Thank you. I ended up figuring it out. I'll post what I did so it will help others in the future.
Inertia wore: (05-09) WHITE wire coming off of the FPDM. Splice in a wire and run it to remote pump 1. Connect your HOBS switch and twist one wire off of the HOBS harness to the wire going to remote pump 1 and SOLDER them then tighten the screw. Next, run the other wire to remote pump 2. (Polarity does not matter here just choose any wire to go to remote pump 1 and pump 2)
Next, with your fore fuel hat and pumps, there is one wire on the bottom side and two wires on the top side not connected to anything. These wires are for your level sender. Polarity does NOT matter wire any wire to the single wire at the bottom of the fore hat, then take your other wire and crimp on an eyelet and put one of the screws through it that holds the level sender mount.
Next with your fore hat installed and level sender wired, look for the two thinnest wires coming off of the stock fuel pump connector. They should both be green splice both wires to these two green wires. Again, polarity doesn't matter. The stock connector is no longer used so you can either not connect the wires off of the connector, or connect them. I connected mine all together just in case I ever need to use it in the future.
Next with the level sender wired, run the power wire through the firewall on either the passenger or driver side, doesn't matter there's plenty. I chose driver side since that is where my battery is. If your battery is in the trunk, then you have it easy. Once you have the wire ran through the firewall, plug it into your fc3. Now, connect your two fuel pump harnesses to the controller. If you have the same pumps for primary and secondary, it does not matter where you put them into the fc3 (or whatever controller you have) but if you have a dedicated pump that you only want to use during boost, make sure you wire it to PUMP 2. In my case, both of my pumps are the same so I just connected them to pump 1 and 2 without having to trace back at what pump its going to. Make SURE you tin ALL connections with solder before inserting into the fc3.
Once all of that is done, you'll want to connect the fuseable link IF YOUR BATTERY IS MOUNTED RIGHT NEXT TO THE FC3 IN THE TRUNK YOU CAN ELIMINATE THIS IF YOUD LIKE.
Now that the wiring is done, that is pretty much it. If you are running three pumps, the process is the same, just connect your third pump to pump 3. The hobs switch will automatically activate pump 3 when in boost since the remote 2 slot is for pumps 2 and 3.
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