IS the Coyote engine rebuildable or does the block need to be replaced?
- Thread starter Robert302
- Start date
I guess part of me just has trouble believing they can hold 600whp for long term. I know they are good for a little while but I also commute my car. I drive it every where so I want to be able to beat on it and know it's good. What I'm doing now is collecting information, I don't need an engine now and I want to know what to do when I do. Once Covid is over and my driving goes back to normal I can hit 200K in 5 years, I average about 20K miles a year. I figure at 200K I should be ready to replace major drive train components. Maybe not but I want to either have the cash I need for say a crate or have a core that I have started building. I have considered just getting the gen 2 long block that is an option I just don't know how long they hold up long term. I would really like 800whp but there isn't much of a point since 600 will get the car in the 10s and to go 9s the safety requirements go way up and I think you need an NHRA license. Power is like a drug and it's addicting I am amazed at what these coyotes do in stock form hell the stock gen 1 heads the worst ones flow better than bad ass small block chevy heads I've used. 10K for a crate engine is a lot of money but doable if I plan and save in advance, I don't want to get to the point where I need an engine and not know what to do so that is why I'm asking now.
I thought I would also clarify my miles as well, I am a defense contractor who deploys overseas, I bought the car new in 2013, from 2013 to 2016 I was gone half of the year, in 2017 I put the supercharger on the car it had 52K miles, only reason I remember that. I was gone from September 2019 until February 2020 and I managed to have 100K by January when I put the new clutch in. The car has 500whp with the roush phase 1 supercharger with roush tune, I didn't go more aggressive because I didn't want to blow it up or break a trans. When I have more miles on it in a few years I wouldn't mind replacing the trans or engine but I know a core can take a bit to find and they want big money for a used coyote engine.
If it were me and still into such things, I would get one of those fresh blocks for about $1000 and a complete coyote with a bad cylinder sitting in the mud for about $1000 and go from there. Mix and match with new and old parts.
The cogote was designed to last a long time under racing conditions. Daily commuting is nothing on wear. If you drove a 5.0 and never revved past 3k, maintained regularly, it will outlast the owner. Ford started with a clean sheet designing it. The only thing it shares with the modular v8 family of engines is the "footprint" (bell housing pattern and motor mount location).
And I will "test" this durability! lol
Ps: a crappy tune will break a built engine the same as a stock one.
And I will "test" this durability! lol
Ps: a crappy tune will break a built engine the same as a stock one.
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When I commute I drive on 2 lane roads and pass 3 cars at a time revving to redline almost daily, and I run it down the 1/4 mile. Soon I'm going to be able to run it with slicks and front runners and do some 4,000 RPM launches. Long story short I floor it every time I get in it, that's what I bought it for.
Than spend time and money with a good tuner more than anything.
Ps: "floor it every chance you get...." with a blown coyote? Make a lot of highway fund donations?
It has the roush tune in it for now on the phase 1 kit, living in California and smog is one thing I have to deal with also the tune is really conservative I chose that for a reason with the stock bottom end and oil pump gears. I will have to figure out how to get arround smog when I do add more. Anything without an EO number is illegal even a custom tune but that is a road block for another day, they may not be able to tell if the tune is custom, what I would like is the gen 2 heads with my kit make 670 smog legal flywheel hp but that set up is not legal in my car go figure. I think with a custom tune I can run the gen 2 heads and the phase 1 kit and make the power I want and not worry about the engine blowing up. My ideal build would be forged rods and pistons, stock crank, with gen 2 heads, and stock cams. I would like to spin the engine faster to help on power while not sacrificing the emissions side but I would like the bottom end to be up for it. If I were smarter I would just leave the car alone, enjoy it till it blows then replace it with a reman long block but that's not me. And yes through gas taxes I make a lot of donations to the highway fund, no tickets and I will not admit to breaking any posted speed limits on line.
MrAwesome987
forum member
20k miles a year? I'd just get a daily to avoid all the wear on the fun car...
From what I gather, it will become next to impossible to get around smog with a custom tune in the near future. Not just CA. Unless the tuning products stop renaming the OS. Smog check, the obd2 scan, can be setup to read the OS ID. Once that happens, non stock = fail.
I believe it's possible if it has stock cats, and all monitors turned on but I don't know what they look for. What I want it is possible to have a clean car that is essentially a gen 2 car in an S197 body but I don't know. I may get a spare ECU and just get that one tuned and keep the original with the roush flash but to do that I would need to stick with gen 1 heads. I think more RPM would get me where I want to go to and it would technically be smog legal but not because the tune doesn't say what it should. But to turn more RPM I would want a built short block hence the thread started.
As I understand it when it comes to engine swaps and emissions, you must comply with BODY year emissions. So, putting an entire gen 2 setup, including pcm will meet and exceed the gen 1 emission standards. (I doubt there is any difference BTW). But then you will have to be inspected as an engine swapped car.
Not sure if thats any help.
I've thought about it but it's just too much fun driving everyday I actually look forward to driving it vs like a Toyota Camry.
MrAwesome987
forum member
I wouldn't have suggested a camry lol I bought a Miata a few months ago to use as a daily. Its still fun (yeah, its slow, big deal), but it saves the mustang from getting a ton of miles and needless wear and tear.
What I don't know is if roush would sell me just the tune for the gen 2 car or if I would have to pay the $7,000 for the kit. I don't think there is any difference other than ECU and wiring harness. What they want you to do is sell the old car and buy the new one.
OX1
forum member
Roush told me a month ago, they will tune my 14 for the Phs 1 kit for $400 (have to ship them processor). So they will do a tune after the fact. Not sure if they will do different model year tune though.
That does seem like a small price to pay to pass smog. I am curious how the roush tune would run under light load with gen 2 heads, I think it will be fine, fine as in good enough for smog. I know that when you add airflow it only really leans out under load, light throttle cruising should be fine, I learned this dealing with my ls swap and driving it to the tuner after adding ported heads and bigger cam. I swapped the larger injectors in the parking lot after I arrived and noticed the thing would hardly run. I really like the phase 1 kit, I like the sealed air box especially for daily driving and rain storms.
A Miata, I can't do that, I have always wanted to V8 swap a Miata and I fear if I get one I will go through with it lol.
OX1
forum member
What I haven't figured out yet is if you can save Roush tune after smog and put it back later. Some say yes, some say no. Some say 2015+ started encryption, so does that mean before that you are OK?? But even $200 per year (assuming smog every 2 years), is not that bad a price to pay, but that assumes you can get your processor tuned by Roush every 2 years, forever!!
I'm not even sure NJ is checking tunes yet (tune version, assuming all smog stuff in and monitors good, which I have). Buddy just went through with self done HP tuners on an Escalade. They might be only checking certain cars like mustangs, or they may not even have the equipment to do it yet, like Ca. does?
I do know that the roush encrypts the tune for 2014, what I don't know is will a custom tune pass if it has all the stuff turned on. The only reason it's technically not legal is it doesn't have the EO number. I am tempted to try a custom tune and see what happens, I should be due for smog this year or next, I bought the car in 2013 not sure if they count 8 years from purchase or model year. I hate that I have to deal with this, I'm not asking to go catless without down stream 02s, everything will work for emissions just have more power what's wrong with that lol. The only legal way to go 10s in California is to spend a lot of money on a 100K car or get a 15 to 17 for 30K, spend 7500 on the blower that is smog legal and your good. I could do all that with my car for less than 10K including built engine and it would be clean.
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