Throttle Body Chatter

Hi
I have a heavily modified Saleen S197 which I took to the dyno several weeks ago. The car was running fine when I dropped it off.
Got a call to say there was an issue and was in limp mode
Unfortunately here in Australia there are not many S197's
Took the car home and it will only start with the throttle body disconnected and run in the limp mode
Tried reinstalling previous tune but to no avail.
With the throttle body connected it is making a chattering sound and won't turn over
It is showing these codes P2107 and P2110
Cannot clear these codes with my SCT tuner. Have 3.87 volts at each pin
Have put a new throttle body on.....same issue
Have changed numerous parts off one of my other S197's still same problem
Checked all fuses and relays plus earths....still nothing
The dash is showing "check charging system" and "DTE Data Error"

Running out of options any ideas or help would be appreciated

What about the gas pedal itself... Or the connection thereto... Since it's drive by wire maybe there's a problem on that side of the wiring.

I know you said you swapped the throttle body already... Codes do point to the TB being the issue though. When you swapped the throttle body did you perform the re-learn process?


You should see a voltage reading between 1.19-1.31 volts at the TPS with key on / engine off.... If you manually push the blades to open the voltage should smoothly sweep up to about 4.85v at WOT.... So maybe a bad TPS?... If you replace it... Do the same relearn process or....

- Turn the ignition key to the OFF position, then cycle the ignition key from the ON position 4 times to allow the car to "self check" the throttle body and sensors for proper operation. If the throttle body voltage and senors are correct then the CHECK ENGINE and FAILSAFE warnings should be gone when you turn the key on for the 4th time.

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Did u change the TB motor ?

If you swapped/replaced TB motor, did you turn it 180 degrees clockwise or counterclockwise ? Clockwise will screw things up

Rugermack said:

If you swapped/replaced TB motor, did you turn it 180 degrees clockwise or counterclockwise ? Clockwise will screw things up

Click to expand...

You’re talking about clocking the spring?

Ok Thanks for your help guys
Done the relearn......didn't know about this
Still got same issues
The throttle body I tried was a brand new Ford replacement with the TA and TPS
I Changed the Throttle Pedal with one of my other cars....no change
The readings I am gettle from TPS with the Throttle Body chattering
GY/WH 3.27
BL/LG .04
RD/LG 5.02
YE/WH 4.24
No variation on any moving Throttle Blades
Readings with the Throttle Actuator cable removed
GY/WH .04
BL/LG .04
RD/LG 5.02
YE/WH 4.84

Does this make any sense or help

stkjock said:

You’re talking about clocking the spring?

Click to expand...

Yes

Below is the pinout diagram.....based on your voltages I think one or both sensors in the TPS (basically potentiometers) are reading that the throttle blades are 75-85% open... Which is why you are in limp mode. The reference voltage is the 5v supply that's supposed to be there. The signal return is what goes to the PCM.

The voltage sweeps up as the throttle blades open... As discussed previously, you should see a little over 1v at idle / closed, and the voltage sweeps up as the blades open which is calculated as relative position. I'm not sure exactly how the two sensors work in these new TPS... I believe it's part of the redundancy and failsafe measures in the drive by wire system... I do know the PCM does some kind of a check between the two voltages from the sensor... Perhaps one goes up as the other goes down... Etc.

There are three different generations of TPS... I'd try a new one and do the relearn procedure... The latest one has the square / rectangular body... Picture below with part number.

Did the dyno guys do any tuning? Any way to roll-back to a previous tune? You might even flash back to stock, and then flash a "known good" tune.

After that I'd be tracing wires from the TB and TPS to the PCM to make sure you have continuity and no short.

Have you tried calling over to JDM Engineering... I know the time difference must be staggering (aren't you like 12 or 14 hours ahead of New Jersey?) https://www.teamjdm.com/

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FYI
I replaced my TPS and went to Ford for the part, when I received it , it was not the correct one, went to dealer and showed them the one I was taking out and they gave me the correct one. I have an 07 GT.