13-14 GT 500 clutch master cylinder install.

Thanks for the bump, it helped but damn it was a major pita! I was sore for a couple days but itll all be worth it once I can drive it when the flood waters recede lol.

And to answer, trust me you will need to remove the pedal assembly. Its much easier to reach the bolt in the back.

Hi!
I have similar problems with my -06 Roush Stage 3.
I live in Finland and we do not have Mustang parts in Ford dealers, so can you tell me where i can bought that gt500 clutch master cylinder?

BruceH said:

It's not recommended by Tremec. They only recommend ATF. RP ATF is fine but they haven't verified that anything else (non api certified atf or regular manual trans fluid) will not degrade or delaminate the syncros.

Bottom line is that the manufacturers usually know what's best for their products despite internet information to the contrary.

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My guess is that it has something to do with the synchros being a plate type, like an automatic trans?
Re the high rpm lockout, I think there are several items at play here:
1. Hydraulic line swell (fixed by installation of braided line).
2. Master cylinder piston seal wear and resultant bleeding of pressure past the seal. This would be more apparent on a high-mile car that hasn't had the best maintenance.
3. The centrifugal engagement assist inherent in just about any pressure plate. Higher rpm makes the diaphragm fingers want to swing outward, away from center, which can increase the holding force and resist release. This is actually adjustable on many racing pressure plates.
Just tossing these out for consideration.

Mikko Karjalainen said:

Hi!
I have similar problems with my -06 Roush Stage 3.
I live in Finland and we do not have Mustang parts in Ford dealers, so can you tell me where i can bought that gt500 clutch master cylinder?

Click to expand...

The part number for the 13-14 GT500 clutch master cylinder is DR3Z7A543A.

https://www.google.com/search?q=DR3...KABAbABAsgBCMABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp