons. If I would have found any taper or oval or scuff mark I would have had the block bored at least 0.020” over. I checked my block before I ordered the kit!

teeje · Apr 12, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
My engine only had 18,000 miles on it when I tore it down. The cylinders were round and had no taper I could measure so I bar honed them 0.002” to fit forged, stock bore pistons. If I would have found any taper or oval or scuff mark I would have had the block bored at least 0.020” over. I checked my block before I ordered the kit!

I’m going to get a second block and build it while I have fun with it at a couple psi. But since you did the entire rotating assembly, did you have to do anything special with the bearings like measure using plastigauge or did you just put them in? I know the rings that come are file fit so that’s not an issue I can manage that but I just want to know if I have to do anything special when it comes to putting the crank and bearings in.

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Midlife Crises · Apr 12, 2020

I like your plan of having a second block. If it’s used, check the bores for roundness and taper. Having the block bored to straighten it out is no big deal. Just check it before ordering pistons! Plastigauge is usable but I have a very nice set of inside and outside micrometers so I measured the crank and the rod and main bearings before assembly. The bearings were already narrowed for the radiused crank and in spec. Like I said, nice kit.

teeje · Apr 13, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
I like your plan of having a second block. If it’s used, check the bores for roundness and taper. Having the block bored to straighten it out is no big deal. Just check it before ordering pistons! Plastigauge is usable but I have a very nice set of inside and outside micrometers so I measured the crank and the rod and main bearings before assembly. The bearings were already narrowed for the radiused crank and in spec. Like I said, nice kit.

Okay cool. So your kit you were just able to assemble because your block was good. That makes sense. I’ve seen all these people building engines and having to get certain size bearings and all that and it had me confused.

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Midlife Crises · Apr 13, 2020

Yes, the kit I used could have been thrown in the block. DO NOT DO THAT. At least do a dry fit with plastigauge to be sure. Also, order your rods with ARP bolts and order ARP studs for the main caps. ARP fasteners have their own torque spec. and they are reusable.

teeje · Apr 13, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
Yes, the kit I used could have been thrown in the block. DO NOT DO THAT. At least do a dry fit with plastigauge to be sure. Also, order your rods with ARP bolts and order ARP studs for the main caps. ARP fasteners have their own torque spec. and they are reusable.

Do you have a part of the acceptable tolerances? I’d definitely benefit from having that for sure

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Anti · Apr 13, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
Yes, the kit I used could have been thrown in the block. DO NOT DO THAT. At least do a dry fit with plastigauge to be sure. Also, order your rods with ARP bolts and order ARP studs for the main caps. ARP fasteners have their own torque spec. and they are reusable.

How did you find out about a place like modular head shop?

Midlife Crises · Apr 13, 2020

teeje.
The best thing you can get your hands on is a Ford service manual. An on line manual you can download works great. You will need one for tolerances, torque specs and patterns.
Anti.
I just used a wed search engine when I was shopping for parts and looking for kits. They listed one that was exactly what I was looking for. Ended up purchasing several parts from them.

Anti · Apr 14, 2020

Midlife Crises said:
teeje.
The best thing you can get your hands on is a Ford service manual. An on line manual you can download works great. You will need one for tolerances, torque specs and patterns.
Anti.
I just used a wed search engine when I was shopping for parts and looking for kits. They listed one that was exactly what I was looking for. Ended up purchasing several parts from them.

They have pretty good customer support?

Midlife Crises · Apr 14, 2020

I made two or three orders with them. One showed up with the wrong valve cover gaskets. I called them and they sent the correct gaskets right away. On their dime. Everything else came as requester in good time.

teeje · Jul 26, 2020

Man talk about a crazy install. I started Friday night after I got off work. Got to the assembly portion already. All wiring done, intercooler done, all that’s left is the BAP, manifold, and blower and my boost gauge (wideband already installed). My question is... kenne bell now sends a jumper harness so you no longer have to splice into the MAF , but I have the MAF plugged in and it has an extra plug on it for the IAT. If I’m not mistaken this is built in to our MAFs? No where in the directions does it state what to do with that connector. Also, I have an 08, but maybe I’m crazy but I have absolute no coolant bleeder on this car. I have the updated hoses where the Tstat is in the crossover. You’d think it’d be on the tstat housing..NOPE. So, again, WHAT DO I DO WITH THIS IAT CONNECTOR?

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Mustang Mark · Jul 26, 2020

teeje said:
Man talk about a crazy install. I started Friday night after I got off work. Got to the assembly portion already. All wiring done, intercooler done, all that’s left is the BAP, manifold, and blower and my boost gauge (wideband already installed). My question is... kenne bell now sends a jumper harness so you no longer have to splice into the MAF , but I have the MAF plugged in and it has an extra plug on it for the IAT. If I’m not mistaken this is built in to our MAFs? No where in the directions does it state what to do with that connector. Also, I have an 08, but maybe I’m crazy but I have absolute no coolant bleeder on this car. I have the updated hoses where the Tstat is in the crossover. You’d think it’d be on the tstat housing..NOPE. So, again, WHAT DO I DO WITH THIS IAT CONNECTOR?

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You should have a bulb style iat sensor in the manifold, that’s where the 2 extra wires will go. The car needs to read iats post intercooler so it knows to pull timing if things get too hot.

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