Moving to the next stage

BlueChappy

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So I have a 2005 S197 with easy bolt on mods. I have the basics. Cold air intake, x-pipe, axle back exhaust, 80lb injectors, 375 lph fuel pump, msd ignition coils, 3.55 gears, finned differential cover. But I’m wanting to go to the next step in increasing RWHP. I want to get shorty headers, cams, new heads, roller rocker arms, and more...

HOWEVER, before that, I’m planning on putting on a body kit, suspension kit, new wheels. All to help harness any additional power I am able to get.

I was leaning on the Roush suspension kit. But before I purchased, I wondered what everyone might have on their S197.

My goal is to get to 500 rwhp eventually. Or more...

Thanks ahead of time for your input.
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BlueChappy

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I do plan on putting a supercharger on eventually. Just have to do it in stages for financial reasons.


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07 Boss

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Good. Build from the ground up.

I’m a big BMR fan. Even went BMR on my F-body that I’m currently building. Anyways quality and service is outstanding. Let them know what you want to do to your car. They will recommend which springs and what not and guide you on proper dampeners for your set up. Talk to Kelly when you call them.
 

JJ427R

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I was leaning on the Roush suspension kit. But before I purchased, I wondered what everyone might have on their S197.
I have the Roush Sport suspension on my 2010 427r, been very happy with it and on it's 10th year and just under 60,000 miles and 28 track days. Only had a bad sway bar bushing replaced shortly after I got the car new.
 

BlueChappy

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Good. Build from the ground up.

I’m a big BMR fan. Even went BMR on my F-body that I’m currently building. Anyways quality and service is outstanding. Let them know what you want to do to your car. They will recommend which springs and what not and guide you on proper dampeners for your set up. Talk to Kelly when you call them.

Thank you.


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RavenGT

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So I have a 2005 S197 with easy bolt on mods. I have the basics. Cold air intake, x-pipe, axle back exhaust, 80lb injectors, 375 lph fuel pump, msd ignition coils, 3.55 gears, finned differential cover. But I’m wanting to go to the next step in increasing RWHP.

When I think "next step" from a 2005 I think 2011-2014. I wouldn't dump piles of money into a 3v. But that's just me...Not to mention you already have roller rockers and heads are limited to pricey ported OEM castings.
 

BlueChappy

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When I think "next step" from a 2005 I think 2011-2014. I wouldn't dump piles of money into a 3v. But that's just me...Not to mention you already have roller rockers and heads are limited to pricey ported OEM castings.

What you’re saying makes sense, but it’s the 2005 body style that I like. I thought about it though. If I jumped, it would probably be to an S550.


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RavenGT

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That would make sense. 15-17 really aren't worth it. Ugly and not much more potent than an 11-14. 18-21-go for it.
 

bmeaggie

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Good stuff. Going through the stages of building is the best part of having a go-fast car for me. I think it’s great that you want to get the car planted before boosting the engine.

Since you are asking, like others, I did all BMR in the rear and immediately noticed less wheel spin after installing the non-adjustable upper and lower control arms with upper and lower relocation brackets.

For springs, I started out with BMR lowering springs but they dropped the front end too much. Then I switched to Steeda Ultra-lites and they are just right.

To square up the wheel base after lowering the car and further stiffen things I added a BMR adjustable Panhard Rod and BMR Upper Panhard Suppord Brace.

I’m very happy with this setup (or I would have changed it already), and would recommend it to anyone looking to increase traction and eliminate wheel hop while maintaining acceptable ride quality.

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BlueChappy

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I’m very happy with this setup (or I would have changed it already), and would recommend it to anyone looking to increase traction and eliminate wheel hop while maintaining acceptable ride quality.

Do you have a side view of your car? I’d love to see how it sits. Here’s mine. It looks like a 4x4 right now.
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bmeaggie

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Do you have a side view of your car? I’d love to see how it sits. Here’s mine. It looks like a 4x4 right now.
7cb7b57f0527c0d0d54a967f1e05413c.jpg



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The one I just added to my post is the only one I’ve ever taken since I finished the work in my signature. I’ll try to remember to take a perpendicular shot like yours and add it tomorrow.
 

BlueChappy

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[emoji23] I didn’t even see your picture the first time. Sorry about that.


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bmeaggie

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[emoji23] I didn’t even see your picture the first time. Sorry about that.


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No worries... I went back and added it... it probably wasn’t there when you first looked.

The wheels are 20”... and the tires are 255/30 and 295/30. I will go to at least a 35 series next time, and might even do a 40 on the rears.

I like lowered, but not TOO low where I have to worry about fronts rubbing on corners, rears grabbing the fender when drag racing, etc.
 

BlueChappy

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The wheels are 20”...

I like lowered, but not TOO low where I have to worry about fronts rubbing on corners, rears grabbing the fender when drag racing, etc.

So, you have 20”, but I’m reading a lot about 20’s dropping the RWHP lower than if there were 19’s. Have you experienced that? I like the 20’s but I’m looking to maximize the hp.

As far as driving or hitting. I have the same thought process you do.
 

bmeaggie

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So, you have 20”, but I’m reading a lot about 20’s dropping the RWHP lower than if there were 19’s. Have you experienced that? I like the 20’s but I’m looking to maximize the hp.

As far as driving or hitting. I have the same thought process you do.

I’ve always had 20’s on this car... so I can’t compare to 19’s personally. Large wheels do raise your overall gearing... making the vehicles legs longer, as they say, but I always thought the dyno was configured with these parameters so it would measure your whp accordingly. How the gearing plays out over the course of a run depends on vehicle power. If you want 20’s, might want to wait until you add forced induction. Or if you don’t want to wait you could lower the gearing out back to compensate or more... like go to 3.73 or even 4.10’s. My basic point is that wheels are just one of the key things that impact overall gearing. If you want large diameter wheels, you can lower your gearing and regain control of the end result. I’ve personally never played around with gearing much, but I’m sure there are people far more knowledgeable than I on the forum. Maybe they will chime in.
 

BlueChappy

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So, 80lb injuectors on a N/A 3v?
Why? Even with a power adder, 80lb injectors are watly overkill.

You’re right. But my ultimate goal is to put a supercharger on it. I’ll need the fuel then.


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utlong31

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I’d probably sell you mine for what your going to have in yours. It’s everything your wanting and maybe a little more.


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