Suspension ideas?

Norm Peterson said:

"Increasing anti-squat" is about improving initial launch bite, and what it amounts to is intentionally changing the side view geometry for that purpose r

There's a catch to how much anti-squat you should build in if it's a street driven car. It's possible to overdo things for the straight line to the point where the rear axle becomes oversteerish in nature, which can make for a rather unrelaxing (possibly "exciting" and not in a good way) drive.


Norm

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Thanks Norm for the explanation. I more or less understand the concept. Was just curious if anyone on here had done the reloc's on a stock height car, specifically for bite. I guess most don't bother with them unless they are lowering the car. For as cheap (and adjustable) as they are, might just slap a set in and see what happens. Kind of have to wait until spring now though, since I run a DR in the summer.

OX1 said:

Thanks Norm for the explanation. I more or less understand the concept. Was just curious if anyone on here had done the reloc's on a stock height car, specifically for bite.

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I'm pretty sure that some have.

I suggest not going to the most aggressive (lowest holes), certainly not right away. Roll oversteer + sudden emergency swerve or getting caught in the rain sounds like the kinds of excitement most of us could do without . . .


Norm

The BMR LCA relocate brackets allow for a 2-3-4" drop at axle end.... pick one.

For stock height - start with 2" and just drive it a while. Carefully work down an inch at a time (and drive it at the 3" level for a while) only if 2" isn't working well enough.


Norm

jewc75 said:

Strange single adj struts in the front, Viking Warriors in the rear, and BMR drag springs. Where you at in Texas?

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DFW area