Reved up by mistake during lube cycling

My 2008 stang had sat for awhile so when this happens I am in the habit of cranking while holding the clutch & gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds to get oil up into the valve train & cylinders before firing it up. Unfortunately this time I must have limp-footed the gas pedal and it fired up resulting in RPM going thru the roof before I could get off the gas.
Seems to run fine, but wondering what damage could have resulted from this?
Thanks,
redir

Hopefully the top end of the engine still had enough lubrication to minimize any wear from start up.

Oil pressure shot up instantly too.......with no load in it you should be OK just listen for odd noises for a little while!!

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Hopefully the top end of the engine still had enough lubrication to minimize any wear from start up.

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+1 - Wear I can handle, but damage no. it had sat for several months - so

Coosawjack said:

Oil pressure shot up instantly too.......with no load in it you should be OK just listen for odd noises for a little while!!

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Good to know - wasn't sure how quick a squirt it could give. I'll be all ears for awhile fir sure. Thank you Sirs Dino & Jack

Am I missing something? What the OP said is blowing my mind. Why do you hold your gas pedal to the floor before cranking to lube up the motor. Lube doesn't flow with out the engine turning over. Again, surely I am missing something but holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking sounds insane to me.

Especially when it is “Fly By Wire” with no throttle cable or accelerator pump.

I've never heard of doing this either. How does holding the gas pedal to the floor get oil to the top end of the engine? Also, oil is plenty sticky, there will still be enough of a film to keep things slick for years.

OP, stop doing that as that is complete nonsense. Maybe just get an electric car if you are that afraid of oil not getting to the top end of the engine.

Even on a fresh motor build, I don't prime the oil pump as the assembly lube is sufficient to keep things moving until the oil pump primes up on its own.

Anti said:

Am I missing something? What the OP said is blowing my mind. Why do you hold your gas pedal to the floor before cranking to lube up the motor. Lube doesn't flow with out the engine turning over. Again, surely I am missing something but holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking sounds insane to me.

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Midlife Crises said:

Especially when it is “Fly By Wire” with no throttle cable or accelerator pump.

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When you hold the pedal to the floor while starting it cuts the fuel flow. This allows you to crank the motor without it firing and running. You usually would do this if you flooded the engine and you need to clear the cylinders. Though I don't think it is necessary you can use it to circulate oil within the motor before fire it up. I've done this with brand new assembled motors to insure the pump was working well but never have I done it with a motor that has just sat for a while. Maybe if it sat for years I might try and crank it just to see if it is not seized up.

You have an oil pressure switch that won’t allow the engine to start without oil pressure!

I do this same thing after I change my oil. It lets the oil circulate a bit and fill the filter before firing. Unfortunately, I also did this with my wife's car. Oops.
Just doing this once and very briefly won't cause damage. You'll do more damage going WOT before being fully warmed up.

13v6 said:

I do this same thing after I change my oil. It lets the oil circulate a bit and fill the filter before firing. Unfortunately, I also did this with my wife's car. Oops.

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You think there's no old oil still clinging on after an oil change? You're wasting effort worrying about something that just doesn't matter.

13v6 said:

Just doing this once and very briefly won't cause damage. You'll do more damage going WOT before being fully warmed up.

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Old wives tale. You have full oil pressure before it starts and being warm doesn't matter.

07 Boss said:

When you hold the pedal to the floor while starting it cuts the fuel flow. This allows you to crank the motor without it firing and running. You usually would do this if you flooded the engine and you need to clear the cylinders. Though I don't think it is necessary you can use it to circulate oil within the motor before fire it up. I've done this with brand new assembled motors to insure the pump was working well but never have I done it with a motor that has just sat for a while. Maybe if it sat for years I might try and crank it just to see if it is not seized up.

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Trying to decide right now if I want to fire it up with the pedal to the floor just to see WTF happens. Nah, I've made it this far, ain't gonna risk it. Not saying I don't believe you. I just need to get home from work.

tjm73 said:

being warm doesn't matter.

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This is Bullshit. The engine tolerances are not as good cold as they are warm. The clamp forces are not as high cold as they are hot. It has been known and used for many decades that when using an aluminum engine with steel fasteners the aluminum expands more and faster than the steel bolts or studs holding it together. The clamp force increases as the engine warms up. Also the piston skirts on forged pistons are loose until they expand to fit the cylinder when warm. Some engines have a tapered bore when cold that becomes straight when it warms up because the cylinder is hotter at the top than the bottom. Hot or cold matters.

Midlife Crises said:

This is Bullshit. The engine tolerances are not as good cold as they are warm. The clamp forces are not as high cold as they are hot. It has been known and used for many decades that when using an aluminum engine with steel fasteners the aluminum expands more and faster than the steel bolts or studs holding it together. The clamp force increases as the engine warms up. Also the piston skirts on forged pistons are loose until they expand to fit the cylinder when warm. Some engines have a tapered bore when cold that becomes straight when it warms up because the cylinder is hotter at the top than the bottom. Hot or cold matters.

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Spot on.

Midlife Crises said:

This is Bullshit. The engine tolerances are not as good cold as they are warm. The clamp forces are not as high cold as they are hot. It has been known and used for many decades that when using an aluminum engine with steel fasteners the aluminum expands more and faster than the steel bolts or studs holding it together. The clamp force increases as the engine warms up. Also the piston skirts on forged pistons are loose until they expand to fit the cylinder when warm. Some engines have a tapered bore when cold that becomes straight when it warms up because the cylinder is hotter at the top than the bottom. Hot or cold matters.

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I've never seen on shred of actual evidence that hot or cold matters in a modern production car. Race car? Maybe. Modern production car? No. Doesn't matter.

In the 50's, 60's, 70's even 80's tolerances were relatively loose. But today, tolerances are much tighter. The difference between cold and hot for tolerances are not drastic. Why do you think they use hyper-eutectic pistons these days? They don't change shape/tolerances very much and that allows tighter tolerances and reduces emissions and the need to be warm to be clean.

EDIT: While clamp force may increase with heat, the cold clamp force is still sufficient. Have you even watched the Ecoboost torture test Ford did back in 2010/2011? That set a 3.5 engine up to run to near boil over temp, then in a matter of seconds they replaced all the oil and coolant with super chilled subzero fluids, ran it to near boil over again. They did this thermal shock test repeatedly. After days of this (without any failure by the way), they shut it down, tore it apart and measured everything. They found no measurable wear. You or I could not replicate this kind of abuse. Nor could how we drive, whether hot or cold, matter. And you know Ford does this test to all it's engines.

Production engines are made to run WOT cold. Because the factory knows someone will do it.

So there are 2 different issues here.

Running it hard before warmed up, pistons are not fully round and can cause cylinder wall damage. Vertical scores will be visible on the cylinder walls if an engine is run hard repeatedly not fully warmed up.

Overrev can cause valve float and piston to valve contact, bending valves. If this happened, you would know. Engine misfire and check engine light will be on.

As for priming the oil pump after an oil change, pointless.

tjm73 said:

production car? No. Doesn't matter

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I have an acquaintance who overheated his EcoBoost pickup last summer. Popped the head gasket just like any other engine could when boiling over. He ended up with resurfaced heads and new head gaskets just like you would expect. New head bolts also I think. Thermal shock is a bitch.
It is true that modern engines are tighter than engines of the past. The EPA has a lot to do with that.

There is a difference between boiling your engine over and running to near boiling over. Actually boiling over is a failure. I'm surprised that in today's engines they don't shut them selves down to limp mode before failure. It's not like they don't already monitor the various temps. It seems it would be easy for the system to see what's happening and cut power drastically causing the driver to pull over and allow the car/truck to cool down before actual failure.

Yep, pretty pointless. Only time I've done it is to verify the pump turns with the motor, never to pre-lube anything. I don't think it hurts anything. I do pointless things just because I've always done them. Like inspecting plugs. These things are supposed to last 10 years now but I pull them at least twice a year.

tjm73 said:

There is a difference between boiling your engine over and running to near boiling over. Actually boiling over is a failure. I'm surprised that in today's engines they don't shut them selves down to limp mode before failure. It's not like they don't already monitor the various temps. It seems it would be easy for the system to see what's happening and cut power drastically causing the driver to pull over and allow the car/truck to cool down before actual failure.

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Actually, i believe a 2011 explorer i had did this. I'm sure i read that in an overheat situation three of the six cylinders are deactivated, essentially becoming air pumps - to reduce heat and allow you to limp to safety.