For street use, any PD blower has the advantage of....'the instant TQ hit'. On my 2010 GT auto, b4 retuning it, stopped at a red light, and foot on brake, it idled at 600 rpm. Hit the gas, and with oem 1500 rpm stall converter, it jumps asap, to 1500+ rpm, and max boost..asap. Off we go, burning up rear 305 mm MPSS tires in 1st gear. In normal operation, I get into it slower..and get into 2nd gear asap, then mash it, then it takes off like a mofo. With the new VMP tune, the idle is now 750 rpm, stopped, and foot on brake ( car in drive). But I only have 5.7 psi boost. With 10-15 psi boost, it may well be way over the top for street use.... and break traction in 2nd gear. I have an oem 3.31 rear gear + WL watts link + eaton tru trac, DSS-DS and jba LT's, catted H..and twin 62mm TB. Then the vmp 94 octane tune.
On my auto, 2nd gear is 14% lower than 2nd gear in a manual. My 3rd gear is 16.5% lower than 3rd gear in a manual. 4th gear is the same 1:1 ratio. With the manual, a 3.73 rear gear is needed to equal the 3.31 in the auto.... with both in 2nd gear. With the manual, a 3.90 rear gear is needed to equal the 3.31 in the auto.... when both in 3rd gear. Where I lose it is in 4th gear in the auto (1:1)...with the 3.31 rear gear. The folks with a manual..and either a 3.55 3.73 3.90 4.10 rear gear will pull harder in 4th gear.
I find the acceleration is more than ample for a street car. 0-60, 0-80, 0-100, 50-100, etc, comes very quickly. 0-60 is sub 4 secs.
I have never driven a centri (several here in town). With 8-15 psi max boost, and boost building up to the square of the rpm, a centri would probably be the ticket for higher boost applications...for street use. Then at least it's... 'controllable power'. IMO, no point in having globs of rwtq, if you can't control it. The last thing I want is some kinda..'light switch' effect. That's why I left the oem 3.31 rear gear intact..and also told vmp, not to mess with the throttle response.