T56 magnum xl swap question

Here are the measurements I got. I forgot to measure block mating surface before I put the bellhousing on so I measure from the block to the edge of the bell housing and subtracted the measurement from the edge of the bell housing to the highest point of the clutch fingers.

A:Fingers to edge of bellhousing
B:Block mating surface to edge of bellhousing
A 6-3/8s
B 2-13/16s
So 6-3/8s- 2-13/16s is 3.5625 or 3-9/16s
(6.375-2.8125=3.5625) hope my math is right here
So if I did this correctly, that should be the distance from the block mating surface to the clutch fingers (highest point)
(I'm not sure this part was necessary but I did it anyway pretty sure one of the numbers I got wrong or messed up but again this isn't necessary anyway)


Here is how I got the measurement for the bellhousing to clutch fingers
I took a straight edge and laid it flat on the outermost part of the bellhousing where it will mate to the transmission.
I then took a tape measurer and measured from the highest point of the clutch fingers to the straight edge and got 2-13/16s

Now here is how I got the measurement for the throwout bearing.
I took a straight edge and put it flat against the outermost part of the slave cylinder bearing
Then I took calipers (I trusted this to be very straight over a tape measurer) and ran them out to my straight edge. I measured from the edge of the t56 to the edge of the bearing and I got 3-9/16s
Edge of trans to edge of bearing
3-9/16s

3-9/16s is the measurement for the trans to edge of throwout bearing

2-13/16s is the measurement for bellhousing to fingers


So if I'm right
3-9/16 - 2-3/16= 3/4 preload?
(3.5625−2.8125=.75)

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I was somewhat confused by your A&B measurements in the beginning but the second set of measurements you provided make sense. It looks like you have 3/4” preload and that should work. I would install a 1/4” spacer if it was mine. So far I am very happy with the RXT with throwout set at 1” preload.

Midlife Crises said:

I was somewhat confused by your A&B measurements in the beginning but the second set of measurements you provided make sense. It looks like you have 3/4” preload and that should work. I would install a 1/4” spacer if it was mine. So far I am very happy with the RXT with throwout set at 1” preload.

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Yeah I was confused myself after I read it, hence why I said I think it was unnecessary. For some reason i thought I needed the measurement from the block to clutch fingers and since the bellhousing was on, I had to measure twice and subtract, etc. So 3/4 is good within spec?

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I did not have to use any shims at all. Clutch pedal feels fantastic. Again my clutch kit it 6918-07 using their included flywheel with a t56 magnum xl. Did not hookup the reverse solenoid harness yet. I think I will, but it isn't that hard to overcome the spring pressure. I will say, I was kinda worried at first because of how the trans is made it almost looks as if it's off-center in the hole but tremec has a side mounted attachment for the shifter. I verified this with a few others as well.

If I hook up the reverse lockout switch I think I can just hook it up to the brake switch. I'm pretty sure that sees 12v when applied so in theory, it would work.

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teeje said:

I did not have to use any shims at all. Clutch pedal feels fantastic. Again my clutch kit it 6918-07 using their included flywheel with a t56 magnum xl. Did not hookup the reverse solenoid harness yet. I think I will, but it isn't that hard to overcome the spring pressure. I will say, I was kinda worried at first because of how the trans is made it almost looks as if it's off-center in the hole but tremec has a side mounted attachment for the shifter. I verified this with a few others as well.

If I hook up the reverse lockout switch I think I can just hook it up to the brake switch. I'm pretty sure that sees 12v when applied so in theory, it would work.

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Brake switch works. But, you can imagine a time you might be on the brake while going from 6th to 5th .... making you vulnerable to accidentally hitting reverse.

1950StangJump$ said:

Brake switch works. But, you can imagine a time you might be on the brake while going from 6th to 5th .... making you vulnerable to accidentally hitting reverse.

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You're not wrong...I always thought I'd never hit the brake going to 6th but never thought about if I did by accident. I'm not sure where else I could wire it to, to be close as stock as possible

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I bought the interface that splices into the speed sensor .... allows you into reverse only when below 5 MPH. As stock as you can get.

1950StangJump$ said:

I bought the interface that splices into the speed sensor .... allows you into reverse only when below 5 MPH. As stock as you can get.

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Mine came with an entire harness. I'll get the number when I get home. Do you know the part number on that? My kit came complete. That may be it for all I know.

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teeje said:

Mine came with an entire harness. I'll get the number when I get home. Do you know the part number on that? My kit came complete. That may be it for all I know.

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It's an add-on piece, and an easy install. I can't remember which one exactly I used, but there are a number of them on the market.

One example:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Perform...Nd78OnEb7jcb_iBInO3M3HsxZwa_jy4BoCg-IQAvD_BwE

1950StangJump$ said:

It's an add-on piece, and an easy install. I can't remember which one exactly I used, but there are a number of them on the market.

One example:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Perform...Nd78OnEb7jcb_iBInO3M3HsxZwa_jy4BoCg-IQAvD_BwE

Click to expand...

It might be what I have but obviously not jegs branded. Definitely gonna take a look. I think it has some app you can use to change the speed in which it locks out too so it might be what I need.

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Looks like I have the Modern driveline harness with rpm lockout and Bluetooth module. So that's good.

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