HELP! Looking for 2006 GT engine wiring Harness

Mrjiggy

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Hello, So I was just told my wiring harness and BCM are busted on my 06 GT. I'm currently looking to find a Harness so I can get it replaced anybody got one for a decent price? Let me know. Also the mechanic was telling me somewhere in the range of 4500$ for them to get the parts and do it. I know wiring harnesses are a pain in the ass, but that seems just a bit high.
 

thump_rrr

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What is the exact issue with the vehicle?
Did it catch fire?
Is it some local shop that is telling you this or the Ford dealer?

You should check is if any of the relays or wires in the fuse box melted.
Disconnect the battery and separate the top and bottom halves of the fuse box and look for melty things.

Another thing to check for is water intrusion on the passenger side footwell which can damage the Smart Junction Box behind the passenger kick plate.
 
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DieHarder

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Is your mechanic at a Ford dealer? Like doctors, many mechanics are specialists. Not all of them are experienced in diagnosing electrical problems. I'd take it to another shop to someone who knows what exactly they're doing to give you a second opinion. Replacing a electrical harness does take a bit of work and time so they're going to charge you for that time. Still, at $4500 depending on the problem you could save yourself a load of dough if you have the time, knowledge and a few pieces of basic test equipment.

For SA, wiring harnesses don't bust. They can short (wire to wire; wire to ground); open (wire parts) or corrode. They simply carry voltages and signals from one location to another. What failed exactly? If it's the PCM that doesn't also mean that the electrical harness must be replaced as well. Did they give you a diagnosis with the estimate? What does it say?

To start what are your symptoms?
 

Mrjiggy

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Sorry may have oversimplified a bit. Pretty much the windshield wiper motor has shorted out 3 times and I replaced it 3 times. Took it to a mechanic shop and they told me the harness is bad. My thought was if the harness was bad and shorting out then something else would be messing up too, but the only thing shorting is the wiper motor. As far as the BCM idk how that could be bad because again the only thing constantly going out is the wiper motor. I replaced the wiper cowl because I thought that might be causing it, but immediately replacing the cowl and wiper motor it shorted out again after it rained. All relays and fuses for the wiper motor look fine as well. I was thinking maybe just replace it again and this time weatherproofing the connector and wires all the way to where they connect with the rest of the harness
 

Mrjiggy

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What is the exact issue with the vehicle?
Did it catch fire?
Is it some local shop that is telling you this or the Ford dealer?

You should check is if any of the relays or wires in the fuse box melted.
Disconnect the battery and separate the top and bottom halves of the fuse box and look for melty things.

Another thing to check for is water intrusion on the passenger side footwell which can damage the Smart Junction Box behind the passenger kick plate.

wiper motor shorting out 3 times after being replaced each time. As far as I can tell the wiper motor is the only thing shorting. Only thing I can think of is a ground somewhere where there is not suppose to be. Relays and fuses are not blown for the wiper motor. I don't have a wiring diagram or pin out for the wiper motor connector so I have no idea what voltages im looking for with that motor
 
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thump_rrr

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Sorry may have oversimplified a bit. Pretty much the windshield wiper motor has shorted out 3 times and I replaced it 3 times. Took it to a mechanic shop and they told me the harness is bad. My thought was if the harness was bad and shorting out then something else would be messing up too, but the only thing shorting is the wiper motor. As far as the BCM idk how that could be bad because again the only thing constantly going out is the wiper motor. I replaced the wiper cowl because I thought that might be causing it, but immediately replacing the cowl and wiper motor it shorted out again after it rained. All relays and fuses for the wiper motor look fine as well. I was thinking maybe just replace it again and this time weatherproofing the connector and wires all the way to where they connect with the rest of the harness
https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Wipers and Washers.pdf

I believe that your problem is probably coming from the Smart Junction Box in the passenger footwell.

There have been many cars that had a leaky cowl and the water runs down into the SJB causing many problems.

As you can see one of the fuses comes from the SJB.

As you can see it’s a very simple circuit.

If it were me I would take apart the main fuse box to check for burnt spots.
Some people have had their radiator fan short out and melt the fuse box otherwise known as the BEC.

Look through this thread to see what others have had happen.
https://www.s197forum.com/threads/cooling-fan-high-speed-relay-bec-melted.106834/page-3
You only have 2 components in the system. The wiper motor and the wiper stalk on the column. At worst they can be powered directly from a battery with fuses to be tested before condemning the whole harness
 
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DieHarder

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Wow, I want to be your mechanic. Anyone who can get $4500 to replace an electrical harness for a bad wiper circuit is definitely in the right business.

To do this you'll need a Volt/Ohm Meter; a little knowledge and time.

Here's the appropriate section in the workshop manual. https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=467
Read all about operation and then start w/Pinpoint Test A: The Wipers are Inoperative https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=469&f=Wipers and Washers.pdf&p=9 (The reason to start here is you've burned out three motors so likely the problem is in that circuit. You're going to need to use both the electrical manual (for circuit/connector/pin locations) and these Pinpoint tests to trace each circuit end-to-end since it involves the wiper switch, SJB, BEC, relays, motor and associated wiring and connectors.

Using these steps you should be able to nail it down to a single circuit/section. Then trace that circuit and check all components (including the wiring/pins/connectors) for proper voltages, grounds, shorts, corrosion and resistance. The worst case is a bad SJB. In my experience however it's just as often that wiring, connectors, corrosion, opens or shorts are the issue.

If you don't feel comfortable troubleshooting yourself any competent mechanic/technician should be able to narrow the issue down fairly quickly.

Moral of the story - get a second opinion when something doesn't make sense.
 

Mrjiggy

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https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Wipers and Washers.pdf

I believe that your problem is probably coming from the Smart Junction Box in the passenger footwell.

There have been many cars that had a leaky cowl and the water runs down into the SJB causing many problems.

As you can see one of the fuses comes from the SJB.

As you can see it’s a very simple circuit.

If it were me I would take apart the main fuse box to check for burnt spots.
Some people have had their radiator fan short out and melt the fuse box otherwise known as the BEC.

Look through this thread to see what others have had happen.
https://www.s197forum.com/threads/cooling-fan-high-speed-relay-bec-melted.106834/page-3
You only have 2 components in the system. The wiper motor and the wiper stalk on the column. At worst they can be powered directly from a battery with fuses to be tested before condemning the whole harness
Yup got the car back and the problem you just described is exactly what it looks like. J box is completely done on the bright side wires, connectors, and shielding look fine. So I'm looking at probably just replacing the J box. I've already replaced the wiper cowls is there anything else I could do to make sure this doesn't happen again? I'll be doing the job myself and maybe just cutting the shelding around the wires to make sure it didn't start corriding under the shielding.
 

DieHarder

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Highly recommend you do a little trouble shooting following the Pinpoint tests in the manual. You're going to feel pretty stupid if the problem if not the J box. Could be of course...but until you actually verify where and what the fault is you're only guessing; and spending more money if your guess is not the right one. If you're not comfortable troubleshooting or have the right equipment it'll be cheaper going to another a reputable shop for a diagnosis. Then fix whatever it is yourself.
 

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