Intermittent start, Supercharged

DieHarder · Jul 26, 2020

If you're talking about the relay itself the most common type I've seen in my car (2006) is "B" on pg 5-8. To test it refer to the chart on the bottom of the page. Using a VOM you should be able to see voltage between pin 30 - gnd; then key-on to see voltage on pins 86, 87.

For the 0690 use the test procedure. B1 advises if you have DTC 0690 go to test B13 and follow the procedure for the PMCRC resistance check. If I'm reading it right use continuity/ohms to test resistance from B35 to ground (use the body ground on the passenger shock tower). If that's good then go to B14 (Ignition Switch Position - Run; ISP-R). If the rest of section B checks out we can pursue a No-Start condition (Pinpoint test A) except that the engine does start for a second or two but won't stay running. Best guess is something mis-wired or shorted.

Did you find anything going over the harnesses?

TylerM · Aug 4, 2020

DieHarder said:
If you're talking about the relay itself the most common type I've seen in my car (2006) is "B" on pg 5-8. To test it refer to the chart on the bottom of the page. Using a VOM you should be able to see voltage between pin 30 - gnd; then key-on to see voltage on pins 86, 87.

For the 0690 use the test procedure. B1 advises if you have DTC 0690 go to test B13 and follow the procedure for the PMCRC resistance check. If I'm reading it right use continuity/ohms to test resistance from B35 to ground (use the body ground on the passenger shock tower). If that's good then go to B14 (Ignition Switch Position - Run; ISP-R). If the rest of section B checks out we can pursue a No-Start condition (Pinpoint test A) except that the engine does start for a second or two but won't stay running. Best guess is something mis-wired or shorted.

Did you find anything going over the harnesses?

I didn't see anything. Unwrapped and chased the wires from pins 35 and 36. Only 1 went to the BEC. The other went to the SJB. No breaks or frays. Everything intact. Still only getting 76 ohms of resistance which fails the test.

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DieHarder · Aug 5, 2020

Okay, since the test fails we'll need to chase all connections in that circuit to determine why. Chase both lines to determine what they connect to. Which one are you getting 76 ohms to ground (may need to disconnect the other line; should only have to pull a plug/relay/fuse). Find both in the electrical diagrams and follow them through the circuit. I'll see if I can find anything additional in the service manual and get back to you. Sent you a PM w/number if you'd like to talk over where you're at so far. JM

TylerM · Aug 5, 2020

DieHarder said:
Okay, since the test fails we'll need to chase all connections in that circuit to determine why. Chase both lines to determine what they connect to. Which one are you getting 76 ohms to ground (may need to disconnect the other line; should only have to pull a plug/relay/fuse). Find both in the electrical diagrams and follow them through the circuit. I'll see if I can find anything additional in the service manual and get back to you. Sent you a PM w/number if you'd like to talk over where you're at so far. JM

I'm getting 76 ohms on B35 and B36. I checked it by inserting a wire into the pin on the connector and hooking it to the red lead, then grounding to the body.

Battery power should be connected correct? And negative disconnected.

What's your time zone. I have an applied mechanics final this evening that I'll have to work around. I'm Eastern Standard.

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TylerM · Aug 5, 2020

I checked pinout on B35 and B36 again. This time I connected one lead to the pin and one lead to the battery postive cable. I got over 50k ohms of resistance. I have continuity in the wire. Per the wiring diagram specific to my model year, I do not have pins for the ISP-R nor the INJPWRM.

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DieHarder · Aug 6, 2020

I'm east-coast time as well. Home every day. Anytime you have a minute is fine.

TylerM · Aug 12, 2020

Alright, it's been a few days but I am happy to say that the car is running and drivable (enough to tune atleast).

I cleaned all the plugs and connectors with QD cleaner. Proceeded with pinout tests. All pins checked good. Checked continutiy on all the pcm power relay wires and all the wiring for the PATS system. Everything checked out.

After talking with the tuner and finding the revision from Kenne Bell, I ordered a set of standard iridium plugs to swap out in place of the step colder autolites. Car fired right up without a hitch. No codes.

I'm thinking cleaning and doing the pinout tests cleaned up the contacts real nice to make complete connections. As for the no start, definitely caused by the plugs.

Attached are pictures of two of the plugs I pulled. About half the plugs looked like this.

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DieHarder · Aug 12, 2020

Yack... Are those new? Look like they've been in there for a couple of years.

TylerM · Aug 12, 2020

DieHarder said:
Yack... Are those new? Look like they've been in there for a couple of years.

Those are new install with the supercharger

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Intermittent start, Supercharged

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