Help me choose a suspension setup

jmustang

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Just completed my third track day on my stock suspension and alignment. Rolled onto the outside of the front tires hard, came within a few inches of the rim. So I need camber plates but figured I may as well go all out and replace the tired old soft shocks.

I like to do tons of research before pulling the trigger, and right now I’m feeling a little overwhelmed with my options. Originally I was planning on doing shocks and springs (maybe koni yellow and BMR springs), but was told by an instructor they wouldn’t hold up with my car and track use.

Keep in mind the setup needs to handle the extra weight of the convertible, supercharger and roll bar. Car is an 06 GT convertible. I don’t want to lower the front much, although the rear could come down a whole lot. Any advice on an ideal drop for handling purposes is appreciated. It is a weekend car I plan to track 1-2x a month.

Here are the options I’m considering. I’m also open to other suggestions as well.

Ground control coil overs :
https://groundcontrolstore.com/coll...ystem/products/2005-2014-mustang-complete-kit

Vorachlag:
https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...spension-kit-s197-mustang?variant=15149013319

Steeda (maybe use the GT500 kit?)
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-musta...5-8127-3.html#/filter:ss_ymm:Mustang$253E2006

Pedders:
https://www.steeda.com/pedders-ped-160052#/filter:ss_ymm:Mustang$253E2006

KW:
https://www.steeda.com/kw-suspensio...10230045.html#/filter:ss_ymm:Mustang$253E2006


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Norm Peterson

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Honestly, I think the following Steeda package would be a good fit for you, especially if you're going to be driving the car to and from the track and doing other street driving.

Steeda Mustang Sport Handling Package (555-2356)


Near as I can tell, the handling balance of that package isn't a whole lot different from what I've installed from pieces on my '08. And I was running up to twice a month (in the cooler months), most times as an Intermediate but also in the Advanced group with TNiA and with the Advanced/Instructor group at my home track's own events.


Let's just say I'm less than convinced that coilovers are an appropriate solution for any car that sees more than minimal street miles. Or that you need crazy-stiff spring rates to have a competent track day car. Save them for future trailered W2W or possibly Time Trial efforts.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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And here's my build thread

(39) S197 3V - A horse with no name, a build with no name Build Thread | The Mustang Forum for Track Enthusiasts - TrackMustangsOnline.com


The Cliff's Notes version for my current setup reads as follows:
Koni yellows

BMR Handling springs for the GT500 (260 lb/in front, 220 lb/in rear, somewhat firmer than those in the above-mentioned Steeda package). About 0.5" lowered up front. Only about 1/4" lower out back after shimming the rear springs to raise the ride height back up from over 1.1". I had run at closer to 0.6" rear lowering but raised it a second time for rear axle roll steer reasons.

Strano adjustable sta-bars (35/25)

UMI front sta-bar endlinks

About -2° camber

285/35-18 MPSS tires (Tire Rack) on 18x11 Forgestar wheels (Vorshlag)

OE PHB with DIY-stiffened bushings


FWIW, my best lap times were run when the MPSS tires were fresh . . . and that was when I was still running on the OE springs (all other modifications were present).


Norm
 

jmustang

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Honestly, I think the following Steeda package would be a good fit for you, especially if you're going to be driving the car to and from the track and doing other street driving.

Steeda Mustang Sport Handling Package (555-2356)


Near as I can tell, the handling balance of that package isn't a whole lot different from what I've installed from pieces on my '08. And I was running up to twice a month (in the cooler months), most times as an Intermediate but also in the Advanced group with TNiA and with the Advanced/Instructor group at my home track's own events.


Let's just say I'm less than convinced that coilovers are an appropriate solution for any car that sees more than minimal street miles. Or that you need crazy-stiff spring rates to have a competent track day car. Save them for future trailered W2W or possibly Time Trial efforts.


Norm

So coil overs are no good because it’s overkill? Or because it ruins the ride? They’re not much more expensive than going the shock and strut route.

Appreciate the input. Are you using CC plates?


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Norm Peterson

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So coil overs are no good because it’s overkill? Or because it ruins the ride? They’re not much more expensive than going the shock and strut route.

Appreciate the input. Are you using CC plates?
Inexpensive coilovers really aren't intended for tracking; they're more for bragging rights at car shows and for the 'stance crowd'. Good coilovers for tracking do NOT come cheap.

What I am saying is that a conventional big-spring and conventional dampers (which may or may not feature damping adjustability) are still well suited to moderate track efforts such as HPDE, where it's really more about the driver than his car.

I've consistently pulled over 1.3g laterally peak (and 1.2 or so sustained), on MPSS tires no less. Much past that and you need to be thinking about oil control inside your engine. Hint: at 1g lateral plus a couple of degrees of roll that you will be getting, oil would rather flow back up into the outboard valve or cam cover. Not down out of it. And the oil that's still in the sump will be plastered up against the outside of the pan at about a 45° surface angle (where's that pickup again???).


Yeah I did miss something - I'm running Steeda's HD strut mounts, which do feature a modest amount of camber adjustability. But I think my car might be a bit of a factory freak camber-wise. As delivered I was measuring -1.7° against Ford's preferred setting of -0.75-ish and -1.5° max negative. Couldn't get much more than what I have now without tracking down what seems to be limiting me to -2°.


Datalogged video of one of my better lap times at NJMP/Thunderbolt when still on its OE springs (really soft at about 130 or 140 lb/in). The car is just super easy to drive that hard.


Norm
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Id literally suggest anything BUT the Steeda kit. ;) It has low end twin tube junk dampers. As does the GC kit. As does the Pedders kit. As does the KW kit.

Seriously, 4 of these choices are all the same.

ONE option listed has proper monotube dampers. You know which one...

Call us at Vorshlag and we can explain what the advantages are of monotubes over twin tubes, and they are many. 972-422-7170.

i-gq4vQkr-L.jpg


BTW that mis spelling was epic! :D I mean, the correct spelling was right in the URL he linked underneath. Sometimes I think people are just trolling us with these word salads.

Cheers!
 

DieHarder

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Personally, I'd go with just upgrading springs/struts/shocks right now and get the rest as you go along. I opted for Roush springs/Bilstein struts/shocks and upgraded sway bars later. Excellent struts/shocks IMO> For me each upgrade yielded better feel and handling. If you're really going to go all out then go for a track worthy setup like Cortex. It's costly, but according to those who have it worth it.
 

tj@steeda

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Norm has some great feedback & you won't be disappointed in the Steeda units. Let me know if I can help assist in the process.

Even if you misspell Steeda - we'll still take care of you :)

Thank you!

TJ
 

Mach2burnout

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The rear springs in this may be a little light for a vert. Unless they put different springs especially for the convertibles. Mine came with 175# rear springs and were great for the coupe. However, I think they were a little light even for it. Be careful with these cars putting to stiff of a rear anti-sway bar as well. Also make sure that you are careful when replacing rear bushings, the rear end must be free to articulate or it will just spin like crazy off the corner.


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Norm Peterson

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The rear springs in this may be a little light for a vert. Unless they put different springs especially for the convertibles. Mine came with 175# rear springs and were great for the coupe. However, I think they were a little light even for it.
I imagine you could get Steeda to substitute either the 185# (Competition) or 195# (Boss 302) rear springs for the 175s and the 7/8" convertible bar #1020 for the 7/8" #1052 (the #1052 bar does not fit convertibles).


Be careful with these cars putting to stiff of a rear anti-sway bar as well. Also make sure that you are careful when replacing rear bushings, the rear end must be free to articulate or it will just spin like crazy off the corner.
Of course.

That said, OP's car is an '06, and the handling balance for a stock-ish power 4.6L car (or a 2011-up sixxer car) can probably be tuned just a little "looser" than would be appropriate for the 5.0L cars.


Norm
 
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Tman

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I have the Roush track kit on my car. I have been very happy with it handles the corners fantastic and still rides very smooth. When I want to get aggressive or take it to a track I have a Steeda Front and rear sway bar and a watts link I swap out to. Makes the car ride a bit firmer but it really sticks in the corners. The watts link is amazing at keeping the wheels planted out of a bumpy corner.
I am thinking about selling the Steeda sway bars and watts link because I’m thinking about selling my car if you’re interested let me know..


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