Clutch job from hell... Help!

What everybody else said. Search for shimming the ToB and you'll find the old threads. Just under 1 inch of preload and you'll be in the ballpark. Don't forget to pick up a little bit longer bolts to account for the shim(s). M8 or M10 I think. I can't remember off the top of my head. For the record I have 2 shims on my setup. Pick up a rubber sink stopper from home depot and punch a small hole in it to assist in vacuum bleeding the system "pulling the air out from the top" at the master cylinder. Here is a youtube video of it I just found.

1 thing everybody forgot to mention. How old is your brake fluid and what color is it? Might want to consider flushing the entire system. Old nasty fluid doesn't give as much pressure as nice new clean fluid. Ever cooked your brakes on a really long and hard stop to the point you can smell it and see your rotors glowing red hot??? I did. Could not get into 1st until the fluid cooled down. Flushed the system the next day. Everything felt much better after that.

Bleed clutch on 2005- up Ford Mustang - YouTube

beatswellington said:

Hi guys, my 2005 Mustang GT is currently in the shop for a clutch replacement ... etc ...

1) Took out and bench bled Exedy slave cylinder after installation and metal bits came out, replaced slave cylinder, bench bled, and installed. Did not fix issue ... etc ...

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So, where do you rekon the metal come from? If more was in there, it would wreck a new slave if it wrecked the OEM one. OEM had plastic line, so metal likely came from master.

All of the above plus 1) have you checked the clutch disc for runout? I got caught with a new disc that had an issue caused at assembly. Linings were basically at an angle to the hub spline. This resulted in the clutch dragging on the pressure plate and flywheel faces even at full release resulting in the symptoms you describe. You can also cause this to happen if you let the trans “hang” once the spigot shaft has started to engage in the spline. 2) Check that the pressure plate friction face is perfectly parallel to to the pressure plate mounting face. If not, that too can cause the same symptoms.

8 times and a adjustable throw out bearing before we got it "Right"

Stevejr said:

8 times and a adjustable throw out bearing before we got it "Right"

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What make is the adjustable TOB, and where did you buy it?

Juice said:

Yup, throwout bearing preload/shimming. Especially with aftermarket clutches.
Shameless plug - Never had an issue with Centerforce clutches.

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I think you just made one of my future clutch job decisions for me. I don't see me ever doing much to the engine (NJ), so big power capability isn't ever going to be needed.

Thanks.


Norm

Norm Peterson said:

I think you just made one of my future clutch job decisions for me. I don't see me ever doing much to the engine (NJ), so big power capability isn't ever going to be needed.

Thanks.


Norm

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Centerforce Dual Friction. Stock feel, smooth engagement, and will hold 2x the power. I think the DF is pretty much the only choice now.
I have a stage2 Centerforce in my Torino, but that I got in 1997. Yikes thats a long time ago. lol

Juice said:

Centerforce Dual Friction. Stock feel, smooth engagement, and will hold 2x the power. I think the DF is pretty much the only choice now.
I have a stage2 Centerforce in my Torino, but that I got in 1997. Yikes thats a long time ago. lol

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Some years ago I was running a Centerforce DF between an EFI'ed 350 SBC and a Tremec TR3550 on a 1979 Chevy Malibu, so I'd probably have been inclined to lean that way. Just that more recently there's been a lot more attention given to clutch names that I know absolutely nothing about.


Norm