What have you done to your mustang today?

Also check your barb connections at the intake manifold and air inlet tube for any oil residue. If both connections are dry? then your good to go.

Cradle and EPAS replacement today. Reman part (EPAS) fucked me again. And the only option is reman. Except for the Ford racing rack, that has NO warranty. Sold As-is and not legal for street use. So, in goes the Napa rack. This will be the 3rd time I had to fuck with the power steering on this car.
1 Pump failed at the track.
2 New pump AND rack failed at the track. Installed EPAS for pump failure (also frees up some HP).
3 EPAS binding on right turns, rack is moaning on right turns.
I'm thinking I should have gone manual steering....lol

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Decided to check my driver's side catch can since I installed it some 4000km ago. There was about 40cc of oil in it or roughly 10cc per 1000km. Proof that my $25 Chinese eBay catch can with Scotch Brite scouring pad as a filter medium really does work (no need to spend over $100 to buy one). Much better than having 40cc of oil coating the inside of the intake manifold and the back of the intake valves that's for sure! The CMCVs would have been coated too if I hadn't already deleted them seven years ago.
My engine has 94k miles and the dipstick oil level hardly moves over a 5000 mile oil change interval (full synthetic).

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I did something similar. I used a prefilter material from my aquarium inside the catch can. Works great.

Replaced this ridiculous, bulky, difficult to get into the tank add-a-pump setup that came with my Vortech kit:
View media item 8603with a single 400 LPH Walbro in the stock hat:
View media item 8604This required some clearancing of the plastic part of the stock hat but if I interpreted the specs properly, it should move roughly the same volume of fuel at lower amperage. The Vortech setup was running way too close to 100% duty cycle when I was datalogging for the tune and I actually caught the fuel pressure dropping a few PSI one exceptionally cool day. Hopefully this gives me a bit of wiggle room until I can get my battery relocation / pump wiring upgrade done.

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Decided to check my driver's side catch can since I installed it some 4000km ago. There was about 40cc of oil in it or roughly 10cc per 1000km. Proof that my $25 Chinese eBay catch can with Scotch Brite scouring pad as a filter medium really does work (no need to spend over $100 to buy one). Much better than having 40cc of oil coating the inside of the intake manifold and the back of the intake valves that's for sure! The CMCVs would have been coated too if I hadn't already deleted them seven years ago.
My engine has 94k miles and the dipstick oil level hardly moves over a 5000 mile oil change interval (full synthetic).

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When I did that to a little JLT catch can I still had oil residue migrating through the hoses into the manifold.

Midlife Crises said:

When I did that to a little JLT catch can I still had oil residue migrating through the hoses into the manifold.

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I started out with the JLT catch can and ran across the same issues. The JLT filtering design was horrible, there was no actual meshing nor any type of disk filaments to prevent oil residue from passing through the hoses and into the manifold. The filter design consisted of nothing more than just a small piece of window screen used as a filament.

Since upgrading to the UPR 4-chamber catch can, no oil residue has passed through the hoses nor into the intake manifold whatsoever.

Ordered my inner/outer tie rods. Control arms tamed my wheel shake but it’s still there from 55-70mph so hopefully the tie rods eliminate the rest.

Racer47 said:

Thats not true at all. I'm running 315s on 11s up front and 335s on 12s in the back and they fit inside the fenders.

I'm not a fan of stretched tires with the wheels sticking out but thats a style thing. I'm a fan of performance.

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I'd love to see more pics if you got'm.

Installed a new stock thermostat.
The lower-temp unit started popping P0128 codes toward the end of last year, still happening this spring, decided to say good bye to it.

Gabe said:

Installed a new stock thermostat.
The lower-temp unit started popping P0128 codes toward the end of last year, still happening this spring, decided to say good bye to it.

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That wrap is pretty cool. Where did you get it?

Midlife Crises said:

That wrap is pretty cool. Where did you get it?

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Thanks. It's hydrodip. Done at a local small shop in Southern NH

Officially got the car out of the garage today so I could drive it tomorrow.

So back when I did plugs about 3-4 years ago I installed E3's as they were the cheapest 1-piece plug I could find and I figured, why not? I've noticed the last couple years that at high RPM's I was getting this weird feeling like it was stuttering a little, was wracking my brain trying to think of what could be causing it and while I was working on doing the other repairs I had this spring I thought- I bet it's the plugs. Swapped those out for Autolite's so I'm hoping that fixes it, haven't had it out to really hammer on it yet to find out.

Sure feels good to drive the car again though, God I missed that thing.

E3s suck. Its a marketing gimmick. All that extra ground strap does is impede the growth of the fuel burning ball. You want minimal ground strap not a ton extra.

Racer47 said:

E3s suck. Its a marketing gimmick. All that extra ground strap does is impede the growth of the fuel burning ball. You want minimal ground strap not a ton extra.

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Brisk also makes a 1 piece plug solution for the older Mustangs that used a 2 piece plug. You are correct though, the E3 is a marketing gimmick.

IMO, for all the hassle of changing out 8 x plugs, why mess with E3's..just to save a few bucks. He has saved..nothing. Now they have to come out....again.... to be replaced by the...'real deal'.

So the total cost is now 1 set of E3's, plus 1 set of autolites / brisks.... + 2 X labor. He just lost it right there. Cheaper to use the correct plug the 1st time around.

Took the car out for a 4-hour drive yesterday. Was nice to stretch its legs.
Got it OBD-ready too, since I still need to get a sticker this month

Put the coverlay door panel inserts on. One last night and the other today.


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Moved it to get to the jetskis. lol

Rinsed the pollen off of it.
It's gray again.

Laga said:

I did something similar. I used a prefilter material from my aquarium inside the catch can. Works great.

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I pulled the ADD W-1 catch can off my car & replaced it w\ another similar type catch can but it uses SS mesh filtering (looks like a Brillo pad) contained inside of a removeable threaded double baffle design on the inlet side of the can to improve oil vapor collection\removal thru the double baffle chamber w\ the dipstick protruding thru the outlet port into the can. I like this setup as now since the dipstick is located in the outlet port, if any oil vapor is getting thru the SS meshed double baffle it can be seen collecting on the upper part of the dipstick along w\ any collected liquid oil level on the lower end. The ADD W-1 catch can I was using prior was using baffling only, which while it did show to be working it also showed that it wasn't perfect & due to the baffling design in it wasn't conducive to adding enough SS mesh to my liking to help improve it so I replaced it.

Been in service now for 2 weeks....so far the dipstick shaft is bone dry thus the intake manifold.

Pentalab said:

So the total cost is now 1 set of E3's, plus 1 set of autolites / brisks.... + 2 X labor. He just lost it right there. Cheaper to use the correct plug the 1st time around.

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The E3's had a rebate going when I bought them and were super cheap. Plus they were in the car for 6 years so, good enough. Also no labor since I did them myself