P0330 After using Seacrap

Deathstang II

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You know.....I don't know why I torture myself sometimes lol. Remember using this stuff once on a '98 v6 Mustang and it destroyed the MAF. And yes, I am following the instructions one too many times to be sure.

Leave it to me wanting to experiment gimmicky products on my car and not learning my lesson, threw some Seafoam into the throttle body on my '05 4.6, all seemed well so it seemed. After can emptied, shut the car off waited 10 minutes to then start it back up and vape out my neighbors and I was met with P0330, a knock sensor code. Car has no noticeable performance loss, fuel mileage decrease, or knocking/ticking/pinging and yet, regardless if I clear the code it comes back almost immediate. Wondering if anyone else ran into a similar issue and if replacing the knock sensor solved the problem. Cheers!

Car is practically stock; MSD coil plugs, runs 89, 40 series flowmasters, bout it.
 
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Iceman62

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IMO...Seafoam's good stuff, when put in the tank (like it's formulated to work). Putting in a TB is only asking f/ trouble (as you now know). Guessing it threw the knock sensor out-of-wack so I'd probably swap this sensor & see if it corrects your woes.
 

86GT351

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It works great but can be temperamental. If the engine recognizes a change in the systems sometimes it will turn the light on. I can't see the knock sensor being bad. I would clear code and drive to see what happens.
 

Deathstang II

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IMO...Seafoam's good stuff, when put in the tank (like it's formulated to work). Putting in a TB is only asking f/ trouble (as you now know). Guessing it threw the knock sensor out-of-wack so I'd probably swap this sensor & see if it corrects your woes.
Quite...Not to mention the TB version of the shit is about 13 dollars a can and almost ran down the intake duct towards the MAF which would of ended up like my v6 situation all over again. As for the sensor, I was hoping I didn't have to spend close to 200 dollars to fix something silly; I don't own a torque wrench (though I really ought to given I'm always doing this sort of shit), thus why 200 lol. Been told if you over torque the sensor, it can still possibly throw a code. I don't usually worry about torque specs unless internal engine stuff IE head bolts, etc.

It works great but can be temperamental. If the engine recognizes a change in the systems sometimes it will turn the light on. I can't see the knock sensor being bad. I would clear code and drive to see what happens.

I have a few times now with no luck, decided to drive the car out to Galveston beach here in Texas (roughly 100ish miles round trip from my house) and code did not clear. Funny enough it throws no engine light as it first did, but the code is showing up on my X4.

Overall, I'm going to check my spark plugs and plugs themselves to see if maybe they got fouled from the treatment before diving into the sensor as I reeeeeeally can't be bothered to pull off the manifold in the dead of summer lol. And it just sucks that I have to pull off the manifold for the first time now, because I own a Ford Performance Intake for the damn thing, but due to funds, I can't put it on the car quite yet to pay for a decent dyno tune.
 

Deathstang II

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Welp....after doing one whole bank of plugs a wild hair up my ass told me to just check the sensor itself....lo and behold.....how the fuck does this even happen? Lol, I pick up the part tomorrow.

QcYGsoJ.jpg
 

Laga

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Seafoam was invented in the 1930 and first marketed in 1942. At that time, gasoline was mostly a naphtha based blend with an octane rating of around 70.

According to the MSDS, it contains < 95% hydrocarbon blend and <25% isopropyl alcohol.
This hydrocarbons blend is not identified because it is a trade secret. But it has been found to be a blend of kerosene and naphtha. Isopropyl alcohol is there to remove water.

80 years ago it worked great at cleaning up the shit gasoline of it time. It has no use in a modern engine. Especially an EFI engine.

So, unless your Mustang has a flat head Ford engine burning 80 year old gas, don’t use it.
 

GlassTop09

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Welp....after doing one whole bank of plugs a wild hair up my ass told me to just check the sensor itself....lo and behold.....how the fuck does this even happen? Lol, I pick up the part tomorrow.

QcYGsoJ.jpg
Yep, looks like your car was 1 of the few that the knock sensor wires laid against some hot metal part underneath (like that metal heater coolant return line), melted the insulation which exposed the wiring then corrosion did the rest........

While you're under there replacing the knock sensors check the wiring to the CHT sensor as well. They can get a little hot & blister the insulation as well if the wiring is coming into close contact/proximity to the cyl head.

FYI.......
 

Deathstang II

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Yep, looks like your car was 1 of the few that the knock sensor wires laid against some hot metal part underneath (like that metal heater coolant return line), melted the insulation which exposed the wiring then corrosion did the rest........

While you're under there replacing the knock sensors check the wiring to the CHT sensor as well. They can get a little hot & blister the insulation as well if the wiring is coming into close contact/proximity to the cyl head.

FYI.......

Finally had a look at them after pulling 'em off; appears they aren't original and have been replaced once before with bosch branded ones. For some odd reason the bosch ones are meant for the '10 4.6L's, and don't show up for a 2005 4.6L on many of these auto part stores......even though they're the same engine lol. Bosch ones are cheap, and I don't really feel like spending 100 dollars for a simple sensor. Ordered some Carquest ones for $75 dollars....still overpriced for a sensor if you ask me: Part # SBA3803

As for the CHT, the plastic sleeves were very brittle and crumbled apart to the touch. I have plastic sleeves, but need to go out and get some electrical tape. Otherwise the wiring for it looked fine.
 

Deathstang II

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Fixed the sensor! Car runs far better than it did. While the intake was off, decided to degrease the inside of the intake and charge plates. Car feels super responsive than it did before. Almost scares you in first gear lol.
 

Garrett brittain

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Fixed the sensor! Car runs far better than it did. While the intake was off, decided to degrease the inside of the intake and charge plates. Car feels super responsive than it did before. Almost scares you in first gear lol.

I probably need to do this with my 07. Sometimes my car pulls hard and other times it feels dead, I’m not sure if it’s my raggedy ass Bama tune or something else like my throttle body malfunctioning of the CMCV plates not working how they should
 

Garrett brittain

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Fixed the sensor! Car runs far better than it did. While the intake was off, decided to degrease the inside of the intake and charge plates. Car feels super responsive than it did before. Almost scares you in first gear lol.

I probably need to do this with my 07. Sometimes my car pulls hard and other times it feels dead, I’m not sure if it’s my raggedy ass Bama tune or something else like my throttle body malfunctioning or the CMCV plates not working how they should
 

Deathstang II

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I probably need to do this with my 07. Sometimes my car pulls hard and other times it feels dead, I’m not sure if it’s my raggedy ass Bama tune or something else like my throttle body malfunctioning of the CMCV plates not working how they should

Could be; I tore apart both TB and Intake and made sure there was very little carbon build up on any of it before reassembly. Though I keep hearing bama tunes are pretty shite, alls known I'd look there before cleaning. Revert it to stock if that's an option and test the car out.
 

Lime1Gt

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Fixed the sensor! Car runs far better than it did. While the intake was off, decided to degrease the inside of the intake and charge plates. Car feels super responsive than it did before. Almost scares you in first gear lol.

Well. at least you know the scanner wasn't lying and there was a problem needing attention.
 

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