1994 Mustang GT money pit I mean project

joe_momma

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Also found some a-pillar trim pieces and "instrument cluster bezel" over on FB. Dude is parting out a '95 V6, and I could use those parts. The a-pillars on the car are fine, but I'm planning to install the tweeters for the components there if I can make it work. I'd like to have a spare set to jack around with in case I foul up. The bezel I need because the PO had an aftermarket alarm installed and there is a rocker switch and a LED leftover in that bezel. Nothing world shattering, but it is one of those things that bugs me every time I get in the car. I'm just waiting on a "best price shipped" since I'm buying both. Those dang a-pillars are high AF on eBay for what they are, and the bezel is hard to find as well.
 

joe_momma

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Didn't feel well after work, so no progress was made last night. Tonight I'll be working on my door latches on the truck (see the pissed off thread for details lol).
 

joe_momma

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Drove the car this morning, running good with the exception of the latest issue: when coming to a stop with the clutch in, the car dies. If I put it in neutral, it will stay running. Not sure what's going on there. I noticed it the last time I drove it, but didn't think anything of it as it was a short trip and the car is pretty cold-natured.

Airbag light flashing gives a code of 52 (five flashes, pause, two flashes). This points to an issue with the passenger seat belt buckle switch:
short to ground
resistance out of range
short to battery

So, I'll check the switch and see what's going on. It could also be in the wiring somewhere.
 

Juice

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With the stalling, I think an idle relearn is needed.
I would:
Clean the throttle body.
Get the car to full temp.
Disconnect battery for ~10-15 min.
Start car, and let it idle 3 minutes. Put in drive and idle for another 3 minutes.
Thats the jist of it.
 

joe_momma

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Is the procedure the same for manual? I'll Google it. It does seem to idle somewhat lower than I would expect.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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With the stalling, I think an idle relearn is needed.
I would:
Clean the throttle body.
Get the car to full temp.
Disconnect battery for ~10-15 min.
Start car, and let it idle 3 minutes. Put in drive and idle for another 3 minutes.
Thats the jist of it.

What he said but removing and cleaning the idle air bypass control valve is more likely to solve the stalling problem. If that doesn't work, it's a cheap enough part to replace.
 

Juice

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Totally missed the "clutch in" part. lol
Any issue going into reverse? Could it be clutch not fully releasing? The clutch cables do stretch on these cars. And if you think the pedal effort seems a bit high along with reverse grind, you could be looking at a worn clutch.
Sorry. Been there and done that.
 

joe_momma

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Found some stuff on the interwebs, I'll dive in to all of it over the weekend if I'm not camping. Smog delete goodies should be here too.

I haven't measured TPS yet. I'll check that, and clean the TB/MAF and air intake valve.

I don't think it's a clutch issue - PO said clutch was just replaced, and it goes in reverse fine. Not sure what clutch was installed, my guess is a factory-spec but it's a hell of a stiff clutch pedal for factory. I'll check adjustment on the cable too.
 

Juice

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If the clutch cable setup is stock, you adjust by pulling up on the clutch pedal.
No reverse issues tell me it IS releasing.
I dont like "hard to push" clutches.

I bought an 86 svo a while back. Owner insisted the clutch was fine, and installed a new cable only. I told him he was full of it, the clutch is done. Ended up pulling the engine to do rear main. Clutch was DONE toast.
 

joe_momma

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Smog block off plates are on the truck for delivery, I already have the belt. I'm probably pushing camping out until next weekend, so I should have some good wrenching time this weekend. As far as the connection to the exhaust/cats, I'll just pinch that closed until I can get to the exhaust shop. I'm planning to have the cats removed when I replace those Flowmasters. Doesn't look like my keyless fobs will be here until Wednesday (USPS/DHL shipping FTL) so I won't be able to test that until next week.

Update on the stalling - no issues at lunch yesterday or on the way home last night, or on another short trip to my parents' house for dinner. I'll still go through and check/clean everything while I'm working this weekend. It only takes a few minutes.
 

joe_momma

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Cleaned TB, MAF, and IAC deal. They were pretty dirty. Got the new serpentine belt on and pump removed. Could not get the bolts off the back of the head to remove the crossover tube. I even went and bought a air ratchet but couldn’t get it on well enough. AC lines and junk in the way. So, I just put some spark plugs and RTV in the end of some hose after the check valves.

I’m open for suggestions on getting those bolts off. I could get a wrench on but couldn’t budge them. I put some PB Blaster on but no help.
 

07gts197

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Double wrench it. I had to do that on my 87 grand Marquis. They came out no problem and they’ve probably never been removed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

joe_momma

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I might try and get a flex-head wrench on it. Meanwhile I’ve got it soaking in PB.

EDIT: I've hit it like 3-4 times with PB Blaster over the last couple of days. At this point, I'll be surprised if it doesn't burn to the ground with the amount of flammable solvent I've sprayed in there. Going to China Freight after work to get a flex-head ratchet and/or wrenches.
 
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joe_momma

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Also ordered the instrument cluster bezel and a-pillar trims from the FB SN95 group. I haven't received tracking yet, hopefully I haven't been scammed out of $85.
 

joe_momma

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LOL!!!! First I've heard of it called that. Fitting name.

Yeah, it's great for tools that I don't expect to need/use more than once. And yes, it is quite fitting. I imagine you'd be hard-pressed to find something manufactured stateside in there.
 

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