What have you done to your mustang today?

Jgt58 said:

I was just pulling ya chain man.

Good job bro [emoji106]

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Happy now?

Very minor but put a new background on my nav unit

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Took the Mustang out for a stretch today. I did not hammer on it but the fresh transmission feels good. No funny noises or smells and it shifts smooth with positive feel. Not a hint of gear nibble up or down in a short 40 mile drive. The clutch begins to drag a few inches off the floor. Seems a little higher than before so I think the spacer is a good idea.
If you are familiar with the options available inside the T56 Mag./6060, this XL ended up with 1st, 2nd and 3rd being advanced tooth design and 4th, 5th and 6th conventional. I installed carbon fiber synchros in 1st and 2nd. 3rd and 4th got hybrid synchro sets and the rest are carbon paper, sintered brass and steel. Also exchanged the plastic shift fork pads with brass. Come on warmer weather.

Laga said:

View attachment 72511 View attachment 72512 View attachment 72513 Happy now?

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are those the Steeda adjustable front end links? Looks sharp

Macman45 said:

are those the Steeda adjustable front end links? Looks sharp

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Yes, I had to replace front end links because the boot of existing passenger side was damaged. I went with adjustable to hopefully deal with understeer I experienced at track day. Thanks.

Threw a set of Whiteline lca relocation brackets on today. Damn, what a difference. No more axle slap and I have to pop the clutch to spin the back wheels now, otherwise it just takes off, no wheel spin. Wish I had done this years ago...

Added oe Cali special side scoops

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bujeezus said:

Threw a set of Whiteline lca relocation brackets on today. Damn, what a difference. No more axle slap and I have to pop the clutch to spin the back wheels now, otherwise it just takes off, no wheel spin. Wish I had done this years ago...

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Nice!!!
That is my next mod this year. I'm going with the BMR stuff but the non adjustable LCA's with relocation brackets and the non adjustable UCA. Mine spins like it's on glass and I have read the UCA relocation brackets will make it bite with a lot less spinning. Dang it, I'll probably need a clutch after a week or two.

06JET said:

Nice!!!
That is my next mod this year. I'm going with the BMR stuff but the non adjustable LCA's with relocation brackets and the non adjustable UCA. Mine spins like it's on glass and I have read the UCA relocation brackets will make it bite with a lot less spinning. Dang it, I'll probably need a clutch after a week or two.

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Out of curiosity, why would you go with all non adjustable components?

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bujeezus said:

Threw a set of Whiteline lca relocation brackets on today. Damn, what a difference. No more axle slap and I have to pop the clutch to spin the back wheels now, otherwise it just takes off, no wheel spin. Wish I had done this years ago...

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Heck yeah I need to do this. This is after you lowered the 2" right? And your existing poly LCA's were standard length / non adjustable right?

06JET said:

Nice!!!
Mine spins like it's on glass and I have read the UCA relocation brackets will make it bite with a lot less spinning.

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That must be true because I've had my relocation brackets on the car for years and I have to work to actually spin the tires.

Macman45 said:

Heck yeah I need to do this. This is after you lowered the 2" right? And your existing poly LCA's were standard length / non adjustable right?

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Yep, 2". I'm actually still running the stock lcas. Thinking about getting the non-adjustable Whiteline lcas. The stockers are so damn ugly. It wound up moving the axle back about 1/8".

EBABlacknChrome said:

Out of curiosity, why would you go with all non adjustable components?

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Why spend the extra $$$ if it's not necessary. Only hardcore racers or maybe those with an aluminum driveshaft need the adjustability.

bujeezus said:

Yep, 2". I'm actually still running the stock lcas. Thinking about getting the non-adjustable Whiteline lcas. The stockers are so damn ugly. It wound up moving the axle back about 1/8".

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sweet. I’m gonna order up. I’m gonna go BMR since all my stuff under there is BMR, including the LCA’s but they have 3 locations. What holes did everyone use for lowered 2”? I’m thinking as low as it goes.

Going with non adjustable poly bushed lower control arms and relocation brackets like BMRs is common as hell because they work. The adjustable upper control arm is needed to correct the pinion angle if you change the ride height. It’s not really a pain in the ass to adjust and once it’s set your done.
Macman45. Start with the top or middle hole. When I used the bottom hole I discovered brake hop! Weird.

Today I installed a set of UPR hood pins.

EBABlacknChrome said:

Out of curiosity, why would you go with all non adjustable components?

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Cost savings and I do not track my car so I really don't think that I need any adjustability. Except for the adjustable panhard bar I will install. I just want to stiffen it up so when I am on it pretty hard the rearend feels stable. Right now it feels like I'm on jello when it's pulling hard in third gear up to redline.

06JET said:

Cost savings and I do not track my car so I really don't think that I need any adjustability. Except for the adjustable panhard bar I will install. I just want to stiffen it up so when I am on it pretty hard the rearend feels stable. Right now it feels like I'm on jello when it's pulling hard in third gear up to redline.

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Totally understand what you mean. I have all adjustable stuff in the garage ready to install along with lower springs, shocks and struts, was just curious. One piece drive shaft coming soon.

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Don't think I ever posted this. You all running a trans scoop?

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OK, last new goody for a while. This is a UPR oil separator for the PCV system. It is more than an empty can and appears to be well made.