What have you done to your mustang today?

JJ427R

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Getting ready for the Mohawk Track Experience at Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, MI next week. Put new rotors and pads on the car. If it wasn't for the track what was on would have been fine, but they were pretty worn and well beyond 50%. Also flushed and filled the brake lines with DOT4 fluid. Went for a quick drive to bed the new pads and got home a few minutes before the thunderstorm hit.

Need to change the oil this weekend, balance and rotate the tires, and then it will be ready.
Have a great time, buddy of mine from Chicago area will be there, drives a Blue Focus RS #61. Believe he is also running at Waterford hills later in the week, Thursday or Friday? I can put you in touch, Rick is his name, great guy. Look him up, tell him Jay from MN sent you and misses him.
 

07 Boss

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For the S197 Corbeau also makes a 4 point harness and harness bar, I have both in my 2010 with my Roush seats. Their 4 point uses the factory locations as well. The harness bar is a little bit of a job to put in and reduces access to the back seat, but allows proper angle for the harness over the shoulders. It also adds stiffness to the car. I still have the factory harness and use both on the track so my seat belt alarm doesn't ding. I put the 4 points on first, then pull the factory over the top.

4 point harness
https://www.americanmuscle.com/corbeau-2in-4pt-harness.html

harness bar
https://www.americanmuscle.com/corbeau-harness-bar-0512.html


I have a corbeau harness and bar but nothing about it is DOT approved.
 

07 Boss

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I swore at it as I pulled in my driveway with her running hot. Gonna go out in a bit to start investigating. The Meziere pump is only a couple months old but I’ll start with the wiring and that. Then check fan operation.
 

JimC

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Have a great time, buddy of mine from Chicago area will be there, drives a Blue Focus RS #61. Believe he is also running at Waterford hills later in the week, Thursday or Friday? I can put you in touch, Rick is his name, great guy. Look him up, tell him Jay from MN sent you and misses him.
I am running on Wednesday the 12th. Mohawk is Tuesday and Wednesday. Waterford might be Thursday and Friday, don't know about it.

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JJ427R

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I am running on Wednesday the 12th. Mohawk is Tuesday and Wednesday. Waterford might be Thursday and Friday, don't know about it.

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The Waterford thing is with the Roush Road Crew, check their facebook page. It usually happens the same week as the Woodward Dream Cruise. Roush usually has their Homecoming and open house that week too. Jack Roush Jr. and Vaughn Gitten Jr. usually show up and run with them. Have not looked to see if any of it is happening this year or not?

I just contacted my friend Rick and he will be at Gingerman with his son Ryan (drives a BMW) and another buddy Bill (drives a Silver/Blue Roush 427r). All great guys so look them up. Have a safe and great day! Hope to see some video.
 

07 Boss

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So that was weird. Not sure what happened or why it overheated. Fan is working, pump is pumping and the thermostat opens. Sat idling with ac on in the driveway 20 minutes. Had to hold it at 2500 to get it to here where it normally sits. Sat for another 10 minutes. Went for quick drive, couple of quick wot pulls and brought her home. Gauge still looks like this.




Only thing I can think of was maybe low on water. Put a new pump in a couple 3 months ago. Been doing daily duties 100*+ days with no issue. Can’t really see it being low on water but that’s my only explanation after not being able to repeat it. Weird though. I’m pretty anal about checking everything but it has been a couple of months since she’s actually been in my garage.
 

Juice

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Post event inspection/repairs.
Inspection revealed I used up my brakes, completely. Installed new pads and flushed fluid before the the events. In 3 track days, (2@WGI 10x25min, 1@Summit main 6x25min) just over 500 track miles driven, completely wore out pads, melted caliper boots. Just got done ordering over $800 in just brake parts! (4 rotors, new front pads, reman calipers)

Located and repaired exhaust leak that developed at the Glen. I thought I cracked a header, but it was just a blown header-to-cat gasket. Cleaned both flanges and applied a thin bead of rfv, no gasket.
 

GlassTop09

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Installed these this morning\afternoon:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-front-lower-control-arms-2005-2010/p/M3075E/

Had been noticing lately that the front end of my '09 GlassRoof had started to give a little shimmy thru the steering wheel momentarily when rolling over rough patches of road & sometimes on initial application of brakes but then would quit shortly afterwards while brakes were still engaged. I knew that I had already replaced everything on the front end (new brake pads\turned rotors, new Koni SRT ST struts\shocks...the orange non-adjustables, new tie-rod ends (outers only...inners checked out as good at the time) & new Ford Performance 07-09 GT500 upper strut mount upgrade kit) within 1 yr after I bought it so the only front suspension parts installed that were still original to the car were the 2 OEM front lower control arms, 2 OEM inner tie rod ends & 2 OEM front springs. Figured the rear big bushings on the 2 OEM front lower control arms had started giving way on the back side.....and I've wanted to eventually upgrade to these 07-09 GT500 FLCA's anyway for some time so I ordered a set some 4 weeks back but just now got around to installing them (went OOT to Denver, CO....drove up in the '09 MKS w\ all the necessary COVID-19 kit in hand....to take the wife to get a 2nd opinion on her Rt foot's big toe....been operated on several times but keeps rejecting the hardware put in to immobilize it to allow the new bone put in her toe joint to fuse causing a lot of pain while walking & while there attended her younger son's 48th birthday party...he's a dentist so he has a COVID-19 routine he uses at home as well as at his practice to help prevent COVID-19 infections\spread.....then put ourselves thru the std 14 day quarantine adopting my stepson's COVID routine once we got back home in NM....all went well & all came back negative so we good but I got a little lazy during this time as well....too damn hot outside).

Got all installed (made right call as both inner tie rods still checked out good & found the big rear bushings on both OEM FLCA's had started splitting away from the inner steel sleeve on the back side closest to the unibody & I slotted the 2 outer holes in the K-member while I had the FLCA's out so that caster can now be set on both sides...had already installed a set of Ford Performance Caster bolts in the inner K-member holes for the rear FLCA bushing that are already slotted ahead of time) then reset caster back to where I had marked the inner caster eccentric alignment position prior removal. Got both FLCA pivot bushing bolts out w\o having to move the rack (followed CJ Pony Parts Bill Tumas's installation procedure video but I also removed the tie rods from the spindle to get that extra bit of downward\away movement along w\ fully collasping the inner tie rod boots to clear the front pivot bolt head after running the inner tie rod joints in towards rack housing fully then reversed all after getting the bolt back in & threaded up thru the new FLCA's front pivot bushing) then tightened\torqued all back up fully except the FLCA's front pivot bushing as these are tightened once the front end is loaded (inner bushing sleeve is serrated on both sides so is designed to bite into the K-member) to center it so this was done last.

Put car on the ground & test drove after putting all tools up & clean up.....front end is solid now w\ no shimmying regardless.....I now wish that I had done these sooner as this front end is tight, smooth & quiet & alignment is still good as now it will recenter itself to within 1\2 T of center on it's own & steering wheel will stay straight & car maintains straight tracking w\ hands off steering wheel once steering wheel is centered (running 255\40\18's up front on Ford Performance SVT 07-09 GT500 OEM 18" x 9.5" wheels) but I'm gonna get her put on the rack again anyway for a check up once I get ahold of a 1\2" reamer so that I can properly slot out the lower strut mounting holes (ream both sides at the same time to maintain hole alignment) so that camber can be set (I have Ford Performance Camber bolts installed as well....P side is already slotted as some camber adjustment was needed to bring back into spec but the D side isn't as all else was still in spec when I had her aligned after all the other items mentioned above were installed prior so Ford dealer didn't touch it but I installed the D side camber bolt along w\ both caster bolts afterwards anyway so they would be there when needed).

Excellent replacement part & recommend to use this M-3075-E kit to replace FLCA's on any 05-09 V6\GT..........

In the process I also had ordered the Lisle 46800 inner tie rod removal\installer master tool set along w\ a pair of Lisle inner tie rod boot clamp pliers bout 6 weeks back to get ahead of the game since I own 3 vehicles that use power assisted rack & pinion steering & the miles are racking up on all of them. Already had to use the pliers on the '09 MKS 1st part of July to replace a bad rt inner tie rod boot (not the right boot for this rack....was busted at the rack mounting end as well, found while I replaced the rt FLCA due to finding a busted rear bushing...lft FLCA checked out good...also replaced both outer tie rod ends (found 1 outer had gone bad but both inner tie rods checked out good), after wife reported front end had started shaking while braking but pads\rotors checked out good then got it realigned after all repairs done......

Good timing.....................
 

nfrizell

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New DOB alternator
c28e7714e9b33741a4c83d102c0e816f.jpg


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GlassTop09

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Finally broke down & pulled all 4 wheels, pulled all 4 calipers & cleaned all caliper slide pins & sockets along w\ the boots & greased them w\ fresh NAPA hi temp grease, loaded the boots & sockets w\ some extra fresh grease, greased the back side of all the pads & reassembled all (this is the 1 part about this Stang that I have some heartburn over.....especially on the rear.....I've had to replace both rear caliper brackets & both rear rotors once already since I bought her 3 yrs ago due to froze\stuck caliper slide pins....all happened after I did the 1st full brake job on her when I got her & I checked all the slide pins & boots in the sockets & all were good & pins smooth\free so I didn't see a need to pull them & grease them....wrong!) due to recently again hearing the clicking\clacking from the rear brakes whenever I applied the brakes while driving. So far I've tried some Permatex silver hi temp anti seize & some Permatex white lithium grease on these things but it didn't last long before I began to start hearing the clicking\clacking again (caliper pins getting dry enough in the sockets to start lightly dragging the outboard brake pads against the rotors & the clicking\clanking is the caliper piston(s) taking the slack up on the inboard brake pad when it pushes the pad against the rotor) so I'm hoping that this NAPA hi temp grease I got ahold of will hold out for at least a couple of yrs. Rotated my tires while I was at it as well (side to side as I'm running a staggered set). Test drove afterwards on checkout & all quiet & smooth now as it should be when the brakes are applied.

If anybody know of a better product to use on these things that will hold up over time I'm all ears as I DO NOT want to have to be doing this every 3-6 months to keep from ruining pads\rotors.........

Also while under there I pulled the front wheel well splash guards & swapped out the aftermarket clear side marker\turn signal housings (non OEM part that came w\ the car) & installed the OEM yellow ones I got cheap off a YouTuber who had done the opposite w\ his Stang) along w\ new clear std 3157 bulbs (wanted to go w\ LED 3157 bulbs as well but they caused my flashers\sequential taillights some grief due to the current load imbalance). I'm gonna look into resolving this issue as I want to go full LED w\ all of these (front\rear side marker lights are LED bulb equipped already).

Just like the look of the OEM yellow housings against the ebony black bumper much better.
 

dark steed

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Did a full timing job.
7fbee3be0fec6c1102421a0fa74b277c.jpg


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I have had the FRPP timing kit for a couple of years now. Never really had a place to install it until I bought my house a year ago. But I let my daughter borrow it for several months and I haven’t gotten it back yet LOL
I guess when I get it back, there’s no better time to install the brand new Hot Rod cams I’ve had for five years when I do the timing kit LOL
I might even try to tackle the Kooks headers I’ve had for three years…


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JEWC_Motorsports

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I have had the FRPP timing kit for a couple of years now. Never really had a place to install it until I bought my house a year ago. But I let my daughter borrow it for several months and I haven’t gotten it back yet LOL
I guess when I get it back, there’s no better time to install the brand new Hot Rod cams I’ve had for five years when I do the timing kit LOL
I might even try to tackle the Kooks headers I’ve had for three years…


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Sir, get to work.
 

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