Maximum Motorsports Roll Bar install in a 2010 GT

Hello race fans. If you have come to the realization that you need a roll bar to be NHRA legal as I have follow along and I’ll cover the high points and any problems of installing a Maximum Motorsports Drag Race Roll Bar. This model is bolted into the chassis, has a welded in cross bar and back brace bars that will be welded after fitting. The door bars are removable by removing two bolts each.
After unpacking and checking for a complete parts list, this is basically what I received.

With the car up on stands and the rear wheels removed for access to the wells start by removing the front and rear seats. Next remove the sill plates, kick panels and the rear quarter panel trim. Unhooking the carpet clips under the sill plates and pulling a couple push fasteners will allow the carpet to fold to the canter console. I tied it with small rope to hold it out of the way.

The B pillar has bolt in corner gussets. Go figure! Remove a little seam sealer around the bolts and edges of the gusset and then remove the bolts. Now pry the gusset from the chassis and scrape away any old sealer that would interfere with seating the new MM gusset. Use the original bolts to install the new gussets. Extra washers are provided for shims if needed for a good fit. I did not use any.

I managed to get the main hoop in the car without gouging or scraping anything but really at this point a second set of hands is needed. I will fit the back bars tomorrow.

That’s it for today

Looking good! What are your plans for paint on the bar?

Good info and thanks for sharing. I like your dog!

Without more pictures of the doggo, this build thread sucks.

Thank you for posting this. What is the plan for seats?

My back declared there would be no bending or twisting today. I did stop buy the paint store and order PPG Urethane that matches the body color. Candy Dark Red (U6). This is a tri-coat color and the guy behind the counter thought I was nuts.

429244 said:

What is the plan for seats?

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I have seen looking at seats. Probably something from Corbeau. High back with a little more bolstering. Seems I would loose the side airbags when replacing the seats.

Check out the Braum racing seats. I switched from Corbeau to them.

Which Braums do you have?
What’s the advantage to you over the previous, I’m looking at seats and worry about the cheaper ones flexing and be made for the look crowd vs actual track use


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Moving on with the install. The instructions stress that the door bar mounting plates must set on the floor, snug against the sill. Seem sealer and sound deadening must be removed for a good fit. The asphalt sheet on the drivers floorboard is some hard stuff.

With the rear support bars and the door bars in place the main hoop is bolted in. Now a transfer punch or marker can be used to locate where the mounting holes will be drilled.

As I was trying to get my big ass in the back to mark where the holes go I realized getting in and out of the car with the door bars in place may be interesting. That’s it for today.

Sky Render said:

Without more pictures of the doggo, this build thread sucks.

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The boy took the day off. I busted him watching TV.

Thanks for the informative posts. This is a subject that helps us understand these products better and make good choices for ourselves. I’ll be looking forward for more.

Drilled 16 mounting holes in the floor pan and rear wells. I was surprised how thin the steel is. A 1/4” pilot drill blows through and the 7/16” final drill doesn’t have to work hard either. The instructions stress to be careful drilling the holes in the drivers side floorboard. There are fuel and break lines under two of the holes. This is real! Do not drill through the break line. I slid a steel plate between the bundle of tubing and the floorboard.

After the holes are drilled in the rear wheel wells you can fit the rear backup plates. I held the plates in position in the wheel well while my helper marked them for drilling from inside the vehicle. The front backup plates are predrilled.