06 Gt Hot Rod cam install

Laga

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As with most things, there’s a right way and a wrong way to do things.
This discussion is from an engineering forum. Skip to the fifth post, it contains links from bolt and fastener studies.

https://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html

TLDR: Apply Anti-zeize to the threads and avoid the mating surface of lug nut and wheel. Also, Lug nuts loosen when there is movement between wheel and hub from lack of friction.
 

07 Boss

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I believe the 2 valve heads had an issue with plugs working loose and that is why I have always recommended not to use anti-seize on the threads. Either way if you pull, check and clean your plugs periodically you don't need to do any anti-seize anywhere. I have never left plugs in for years and never had an issue with one getting stuck or breaking.
 

DieHarder

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So the Brisk plugs and removal tool came in yesterday. Anyone know what I should set the gap at on these?

https://www.americanmuscle.com/brisk-silver-sparkplugs-3VR17YS.html

Nothing in Ford my manual for a gap on a V8. However, I did find a gap listing for plugs in my Chilton's manual for a V8 at 0.040 - 0.050 if that's any help.

I also have a 2006 GT and been gapping my Brisk plugs at .032 - .035 which is about what they come out of the box and never had any issues though I'm supercharged so not sure how much of a difference that makes or not. I also use a very small amount of anti-seize on the threads and remove them at least once a year to check gaps and clean the bores...cheap insurance IMHO to ensure nothing is seizing up.
 

Pentalab

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My cdn manual for my 2010 sez to gap plugs at 1.5 mm or .060".
Roush said to gap the plugs at .035" with my small M90 blower. (5.8 lbs of boost).
With the smaller pulley ( 8-9 psi), the gap is to be decreased to .032". VMP told me not to use plugs that are one step colder. One step colder plugs are not required until boost > 10.5 psi.
 

Pentalab

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To each their own but this isn't the 1970's anymore. Materials engineering has changed a lot since then.
I use anti-seize where it is called for it but never on spark plugs or lug nuts.

Anti seize works great on lug nuts, used sparingly. Then I reduce the TQ to 90 ft lbs. It could probably go a lot less. Ever look at construction bolts, like ASTM A-325 bolts (grade-5) ? The charts will provide for a 'wet'..and 'dry' TQ rating. (wet = lubricated with never seize, etc). It's a huge difference too, for each bolt size. Some example for the big bolts were like '525 ft lbs dry...and 375 ft lbs wet', etc, etc.

I use a lot of galvanized construction bolts, anchor rods etc when constructing radio towers. I went a few go arounds with the engineers at Portland bolt...in Portland Ore.

The gist is, you are not after TQ per se, you are after tightness, mashing 2 x surfaces together. With the lube on the threads, less TQ is required for a given tightness.

On stuff, like SS bolts, they have to be lubed, or they will dry weld together. I learned that the hard way, when using SS nylock nuts on SS bolts. The nylock nut would seize..and it was still 2 x threads from even touching, wtf?

On wheel lugs, it just makes getting em on and off easier each spring....and again in the fall.
A buddy of mine went on a hunting trip way out in the bush, 400 miles north of me, and of course ended up with a flat tire. No lube on the lugnuts..and of course, the dipshit 16 yr old kid who last rotated his tires 'went nuts' with the impact wrench. Buddy had a fuck of a time getting em off with the mickey mouse tire iron on his GM truck.

A thin layer of never seize at least keeps any surface rust from forming. Having said that, the local tire shop gave me supreme shit for using never seize. They are convinced the tires will...'fall off'. I check em with the 2' long TQ wrench..and they don't budge....still 90 ft lbs. I swap between rain tires and the bigger tires each fall..and again in spring. Never heard of a tire coming off due to use of never seize on lug nuts after 50 yrs, so I have to call BS on that wife's myth.
 

kstall

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2 plugs out so far using impact. Neither have broke but the porcelain shattered in both

PXL_20210401_142749731.jpg
 

Laga

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Fuel line removal tool. There is a round spring inside that needs to be pushed to the outside. DE6C5528-87D0-4290-A8A7-C66BD094178D.jpeg
 
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You might find the fuel line disconnect tool at Autozone etc. in their tool rental program. It's a valuable tool to have, but you really only need one size if you're only working on one car.
 

kstall

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Cool headed to parts store now. Got all 4 plugs on driver's side. None broke but 3 have shattered and drop porcelain pieces in cylinder
 

DieHarder

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Get yourself one of those long/thin blow gun extensions at the auto parts store/Harbor freight. Push it down into the cylinder and blow them out several times. Suggestion when you're removing plugs with the impact try to tease them out vice hammering 'em out. The porcelain shouldn't be shattering like that. Regardless, you want to get all of the porcelain out of there. If you have a bore scope worth looking down in each cylinder to ensure nothing remains.
 

Laga

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Do you have a shop vac? Take a piece of 3/8” poly tubing and duct tape to hose of shop vac. You can bend tubing to reach all areas of piston and suck out the porcelain bits. Also, see if you can rent borescope to inspect cylinder before installing plugs. Like this. 206953C8-5D50-4C45-82AC-E3968A3C8B36.jpeg
 

kstall

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Do we need to somehow relieve pressure off the fuel line before we disconnect it?
 

Midlife Crises

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Do we need to somehow relieve pressure off the fuel line before we disconnect it?
Yes remove the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine. Fuel pressure will drop and it will be much easier to disconnect the fuel line.
 

kstall

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So we made it to lunch and eating a sandwich. We have gotten all the plugs out and all but 1 had shattered porcelain.we have spent the past hour slowly rotating the crank, blowing out each cylinder, vacuuming each cylinder and repeating multiple times. You can see some of the pieces in this pic. I think we have it all cleaned out but we we will repeat the process before we install the new plugs just to be safe. I'm so paranoid and nervous right now. All in all it's going good. Valve covers are up next

PXL_20210401_170406726.jpg
 

DieHarder

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Go rent a bore scope or visit Harbor Freight. Think they're less than $100?
 

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