Let's talk headers

ghunt81

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That's where the swivel head gear wrenches are awesome. They fit into so many spots where you just can't get a ratchet. I did the majority of the header bolts with those.

I will say, the top nut on the passenger side motor mount is really difficult to reinstall and tighten down after installing JBA's, not sure about other headers. You basically have to get a box wrench in there and tighten it as best you can because you can't reach it with anything else except a crow's foot.
 

kstall

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So flex head wrenches and a crow's foot? Lol I'm gonna need a bigger tool box by the time all these mods are finished. Embarrassingly, I've never known what a crows' foot is used for.

And I figured while I'm at it, might as well get a set of stubby flex heads too. I mean you never know when you're gonna need it right lol
 

MasterofDisaster

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pan rail at the front
Concur. When I installed shorties, I screwed together two 2x8s and used them between the back and the pan rail.

If you try removing any of the manifold or exhaust pipe bolts or nuts with anything other than a 6-point socket, you're a fool. Even good 12-point sockets round off a high percentage of these fasteners.

Another tool I found handy was an oscillating tool. I put a mild ScotchBrite pad on it, and it worked great for removing old gasket material. Permatex gasket remover did precisely nothing.

Definitely get a good O2 sensor socket as they can be hard to remove. Buy some anti-seize for the sensor that is compatible with your sensors and cats.
 

Juice

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Think about using Stage-8 header bolts to the heads. Header nuts/bolts are notorious for backing out and a pain to keep after. I used them on my GT500 headers 2-3 years ago and have not had to touch them.
And that right there is the reason I reused all but one OEM header studs.
As for spending a fortune on Stage8 locking fasteners, I am too cheap. Simple lock washers worked on my 91. ;)
 

ghunt81

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So flex head wrenches and a crow's foot? Lol I'm gonna need a bigger tool box by the time all these mods are finished. Embarrassingly, I've never known what a crows' foot is used for.

And I figured while I'm at it, might as well get a set of stubby flex heads too. I mean you never know when you're gonna need it right lol


Honestly I bought a set of crow's feet and have yet to actually use them. Very difficult to get much torque on a bolt with those.

But, I do have regular, stubby and flex head gear wrenches in both standard and metric. Those things are a godsend. Definitely pick up that socket adapter I mentioned to, you can turn stubby gear wrenches into stubby ratchets!

Also Stage 8's are not that much. My only complaint about them is they only give you the exact number of long tabs and clips that you need meaning if you lose one you're SOL. I had no interest in reusing the stock studs and with some headers they will hit the primaries or be so close they are difficult to get a nut on.
 

kstall

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What about arp bolts? Those in the same line as stage 8?
 

ghunt81

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ARP's are just a standard header bolt. If you're shelling out the money get something locking.
 

Rich Grundza

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Afternoon guys, I thought I'd throw out a topic for advice and ideas on headers. After talking with my son on the TB/manifold thread I posted earlier, I think we have decided to keep the stock tb/manny for now. He does want to L/T's for sure though. I think he has decided on these here:
https://americanracingheaders.com/c...-3v-2005-2010-long-system?variant=29943917124

So for those of you who have done this yourself, as that's how we are leaning now, how bad of a job was it? What are the must have tools we would need to have on hand? Is there anything you learned along the way that made things easier? Also is it possible to do a full exhaust and not have to weld anything? Say for instance, can we get a cat-back system to replace the existing mufflers if we don't have cats? Or would that require an axle back? The systems he wants can be ordered without cats and he doesn't have them now. My thinking is if we are going to tackle another project then do it all, front to back, and replace the existing stuff.

I know these may be silly questions for you seasoned vets but we enjoyed the cam install and another father/son project sounds good to us, so I'm sure I will be asking a ton of questions lol. Thanks in advance
 

Rich Grundza

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OK, did the kooks long tubes last year on a 2013. You will have to drop the k member. I purchase an otc engine support (200 bucs on amazon) and two lifting brackets from EBAY. Did it on jack stands in the front supporting the car on pinch welds with harbor freight pads on the jack stands. Rear was up on ramps. The beauty of the support bar is that you can move the engine around and it really makes tightening bolts initially extremely easy. When you drop the k member, I had to replace both tie rod ends as the spun once I went to tighten the old ones. 40 bucs on amazon for 2 moog. With the kooks 1&7/8 in I could use the drop motor mounts, one of the tubes is an 1/8 in off the K member and there is very little clearance for the steering shaft.
 

crjackson

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With the kooks 1&7/8 in I could use the drop motor mounts, one of the tubes is an 1/8 in off the K member and there is very little clearance for the steering shaft.

So how far were you able to drop. I’m considering dropping mine as well, but I have the 1-3/4” Kooks on my 2014.
 

Monkeyporn

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Yeah I figured that would come in to play. Too bad I don't have a buddy with one

Look online in your area a lot of places have "Rent-a-lift". I found one in my town when I needed it to install my new GT500 Lower Control Arms.
 

kstall

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Look online in your area a lot of places have "Rent-a-lift". I found one in my town when I needed it to install my new GT500 Lower Control Arms.
Now that is something I haven't thought of. Thanks
 

EBABlacknChrome

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I did headers initially several years ago and have had them out and back in twice more after that (once for gaskets, once to swap to 304SS units). It's not a bad job, just time consuming and removing the stock stuff is by far the worst part of it. I didn't break any studs but had several that were very stubborn. I used Stage 8 locking bolts on mine on the reinstall. Also get good header gaskets like Percy's or the Ford Motorsport ones so you don't have to worry about them leaking. You also may have difficulty removing the dipstick tube...on my first install I ended up having to use vise grips to pull it out because the o-ring at the bottom was hard as a rock, and I mangled the tube so I had to order a new one. Make sure to put some anti-sieze or something on the o-ring on the new one when you reinstall. But, once the starter, steering shaft and dipstick tube are out and the engine is raised you're good to go on the install.

I made a wood block to fit on my jack and lift the engine by the crank pulley because I dented my oil pan a little on the initial install by raising it that way. Also gives you more room to work.

One tip, instead of unbolting the steering rack, you can unbolt the steering shaft at both ends and collapse it a bit where it comes through the firewall to pull out the steering shaft.

I kept my stock mounts and shimmed them up 1/4", haven't had any problems with them at all. The JBA's I installed also let you access the top starter mount from the top in the engine bay which makes it slightly easier to get at but that one is still a real pain in the ass because it's so close to the block.

BTW, another tool that helps with the ratcheting wrenches is the socket adapters for them. It's great it spots like the aforementioned top starter bolt that has very little clearance around it.
How the hell did you get the rear bottom two lock nuts on those stage 8's? Lol. I just pull my driver's side header to add a bung and BMR mounts. So decided I would do the stage 8's. I call them stage 6's sense I can't snap those last two.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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ghunt81

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How the hell did you get the rear bottom two lock nuts on those stage 8's? Lol. I just pull my driver's side header to add a bung and BMR mounts. So decided I would do the stage 8's. I call them stage 6's sense I can't snap those last two.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Long needle nose plliers I think? I honestly can't really remember. I'm sure I cussed a lot though
 

Oliver Vigil

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I installed headers with a helper in about 2 hours, I would block an afternoon for the job just in case. Extensions for the motor mounts, open ended and ratchetting wrenched are your best friend, as well as a nice swivel/universal socket. Nothing crazy I could recommend to make the process easier, just take your time and do your research. You can easily run the long tubes and a mid pipe, leaving the axel back completely up to you, just make sure you get a mid pipe with your long tubes.

My Notes
  • Make sure to grab some O2 extensions, I run SRs and found them to be good quality and easy to install (have a dremel ready to shave down the tabs from the SR's as instructed by the manufacturer).
  • American Muscles video on how to install BBK long tubes is a great reference to follow when installing any long tubes on this car.
  • I had clearance issues with my steering shaft, practically impossible to drive, due to old motor mounts. I now run BMR's poly motor mounts and the clearance is perfect.
  • Personal preference on the mid pipes, I love the sound of the H Pipe over the X. Do some research and make sure you find the sound you like best before purchase, it makes the car sound completely different. In my experience, H Pipes give the car a "throatier" sound over the X Pipes.
Good luck my man, those are some nice headers! Keep us posted.
 

Juice

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I installed headers with a helper in about 2 hours, I would block an afternoon for the job just in case. Extensions for the motor mounts, open ended and ratchetting wrenched are your best friend, as well as a nice swivel/universal socket. Nothing crazy I could recommend to make the process easier, just take your time and do your research. You can easily run the long tubes and a mid pipe, leaving the axel back completely up to you, just make sure you get a mid pipe with your long tubes.

My Notes
  • Make sure to grab some O2 extensions, I run SRs and found them to be good quality and easy to install (have a dremel ready to shave down the tabs from the SR's as instructed by the manufacturer).
  • American Muscles video on how to install BBK long tubes is a great reference to follow when installing any long tubes on this car.
  • I had clearance issues with my steering shaft, practically impossible to drive, due to old motor mounts. I now run BMR's poly motor mounts and the clearance is perfect.
  • Personal preference on the mid pipes, I love the sound of the H Pipe over the X. Do some research and make sure you find the sound you like best before purchase, it makes the car sound completely different. In my experience, H Pipes give the car a "throatier" sound over the X Pipes.
Good luck my man, those are some nice headers! Keep us posted.
2 hrs to install longtubes???? I could not replace stock for stock headers in 2 hrs. On a lift with helper and power tools.
 

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