any help appreciated

mike Hall

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I have 2011 GT with edelbrock stage 2 supercharger, was running fine, but started ticking, one of the chain guides had broken, just at the bottom tip( yeah i was lucky on that) replaced with MMR billet and crank sprocket, now car will crank and run but will not accelerate much, you can ease out get up to speed set the cruise, all is fine, but when you give it gas, it just goes to spitting and popping, it also idles up and down, and will shut off esp with a/c on , any ideas? I'm wondering if car would even run if it was timed wrong, say if it was possible to time the phasers backwards , in other words putting the timing marks for the left side to the right side and the right side for the left, shop is at a loss and i'm wanting my car back , been gone toooo long , lol,, Thanks
 

DieHarder

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I have 2011 GT with edelbrock stage 2 supercharger, was running fine, but started ticking, one of the chain guides had broken, just at the bottom tip( yeah i was lucky on that) replaced with MMR billet and crank sprocket, now car will crank and run but will not accelerate much, you can ease out get up to speed set the cruise, all is fine, but when you give it gas, it just goes to spitting and popping, it also idles up and down, and will shut off esp with a/c on , any ideas? I'm wondering if car would even run if it was timed wrong, say if it was possible to time the phasers backwards , in other words putting the timing marks for the left side to the right side and the right side for the left, shop is at a loss and i'm wanting my car back , been gone toooo long , lol,, Thanks

"shop is at a loss" Suggest recommending the shop watch this:

 

DieHarder

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If it still won't run right after timing is checked/verified correct you (or the shop) will probably want to do some compression checks.... just to be sure there are no bent valves.
 

mike Hall

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150 on all cylinders, 5-20mobile 1 , never had to add oil between changes, no rattles or nocks , other than when the guide broke, starts right up,, then after it warms up is when the ideling up and down starts, idn?
 

Lime1Gt

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Recheck all the work involved looking for connectors that might not be locked in or the lock tabs are broken. Sometimes the weatherpac connector seals can interfere with reconnection. Blow air in the connector to remove any dirt and add the smallest amount of dielectric grease on the seal, then reconnect.
 

mike Hall

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they've done that , but are going to do it again, gonna try changing the cam phaser solenoids, it did have the rough idle b4 the timing tensioner issue, seems that is a symptom along with car not accelerating correctly, just a shot in the dark, car has 105,000 miles,, thanks
 

Frankief28

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Anybody know what are the best fuel injectors to get for gen one coyote? I have a few bolt ones nothing crazy just trying squeeze every once of power before I decide to go cams or super charger I have full exhaust with X pipe headers jlt intake and 2018 manifold last time I dyned it best run was 415 to wheels it’s also a auto so I was kinda happy with the numbers 74k on the engine
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Depends on a few things. If you stay N/A LU47's will cover almost all of it. Supercharger, id1300's if you want to run e85, id1000's for pump gas. It also depends on what injectors your tuner prefers.
 

mattjames

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Look at where the cam angles are at from bank to bank. That'll tell you if it's timed correctly. I went through this on my Coyote Fox and had a bank a tooth off, sucked.
 

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