AEM wideband better o2 sensor?

teeje

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Man go figure, I was just talking about this with someone else too. Gauge is not even 3 months old. This is my third one. For some unknown reason it got stuck in heat cycle today and when it finally gets out, it pegs full lean and rich and basically goes all over the place. I've tried my other gauge, same thing. Everything is wired to its own ground and power source (using an add a fuse, retains stock fuse and adds another for the gauge) just double checked everything and re did all of my connections to everything just to be sure nothing was back feeding and I have the same issue. I have the aem 30-0300x. I'm having another sent to me but Jesus christ, is there a better sensor to use?

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MrAwesome987

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I'm using an Autometer wideband. Haven't had a single problem out of it in over 18k miles of abuse.
 

DieHarder

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Odd, I use an AEM 30-4900. Has been rock solid since day 1 (over 2 yrs now). Where does it sit in the exhaust? With/without CATS?
 

teeje

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Odd, I use an AEM 30-4900. Has been rock solid since day 1 (over 2 yrs now). Where does it sit in the exhaust? With/without CATS?
Without cats. Have longtubes, 20 psi boost sensor at mid pipe

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DieHarder

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My understanding is the oxygen sensor mounts in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. In my car that meant after the CAT on the driver's side. I was concerned at first and asked Lito about it. He said no worries and it's been fine. I have a DOB setup.

Boost sensor at the midpipe, are you turbo'd? If so the oxygen sensor must be installed after the turbocharger, ideally 18” downstream from the turbo exhaust housing. NOTE: If the sensor is mounted before the turbocharger the pressure differential will affect the accuracy of the unit. For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted upstream of the catalytic converters and/or auxiliary air pumps.

BTW, up in Cleveland. Would love to see the carbon fiber work in person some time. Q: How do you pass smog without cats? For me that test comes up every two years. It's been no problem so far. Lito provided a smog tune that passes just fine.
 

teeje

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My understanding is the oxygen sensor mounts in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. In my car that meant after the CAT on the driver's side. I was concerned at first and asked Lito about it. He said no worries and it's been fine. I have a DOB setup.

Boost sensor at the midpipe, are you turbo'd? If so the oxygen sensor must be installed after the turbocharger, ideally 18” downstream from the turbo exhaust housing. NOTE: If the sensor is mounted before the turbocharger the pressure differential will affect the accuracy of the unit. For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted upstream of the catalytic converters and/or auxiliary air pumps.

BTW, up in Cleveland. Would love to see the carbon fiber work in person some time. Q: How do you pass smog without cats? For me that test comes up every two years. It's been no problem so far. Lito provided a smog tune that passes just fine.
We don't have smog here or e check or any of that haha. Also I'm supercharged I was just stating I run 20 psi of boost if it affects anything

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Midlife Crises

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I just installed an AEM Wideband also. It replaced a Glowshift meter the tuner said he didn’t like much. My sensor is mounted about 6” after the header collector and seems to work fine. Time will tell.
 

DieHarder

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Seems odd to be up here but not there... At 20 psi that's pushing it. Think I'm running about 8. Stock engine however. BTW, who built your engine? Cost?
 

teeje

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Seems odd to be up here but not there... At 20 psi that's pushing it. Think I'm running about 8. Stock engine however. BTW, who built your engine? Cost?
I sourced the parts through Joey Teats with Apocalypse performance and Todd warren for the cams. Manley forged 8 bolt crank, McLeod rxt, t56 magnum xl, molnar rods, je 9.5:1 Pistons all arp hardware including head studs, MLS gaskets, complete fore l2 fuel system, fic 1000 injectors. Basically built to the moon. I'm just giving you a good idea. She can handle it haha

As for cost who knows at this point. Probably around 10k

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teeje

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What power source have you all used? I have 12v switched power that turns off when cranking so the sensor cycles twice. I have gotten an entire new sensor and it failed within a week. I got sent another entire gauge and sensor and I'm going to just replace everything. Every gauge has its own ground and power. Maybe I need 12v power that stays on when cranking? I don't get it. What is ruining these sensors? It worked fine for a week...went to work it was fine. Left work started up it finished heat cycle and went to 4 dashes
 

teeje

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What power source have you all used? I have 12v switched power that turns off when cranking so the sensor cycles twice. I have gotten an entire new sensor and it failed within a week. I got sent another entire gauge and sensor and I'm going to just replace everything. Every gauge has its own ground and power. Maybe I need 12v power that stays on when cranking? I don't get it. What is ruining these sensors? It worked fine for a week...went to work it was fine. Left work started up it finished heat cycle and went to 4 dashes
 

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