2005 GT driveshaft

rocky61201

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Hopefully a combination of a few different things will give you the clearance you need. Otherwise you're going to have to guess which new shifter might work and wait for it to show up.
 

saleen836

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Without seeing the rivet, I’m guessing it’s there to balance the DS, so there’s not much you can do with that. I have an auto. Is there a way you can shim the shifter to raise it? Put washers between trans mount and body to lower back of trans? Is the part of the shifter something that can be grounded off?
This is what I discussed with my mechanic, he is very good so will try this first and a last resort is to just remove the SS block
 

RED09GT

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Does the block really do that much? I never found that the throw with the stock shifter was the problem. I'd try running without it and then save for an MGW shifter.
 

saleen836

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Does the block really do that much? I never found that the throw with the stock shifter was the problem. I'd try running without it and then save for an MGW shifter.
Removing the Saleen added block is what has been decided upon, I can live with a bit longer throw in the stick untill more research has been done to determine which SS kit works with a 1=piece driveshaft.
For those that have commented on this thread who are running a 1-piece drive shaft, are you running the standard shifter (man g/box) or aftermarket SS kit, if the latter which kit do you have?
 

RED09GT

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I have a different transmission (TR6060) and I am running an MGW shifter with the shaftmasters 3.5" driveshaft and no issues with clearance. Car has Steeda Sport springs and is just over an inch lower than stock.
 

saleen836

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Just back from picking up the car, first thing I noticed was the difference in gearchange! gear stick feels a bit looser than it was with the Saleen SS block, throw is noticably longer but nothing horrendous that I can't live with until I get a SS kit, the clunking when changing gear with the original 2 piece shaft has stopped and the car feels quicker when accelerating, well worth the investment but annoying that I had to lose the Saleen short shift.
Hopefully someone will reply with what short shift kit they are using on a manual transmission that works with a 1-piece drive shaft!
 

AndrewNagle

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Just back from picking up the car, first thing I noticed was the difference in gearchange! gear stick feels a bit looser than it was with the Saleen SS block, throw is noticably longer but nothing horrendous that I can't live with until I get a SS kit, the clunking when changing gear with the original 2 piece shaft has stopped and the car feels quicker when accelerating, well worth the investment but annoying that I had to lose the Saleen short shift.
Hopefully someone will reply with what short shift kit they are using on a manual transmission that works with a 1-piece drive shaft!

MGW shifter with a Drive Shaft Shop one piece on my 2007 and no issues
 

ghunt81

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That is weird. I didn't have any clearance issues at all with my Tri-Ax.
 

Flusher

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Thread revival!
It has been a while but with a delay from DSS as they were on back order then waiting for the container to arrive here in the UK I finaly dropped my car off with my mechanic last night for him to fit the prop shaft today,that is as far as it got as he hit a big snag!
The bottom of the gear linkage catches on the shaft! :angry1:

The part circled in this photo is the offending item! (that along with a screw/rivet on the shaft right where it meets said item)
Was this part added by Saleen to give the short shift?View attachment 74479

Did you get a 1350 U-joint driveshaft?
 

Flusher

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No idea what that is, I got a 1-piece Drive shaft shop drive shaft for a 5 speed 2006 GT

1350 is the size of the U-joint. Looking on their website really quick, I saw shafts with 3.25 and 3.5 inch tube with either CV or 1350 front joints.

If you switched from a CV style front joint to a 3.5" tube 1350 U-joint, those yokes are pretty big.
 

Pentalab

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I have a DSS DS on my 2010 auto. It's a 1350 U joint at front end....and a CV at back end. Shaft is 3.5" OD.
 

Flusher

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I have a DSS DS on my 2010 auto. It's a 1350 U joint at front end....and a CV at back end. Shaft is 3.5" OD.

Maybe I got it backwards.

Is it THAT tight around the front yoke?

Do you have the same shifter mod?

I only see the 3.8 and 4 inch tubes in carbon fibe . If those fit... The yokes are even bigger on those. Comparatively speaking, a steel driveline, with the same joints, is much smaller
 

Pentalab

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Maybe I got it backwards.

Is it THAT tight around the front yoke?

Do you have the same shifter mod?

I only see the 3.8 and 4 inch tubes in carbon fibe . If those fit... The yokes are even bigger on those. Comparatively speaking, a steel driveline, with the same joints, is much smaller

I have a 2010 automatic....so apples and oranges. It was plug and play. I did add the BMR rear tunnel brace..and mating NHRA safety loop.
 

Flusher

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Clearance was fine once the Saleen added block was removed

What I was getting at is, you shouldn't have to compromise.

I wish you posted a picture of what you referred to as a "screw/rivet." It is probably for balancing as was previously mentioned. If relocating that will permit you to use your Saleen block, you would need to have the shaft rebalanced. You would need to find a driveshaft shop that is capable of working with aluminum driveshafts.

Another thought, do you have the shaft that has a 1350 U-joint on both ends? Could you reverse the shaft by swapping yokes end-for-end?

A concern is how close is anything to the aluminum shaft? If anything rubs on it, even a wire, it will cut through the shaft. The head of a "screw/rivet" is not very tall. I would be very nervous about tight clearances with rubber trans/engine mounts.

Just trying to get you back to where you were before with your shifter.
 

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