1994 Mustang GT money pit I mean project

Ah, hence all the dudes running aftermarket hoods....

Heads are probably a ways out at this point, but I can sneak a couple hundred bucks in an intake without too much grief lol.

It's mostly throttle body related I think. Trickflow makes an adapter to angle the TB down/forward for the SN95 install of there manifolds which are the same as the fox cars manifolds. They just add the adapter.

https://www.trickflow.com/search/product-line/trick-flow-sn95-throttle-body-adapters

It's like a hundred bucks though. Kinda shoots the "cheap" option down.

Maybe eBay?

Gotcha. Doing some googling over at the SN95-specific site, it seems the intakes will clear the hood, but generally the strut tower brace has to be modified/removed. It seems the Cobra braces will fit...more digging.

I was just going to say a SN95 focused forum might have guys that have/know how to do this.

May even find a guy selling an elbow (or whole intake) because he moved on.

jewc75 said:

Quit being a dumbass, im so happy you can google. I had the car and i know what was on it. Whether it was correct, who knows, i dont care. Back to his thread.

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Excuse me, I’ve owned a 98 v6, a 00 gt and 02 gt. I know what I’m talking about. That second pic is my 02 by the way. The point is I know because I’ve actually owned one.

Op sorry for derailing your thread but I don’t like being treated like I am stupid because I don’t post much.

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joe_momma said:

I've got to quit buying stuff or the wife is going to shoot me. I need to get these latest purchases wrapped up/installed. I've got the keyless module to get to and EGR to toy with.

I did have a question on intakes - looks like the Exploder intakes are still popular - basically a GT40 upper/lower intake? I've seen a few on eBay for decent money, but some list internal/external EGR...what's the difference, and which do I need (keep in mind I will likely delete my current EGR setup)?

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What's your budget?

jewc75 said:

What's your budget?

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Budget is minimal at this point lol. I'll be sleeping in it if I don't hold up on the spending. I'm really just trying to get an idea of the direction I want to go and keep an eye out for "deals" should they come along.

Fox’s and early explorers used an internal egr. The passages went through the intake to the egr valve. The sn95 used an external egr passage, a metal pipe directly from the passenger header to the egr valve itself. For easiest install, go for the later explorer intake with the external egr. You can tell because there is an extra hole in between the runners on the upper and lower intake that is not there on the later intakes. That is the internal egr passage.


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Are you looking to do an Explorer intake manifold or air intake? Air intake shouldn't hit the hood but the manifold may if it sits way up

intake manifold

EDIT: my Google-foo has led me to believe that it should clear stock hood, unless I'm running some type of crazy spacer to clear aftermarket valve covers. The stock GT strut tower brace has to be modified (not sure on those details) or you can run a Cobra brace. There's also an aftermarket brace that will clear the intakes - I saw it earlier, but can't remember the make. BBK maybe. That, and you have to have the throttle body adapter to angle it down.

Update: so it seems the keyless entry control module is present on mine. What’s missing is the anti-theft box which mounts to the same bracket as the keyless entry module.
I got my remotes in and started to program, but never got it in learn mode when I shorted the small gray connector pins with the ignition on. So, I’m guessing I need that module too. I’m not if I want to spend the money on it only for it not to work. Can anyone confirm that’s all I’m missing? It looks like the wiring is there, just the module is missing. I’m wondering if it was removed when the PO had his aftermarket alarm installed.
@golkhl - I can send this other module back to you if you want it. I may swap it in just to test, but I don’t think that’s my issue.

joe_momma said:

Update: so it seems the keyless entry control module is present on mine. What’s missing is the anti-theft box which mounts to the same bracket as the keyless entry module.
I got my remotes in and started to program, but never got it in learn mode when I shorted the small gray connector pins with the ignition on. So, I’m guessing I need that module too. I’m not if I want to spend the money on it only for it not to work. Can anyone confirm that’s all I’m missing? It looks like the wiring is there, just the module is missing. I’m wondering if it was removed when the PO had his aftermarket alarm installed.
@golkhl - I can send this other module back to you if you want it. I may swap it in just to test, but I don’t think that’s my issue.

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Is the anti theft box paired to the keys or can you swap just the box?

The 94 doesn’t have the smart/PATS keys. It’s just a plain key. I think PATS came around in 96. The box should just be replaceable. The joys of buying used.

Fixing previous owner(s) repairs/modifications sucks!

I'm thinking this issue is related to the PO aftermarket alarm install. Here's where I am:

- door lock switches work on both doors
- With car locked, lifting the door handle causes interior dome light to come on (I read this was an indicator of keyless being present - unconfirmed).
- Keyless entry module - present
- Anti-theft module - not present, but wiring appears to be there (there are two plugs taped to a harness bundle below the mount)
- car will not enter learning mode by jumping the two pins on the small gray connector with ignition on

I think my next step will be to swap in the KEM golkhl sent, and just make sure the one in the car isn't fried. I've seen different videos with and without the anti-theft module present, showing fob programming. So I don't think that module is required. That could introduce more problems by adding it in. Short of that, I would be looking into tracing wiring, which I'm not sure how deep in to that I want to get. If I could find the remnants of the installed alarm, that could be helpful. I can likely trace the leftovers in the dash (there is a switch and LED) to see where they go. I'll probably get in to that once my replacement dash bezel arrives. Outside of that, I can get an aftermarket system for less than $50. It doesn't take long for me to get past the time ROI with that in the back of my mind lol.

Turns out I’m an idiot apparently. The paperclip I was using to jump the pins wasn’t conductive enough. Grabbed a small socket and tried that. Worked like a charm. Keyless is working!

Next project will be sorting out the stalling. Need to get a meter and check tps voltage.

I also need to investigate timing.

Base timing is 10 degrees, I set mine at 12 degrees. Make sure you disconnect the spout connector(passenger side inner fender) before setting the timing.

Some 5.0's will take 14 or 16 degrees base timing. Run as much as the car will tolerate for the fuel you burn.

Is this the grey plug that you were talking about earlier? Looks like mine came from the factory with that green jump wire.

Joe, need any parts off a 1998? I know some of the New Edge parts upgrade some early SN95 stuff. Lemme know