oil pan gasket questions

MasterofDisaster

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Six or so months ago I saw a drop on the bottom of my oil pan, and I had a spot or two on the garage floor. The mess starts around the last few bolts on the sides of the oil pan and runs around the back of the pan. There's a some mess on the sheet metal between the bell housing and engine.
more bell housing.JPG
and

back of oil pan.JPG

The car is an 08GT with about 110k miles.

Questions:
  1. Is this time for a new gasket or is it a more complex problem?
  2. Most places offer Felpro gaskets; some Ford. What's the best gasket for a 4.6l?
  3. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=165&f=Oil Pan.pdf&p=1 says to lift the engine about 1.5" and lower the subframe about 2". Has any one just lowered the subframe? It would sound easier?
  4. The manual also says the gasket is reusable, but then say to discard it. Any point in reusing a gasket w/ 110k miles?
  5. If it's reusable, why not just retorque the pan bolts to 15lbft & give them an additional 60° per the manual?
  6. Any other thoughts or tips?
Thanks,

MoD
 

msvela448

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Try tightening the bolts... That's free and easy.

I'd clean off the oil from any surfaces after you tighten everything so you can trace any leaks in the days and weeks following.

If you replace the oil pan seal, use a new Ford / Motorcraft one. They are technically "reusable" but if it's leaking now why reuse it?

If you have a engine brace like this https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html you could remove the k-member and access everything very easily with the engine hanging in the bay... Otherwise you can't get the oil pan past the oil pump pick up tube, and oil scraper, without lifting and lowering things as you described.

If you are into the motor that far you should consider changing the rear main seal too... Even though it involves the tranny removal and clutch removal. There is also a plastic "dust seal" (Ford part is labeled as an "oil slinger" even though it doesn't really sling any oil) between the rear main seal and the flywheel that many people probably leave out or don't understand. It keeps fine clutch dust out of the seal area. (In the pic below the actual seal is named "oil retainer" and the dust seal is named "oil slinger"... And yes the special tool is very handy to install it squarely...)

Lastly... If I were going to the trouble to replace an oil pan gasket and rear main seal... I'd replace the front crank snout seal too... It's just the front cover removal which is a LOT easier than a tranny removal.

Probably $50 in parts, but a ton of labor.

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894af4ab6088df7c75118b9e2530e0d4.jpg
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MasterofDisaster

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Thanks, Raven. That's what I'm worried about too.
I had to replace the pan gasket on my 93 Foxbody after about 150k miles and after that the clutch, but I never had to replace the rear main.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Thanks, msvela. Ima try retorquing the bolts.
I pray it's not the rear main. That and the front seal are a lot of work.....
 

MasterofDisaster

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BTW - since the manual says to tighten in steps to 15lbft and add 60º, would you back out the bolts 1/2 turn before retorquing?
 

msvela448

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Retorque usually means unscrew it until it is loose, and then do the whole procedure 15 ft. Lbs. On each bolt in and then add the 60 degrees on each bolt in some kind of alternating pattern.

I've never found oil pan bolts to be that picky with regard to torque. Especially with the one-piece rubber gaskets. But it can't hurt to be precise.

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Mikeincool

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You could also have a leak from the front timing cover. There are 4 or 5 places were the timing cover can leak. Were the cover connects with the oil pan and were it crosses the block and head. I would clean the engine really good and see if you can find the source of the leak. Eventually everything winds up or down on the pan. It can be very frustrating. And if you have to replace the rear main seal, That sucks!! The transmission has 2 bolts at the top that took 2 days to get out when I replaced mine.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Thanks, msvela. I cleaned up the pan as best I could with STP wipes and some Simple Green. The whole pain rail had at least a little film on it, front and rear were the worst. It was not terrible for a 12 year old car.
B/c of the cross member, I couldn't access all the bolts, so I just ensured everything was 15ftlb. I'll take a look in another month or so. I've heard the oil filter adapter is a source of leaks. Maybe it's just my pan gasket seeping. I'll keep an eye on it.
 

GriffX

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My oil pan is oily all around, did you have success with re-tightening?
 

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