Nitrous

Hey so i’m looking into nitrous on my 2006 3v. I’m considering the Vex wet system. I’m wondering what all I need besides the actual kit that’s around $700. Do I need a bottle heater? Do I need a bottle opener? If some of these things are not actually necessary, I’d rather not spend the money on it, if I should I will, but want it to be budget friendly. Also I was wondering what the process is of refilling the bottle of nitrous? thanks everyone

Depending on how much nitrous you're going to use you may need to upgrade your fuel delivery and injectors. There are different ways you can warm your bottle the heater is the easiest. When I used to run nitrous my buddies and I would get together and put all of our bottles in a water bath to warm then. Before that we used a torch (not ideal). Bottle opener if you are too lazy to reach and turn the knob. Just take the bottle to a speed shop and have them fill it.

Depending on the kit you may need a window switch or controller.

I would consider a bottle heater a necessity. With anything less than a full bottle, you will need to heat it up to get proper pressure. The remote bottle opener is a luxury that you will have to decide if it's worth the money. If you will only be spraying at the strip they're pretty much completely unnecessary but they are nice if you occasionally use the bottle on the street (in Mexico of course).
Bottle refills are available at most places that sell the systems. If you plan to use a lot of nitrous, it may be worth buying industrial cylinders and setting up to fill your own.

07 Boss said:

Depending on how much nitrous you're going to use you may need to upgrade your fuel delivery and injectors. There are different ways you can warm your bottle the heater is the easiest. When I used to run nitrous my buddies and I would get together and put all of our bottles in a water bath to warm then. Before that we used a torch (not ideal). Bottle opener if you are too lazy to reach and turn the knob. Just take the bottle to a speed shop and have them fill it.

Depending on the kit you may need a window switch or controller.

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Sweet thanks, might plan on getting a heater then. And if my bottle is in my trunk I’ll be fine to open the trunk and open it before my races right? And how much does it cost to refill the bottles at the speed shops? yes

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AHaze said:

I would consider a bottle heater a necessity. With anything less than a full bottle, you will need to heat it up to get proper pressure. The remote bottle opener is a luxury that you will have to decide if it's worth the money. If you will only be spraying at the strip they're pretty much completely unnecessary but they are nice if you occasionally use the bottle on the street (in Mexico of course).
Bottle refills are available at most places that sell the systems. If you plan to use a lot of nitrous, it may be worth buying industrial cylinders and setting up to fill your own.

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Thanks for your input, and yeah all my races are street races, in mexico haha, so I may look into an opener, not sure. Is it something I can add later if I decide I want it after a couple months?

I had the Zex on my 2006. Don't trust the Zex NMU to be accurate on whether you are at wide open throttle, get a window switch. I had it armed one night at Grand Bend and was bringing the RPM up for launch. The Zex NMU decided that just shy of 2,000 RPM was WOT and fired off.

Take your pick from these:

https://www.summitracing.com/search...year/2006/make/ford/model/mustang/submodel/gt

Since your engine's internally stock, I suggest you go for this one and start with the 100hp jet:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zex-82242

Consider a bottle heater essential and unless you live near the Southern border, I don't think you'll be street racing in "Mexico".

jacobkerner said:

Thanks for your input, and yeah all my races are street races, in mexico haha, so I may look into an opener, not sure. Is it something I can add later if I decide I want it after a couple months?

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Yeah, the remote bottle opener can be added at any time.

JimC said:

I had the Zex on my 2006. Don't trust the Zex NMU to be accurate on whether you are at wide open throttle, get a window switch. I had it armed one night at Grand Bend and was bringing the RPM up for launch. The Zex NMU decided that just shy of 2,000 RPM was WOT and fired off.

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Yeah I was planning on getting a window switch, forgot to mention that, thanks

Out of curiosity, since I'm considering to do the the same, with 75 or 100 jet, are colder spark plugs required?

Guys, before you consider bottle heaters, bottle openers, window switches and whatnot, invest that money in your fuel system. All it takes is one lean pull and you are fucked. The stock fuel system does not have a lot of extra bandwidth. Nitrous is the most fuel hungry power adder.

Would a Walbro 400LPH fuel pump and Ford Racing 24 lb injectors be sufficient for 100 shot? I know I could email Lito, as he is the one that has tuned my car, but just curious if the abovebe ok...(08 Bullitt full bolt on's- long tubes/off road x with Ford racing cams)

2526Bullitt said:

Would a Walbro 400LPH fuel pump and Ford Racing 24 lb injectors be sufficient for 100 shot? I know I could email Lito, as he is the one that has tuned my car, but just curious if the abovebe ok...(08 Bullitt full bolt on's- long tubes/off road x with Ford racing cams)

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The pump will likely be fine and if you run a wet nitrous system you'll be fine with those injectors. If you want to run a dry system, I'd guess you'll need at least 30 lb. injectors though. 24s are stock on the 3V cars.
Edit: By "dry", I'm referring to the systems that spray nitrous through a single nozzle and add fuel through the injectors, not a "fogger" system.

2526Bullitt said:

Would a Walbro 400LPH fuel pump and Ford Racing 24 lb injectors be sufficient for 100 shot? I know I could email Lito, as he is the one that has tuned my car, but just curious if the abovebe ok...(08 Bullitt full bolt on's- long tubes/off road x with Ford racing cams)

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Upgrading the pump may or may not be necessary with just a 100 shot. I would do the math and figure out your fuel needs and estimate pump duty cycle. You should not exceed 80% capacity. If you are getting a wet system there is no need to upgrade injectors. If it is jetted properly you should need minimal adjustment from your injectors.

By running a single 10 ga wire, directly from battery terminal..to trunk, you can reduce the FPDC by 10-15%, due to the lower Voltage drop.

In case anyone is wondering, the stock 3V pump flows a maximum of 148LPH (240lb/hr) so you're going to max out the stock 24lb/hr injectors (combined flow 192lb/hr) way before you max out the pump.
The stock 3V connecting rods are probably on borrowed time on anything over 450rwtq (~510lbft at crank) though there are exceptions. Since a stock 3V was rated at 320lbft, that gives you ~190lbft of "growing space". That would allow you to use up to a 125hp shot of nitrous and have it kick in at 3500rpm (+188lbft torque at crank) provided you have sufficient fuel. The question then is how much fuel is enough?
The stock injectors aren't going to cut it for 425hp (300hp motor + 125hp nitrous shot), and even 30lb injectors would only flow the same combined 240lb/hr of the stock fuel pump, so they'd be no good to you either as the stock pump would be virtually maxed out at that HP level on forced induction. A set of 39lb injectors plus a 400LPH pump would certainly provide enough fuel for up to a 125 shot (~425hp/510lbft crank or ~375rwhp/450rwtq) and make the stock connecting rods the limiting factor.
When running nitrous, it's far better to have too much fuel than too little 'cause the extra fuel will cool the pistons, whereas running lean will quickly cause catastrophic engine damage. An AFR of 11.5-12.0 is fine at that HP level.

Dino Dino Bambino said:

In case anyone is wondering, the stock 3V pump flows a maximum of 148LPH (240lb/hr) so you're going to max out the stock 24lb/hr injectors (combined flow 192lb/hr) way before you max out the pump.
The stock 3V connecting rods are probably on borrowed time on anything over 450rwtq (~510lbft at crank) though there are exceptions. Since a stock 3V was rated at 320lbft, that gives you ~190lbft of "growing space". That would allow you to use up to a 125hp shot of nitrous and have it kick in at 3500rpm (+188lbft torque at crank) provided you have sufficient fuel. The question then is how much fuel is enough?
The stock injectors aren't going to cut it for 425hp (300hp motor + 125hp nitrous shot), and even 30lb injectors would only flow the same combined 240lb/hr of the stock fuel pump, so they'd be no good to you either as the stock pump would be virtually maxed out at that HP level on forced induction. A set of 39lb injectors plus a 400LPH pump would certainly provide enough fuel for up to a 125 shot (~425hp/510lbft crank or ~375rwhp/450rwtq) and make the stock connecting rods the limiting factor.
When running nitrous, it's far better to have too much fuel than too little 'cause the extra fuel will cool the pistons, whereas running lean will quickly cause catastrophic engine damage. An AFR of 11.5-12.0 is fine at that HP level.

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I think he said in his original post he was installing a wet system. A wet system will have its own fuel jets. The extra fuel is not supplied from the cars injectors so larger injectors are not necessary. Fuel pump capacity may have to be increased though.

07 Boss said:

I think he said in his original post he was installing a wet system. A wet system will have its own fuel jets. The extra fuel is not supplied from the cars injectors so larger injectors are not necessary. Fuel pump capacity may have to be increased though.

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That's correct. A dry system would require an injector upgrade but with a wet system, he could keep the stock injectors and avoid the need to recalibrate the ECU tune for bigger injectors.
Definitely need more fuel pump capacity even if it's just a boost-a-pump.

I just put a zex kit on my 08 3v. I got a set of colder plugs off American muscle a pro nitrous heater kit off eBay a cabin gauge just so I can monitor pressure from inside the car. An msd window switch and the zex purge kit. At the minimum I’d get the plugs and window switch you will need some kind of gauge cuz the kit doesn’t come with one. You can get a cheap one that goes on the bottle if you want one for the dash that’s going to run you a little better than $100. Everyone talks about how cheap nitrous is but with what I have in mine I’m halfway to a supercharger kit. Got the kit for $680 and with the bottle heater kit $150 gauge $110 plugs $100 purge kit $150 and I went ahead with a wideband you don’t need which was $200 and I got an sct x4 handheld which you don’t need as long as you don’t go over 75 shot. But anything over 75hp you’d need something to pull timing to be safe. As long as you have a factory fuel pump and not an autozone O’Reilys special you will be good on fuel easily up to 100 shot. Like mentioned above a wet system doesn’t rely on injectors to supply fuel so injectors are fine. The zex system has a built in safety that’ll cut the nitrous off if fuel pressure drops off. I’d def go with zex over the others. It definitely seems the safest for a first time user. I installed mine in about 8 hours but I was really taking my time and pretty picky how I run all my lines and wires. Wiring is the pain mounting the bottle lines and nitrous box are easy.