GlassTop09
Senior Member
Hi OP,
When you said you checked all fuses under the hood, gotta ask did you actually check every 1 of them & how did you perform the checks....visual, w\ a test light connected to ground or w\ a DVOM set in continuity?
I read that you noted that some of them didn't have power to them....which is correct as some of these fuses are in post-ignition circuits meaning that they are powered up after the ignition switch is in either the run position or accessory position.
Fuse #68 in the BEC is a yellow 20A mini fuse which is the fuse for the ignition circuit which should be hot at all times (power from battery + going to the ignition switch in steering column) so before going under the dash make sure that this fuse is good.
If you do have to check any wiring under the dash using a test light checking for continuity then before doing any of this go into the SJB (the fuse box behind the inside passenger side kick panel) & pull out fuse #17 red 10A mini fuse (this powers the RCM, PODS & PADI systems....or in layman's terms this kills power to the airbag system) & wait for at least 2-5 mins for the capacitors to drain down in the RCM before proceeding & then ONLY use your test light connected to GROUND so that you don't get a face full of airbag if you should accidently probe into a +wire to any of the airbags as to use a test light for this work the system will need to be powered up (battery connected) to check for continuity.
Hope this helps.
PS--Almost forgot, as to the issue of the horn beeping twice fast this is an audible that says that either the doors, trunk or hood isn't closed fully.....most times it's due to the switch under the hood (mounted on passenger side fender by the BEC) or due to low battery power to the PATS...…..
Another PS--Just remembered to cover this, this is why you didn't hear your fuel pump spin up as fuse #41 is the fuse to the fuel pump\injectors but the #21 relay beside it is what the ignition switch has to power up to complete the circuit.
When you said you checked all fuses under the hood, gotta ask did you actually check every 1 of them & how did you perform the checks....visual, w\ a test light connected to ground or w\ a DVOM set in continuity?
I read that you noted that some of them didn't have power to them....which is correct as some of these fuses are in post-ignition circuits meaning that they are powered up after the ignition switch is in either the run position or accessory position.
Fuse #68 in the BEC is a yellow 20A mini fuse which is the fuse for the ignition circuit which should be hot at all times (power from battery + going to the ignition switch in steering column) so before going under the dash make sure that this fuse is good.
If you do have to check any wiring under the dash using a test light checking for continuity then before doing any of this go into the SJB (the fuse box behind the inside passenger side kick panel) & pull out fuse #17 red 10A mini fuse (this powers the RCM, PODS & PADI systems....or in layman's terms this kills power to the airbag system) & wait for at least 2-5 mins for the capacitors to drain down in the RCM before proceeding & then ONLY use your test light connected to GROUND so that you don't get a face full of airbag if you should accidently probe into a +wire to any of the airbags as to use a test light for this work the system will need to be powered up (battery connected) to check for continuity.
Hope this helps.
PS--Almost forgot, as to the issue of the horn beeping twice fast this is an audible that says that either the doors, trunk or hood isn't closed fully.....most times it's due to the switch under the hood (mounted on passenger side fender by the BEC) or due to low battery power to the PATS...…..
Another PS--Just remembered to cover this, this is why you didn't hear your fuel pump spin up as fuse #41 is the fuse to the fuel pump\injectors but the #21 relay beside it is what the ignition switch has to power up to complete the circuit.
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