Smoke on start up

My new engine 326 Boss 50 block. 2.3 Roush supercharger. When it sets overnight first start up no smoke. Start up let run for 15 seconds shut off let set for 1 hr blue smoke on start up. Have ran compression check all cylinders are 205 psi. Every thing is brand new . Foxlake did my heads .They where also brand new in box

Sounds like oil is getting past the valve stem oil seals from the crankcase to the combustion chambers. The question is why. It could be because:

1. The valve stem oil seals are bad.
2. There's too much clearance between the valve guides and stems.
3. The crankcase is being overpressurized.

Its the tune. It is too rich on startup, causing fuel washdown of oil. The blue smoke is oil burning.
Mine was doing that til i fixed the tune.
Ford claims that this is "normal", and you should never start the car and not "let it fully warm up". I call BS on this. My car does not smoke at all with a bone stock tume or since I got SCT PRP and fixed my tune.

Juice said:

Ford claims that this is "normal", and you should never start the car and not "let it fully warm up".

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There is some truth to this. When my 2018 got delivered to me the guy unloaded it off the truck and pulled it in my driveway, I could hear it missing. Transporter said it was not doing it when he picked it up. I called the dealer I bought it from in Illinois and asked then if it did it there and they claimed no, so I was curious if the Transporter drove it or something. Next day took it to my local dealer to have it checked out and they found 4 misfires, had 4 bad spark plugs. I called Ford and registered a complaint and was told this can be a common thing if the car is started and only run for a short time, as the situation with the dealer moving it around and the car transporter loading/unloading it. Dealer replaced the plugs and it was fine.

Similar to your blue smoke my 2010 Roush since new gives an occasional puff of blue smoke on startup, but not every time, and then disappears as soon as the car is running. I have been told this is because I don't have an Oil Separator Can on it. Guys claim without the separator you'll foul plugs and have other problems, I've never had it happen. I have 60,000 miles at this point and it has not caused me any problems so I live with it.

I have a oil seperater

Startup smoke has nothing to do with an oil separator.
I researched this and.just about accepted Ford's explanation.
Then my drivability issues made me take a closer look at my tune. My Short term fuel trims were at -17% at idle/startup. That means the pcm is pulling 17% to get air-fuel ratio correct.
The JLT 2 cold air intake transfer function is actually about 10% richer than it needs to be. I got the mvf file from JLT directly.
This smoke on startup also seemed to get worse over time as the pcm "learned" and adjusted.

After I purchased the SCT software, I also discovered that my fuel pump function was setup for a return style fuel system. Fuel pressure was 3 psi higher at idle and low fuel flow conditions, contributing to the rich condition. I am running stock returnless.

Since adjusting my tune, my fuel trims are +/- 3% and have not seen any more blue smoke on startup.

If you want to check your car's tune, get Torque with Bluetooth elm 327 adapter. Set up live data to show you STFT and LTFT
Short term and long term fuel trims.
I bet you will find them at negative 10% or more.

And you can read & clear codes and check emission rediness.with Torque

Just to add, a rich tune is a safe tune. So it makes logical sense for JLT to provide a safe maf transfer. And tumers tuning on the safe/rich side. It is not a bad thing, rich mixtures make good torque and less prone to detonation. At the cost of high rpm HP.

Well, 1st off what Juice posted is right....the issue is coming from the tune. BUT.....in this instance I have to also agree w\ Ford.....this is why (some PCM geek is incoming.....):
The PCM uses the OL base fuel mapping settings then uses a fuel enrichment adjustment that is based off the inferred AAT & the current inferred ECT that is measured when the key is cycled thru the run position & into the start position....meaning that based on the inferred AAT\ECT at initial startup (engine has been shut off & idle for a min of 8 hrs...this is what the PCM uses to then determine\initiate a cold start sequence) the PCM will calculate an EXTRA amount of fuel to inject over what the OL base fuel map settings call for at low load% (torque) to reach a proper AFR for engine to start up (colder air using the set OL base fuel map will lean out the AFR as it is more dense). This is to "simulate" the old carb choke (same fueling principle to start carb engines when cold). Once engine has started the PCM now will increase RPM's based on the same AAT\ECT to increase exhaust temps to help the O2 sensor heaters to reach the 600*F temp to get into CL ASAP & to get the cat substrate operating temps above the flashoff temp of 450*F to start them working ASAP to reduce the amount of emissions & will decay (decrease) the fuel enrichment amount proportionally as the engine's ECT rises. If this process isn't interrupted in the time it takes for the PCM to get into CL to then use the O2 sensor output to readjust what is left of the overly rich fuel mix back to stoich (or 14.64 AFR as set in tune for CL...OEM setting) then you generally won't see any blue smoke as the fueling is properly matched.
But if you do what the OP did....which is shut the engine off only 15 secs into the initial cold start startup process then restart the same process again (the amount of time waited at this point before restart is mostly irrelevant), you have just caused the PCM to reassess the fuel enrichment again on top of what it has already done (it's still in cold start mode) increasing the total cold start fuel enrichment almost double due to the PCM not reaching CL yet (simulating the double accel pump you do when your carb choked engine didn't start the 1st crank). So in essence by doing this you're causing the PCM to inject more fuel than is really needed to start the engine the 2nd time causing the cylinder washout thus the blue smoke......

So in essence Ford is also correct...………. If the engine is allowed to run longer in the cold start process before shut off, the effect will be less due to the PCM decaying the fuel enrichment amount based on the amount of ECT rise, but you'll still be causing the PCM to dump additional fuel than what is really needed due to the PCM still being in cold start mode.

This is a habit w\ any computer controlled engine I would strongly suggest to stop doing if you want your engine to stay healthy over the long haul...……….

Once you initially start the engine, you really NEED to let it go thru uninterrupted until it reaches CL (or full warm idle speed as shown on the engine tachometer) before you shut it off so the PCM can properly complete the cold start cycle & get into normal engine operations as this will start the shut down clock properly so based on the amount of time the PCM sees it was shut down from normal operations (along w\ the AAT\ECT at the time of restart) it will make the proper fuel enrichment settings adjustments to start up clean.

Now I will defer to Juice for the rest as this can get aggravated when using a non-OEM tune in the PCM (highly dependent on the tuner's knowledge\ability of understanding when writing it) from non-OEM parts installs that require a retune or from other mechanical issues that are not tune related. I've been there, done that myself but not due to what was posted by the OP, but for other valid reasons just as Juice has posted about his experience.

In the end it's your car, your engine & your money...………………………..

I am using all oem parts. I am using the ford control pack strategy and also have a tune from a bone stock 2013 mustang gt. All in the quest for emissions legality, pass pa smog.
So, I have observed Both pcm steategies behave identically.
The only non oem parts on my car are the ac condenser and jlt intake.

JJ427R said:

There is some truth to this. When my 2018 got delivered to me the guy unloaded it off the truck and pulled it in my driveway, I could hear it missing. Transporter said it was not doing it when he picked it up. I called the dealer I bought it from in Illinois and asked then if it did it there and they claimed no, so I was curious if the Transporter drove it or something. Next day took it to my local dealer to have it checked out and they found 4 misfires, had 4 bad spark plugs. I called Ford and registered a complaint and was told this can be a common thing if the car is started and only run for a short time, as the situation with the dealer moving it around and the car transporter loading/unloading it. Dealer replaced the plugs and it was fine.

Similar to your blue smoke my 2010 Roush since new gives an occasional puff of blue smoke on startup, but not every time, and then disappears as soon as the car is running. I have been told this is because I don't have an Oil Separator Can on it. Guys claim without the separator you'll foul plugs and have other problems, I've never had it happen. I have 60,000 miles at this point and it has not caused me any problems so I live with it.

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If you're pulling in enough oil to foul the plugs without using an oil separator, you've got a big oil control problem.

Rick Simons said:

If you're pulling in enough oil to foul the plugs without using an oil separator, you've got a big oil control problem.

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The plugs were fouled on my brand new 2018 with only a few miles on it, not my Roush which is a 2010 and now has 60,000 miles on it. Neither car has an oil separator.

You guys wouldnt believe just how easy it is to flood even a new fuel injected engine. I seen this type of nostart, soaked plugs quite often. Sometimes there was a tsb reflash witb new plugs and oil change (fuel dilution of oil), sometimes just plugs and oil change.
I have pissed my car off a handful times where I had to hold throttle open to get it to fire.
If I happen to let up on the clutch while trying to start it, and the starter just clicked, it wont start on the second try or start and stumble til it clears up.
Yes I realize OP has a 3v, and JJ has an 18 I think. Not the same as mine. This is more of an FYI.

This issue has nothing to do with an oil separator. The separator is for high rpm, hard driving. Two separate issues.

Willie Omps said:

My new engine 326 Boss 50 block. 2.3 Roush supercharger.

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So this is a new build? Was it built specifically for FI? If so, the extra ring gap adds to the already mentioned issues. More blow by when cold forcing oil into places it shouldn't be. That oil makes it's way to the combustion chamber, which is still relatively cold. When you fire it back up you get that puff of smoke, exacerbated by the extra fuel from the cold start. I've never had a purpose built FI engine that didn't blow blue on startup.